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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag Neptune FAV6800AWQ |
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| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, BrntToast, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! | Page: 1 2   |
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| Maytag Neptune FAV6800AWQ | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Thu Jun 24th, 2010 10:00 pm |
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1st Post |
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meganmyers Grasshopper
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Have a 5 year old Maytag Neptune with bad bearings. Had a repairman look at it and was told it would cost between $600 and $700 to repair because you can't just buy the bearings; have to replace the entire drum system. Is this correct or is this guy trying to score $$$$?
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| Posted: Thu Jun 24th, 2010 10:52 pm |
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2nd Post |
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nickfixit Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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He's correct, you have to replace the outer tub assembly to get new bearings. My advice, buy a new machine. The Neptune TL was one of the worst appliances ever built by anyone. Junk it, and make the world a better place.
____________________ " Giving numerical data to Sears management is like giving a monkey a machine gun. No one knows for certain what will happen, but you can be sure of two things... It will be real messy, and only the monkey will be unharmed" |
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| Posted: Thu Jun 24th, 2010 11:02 pm |
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3rd Post |
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meganmyers Grasshopper
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Thanks for your opinion. I was afraid of that. I have read several complaints about that machine across the web.
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| Posted: Fri Jun 25th, 2010 12:45 am |
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4th Post |
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kdog Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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nickfixit wrote: He's correct, you have to replace the outer tub assembly to get new bearings. I second that opinion, they don't even work very well as boat anchors !
____________________ Can Ye spare some 'cutter me brutha ? http://web.me.com/zenzoidman/kdog/ |
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| Posted: Fri Jun 25th, 2010 04:48 pm |
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5th Post |
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dh1200s Grasshopper 
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“”He's correct, you have to replace the outer tub assembly to get new bearings. My advice, buy a new machine. The Neptune TL was one of the worst appliances ever built by anyone. Junk it, and make the world a better place.”” The repairman is wrong.......  I’m just going to add my comment as an owner I’m not a repair tech but I feel I have basic mechanical skills. I’m an Electronic Technician by training with 33 years in the TeleCom Ind.. I find the machine extremely easy to work on. I have replaced the Outer tub Bearings in a series 10 machine no big deal. With that change out I also replaced the Tub Seal, Tranny O-ring and just for the fun of it I replaced the upper 6002DU upper spinner bearing with a 6002RS and the caged SCE-910 bearing on the Spinner Assembly Clutch Pulley side. Again no big deal if you have basic skill sets and have a concept of pressing in bearing assemblies. Maytag went to and integrated Upper Outer Tub bearing (TW0207-2RS )in the later series machines that don’t use the Upper One-Way Roller Clutches bearing ring. I worked via the Web with a Series 15 owner that replaced that bearing with an off the shelf 6207 2RS bearings and a couple of shims to take up for the difference of bearing thickness. I have the link if anyone is interested. I used two 6207 2RS for the Outer tub bearing replacement in my series 10 machine. Your series is the first two digits of your Serial Number of the machine. You can run into issues with the removal of the six spinner bolts. After PB Blaster soaking I had one corroded in and snapped it off. I took it to a local machine shop and had a Stainless Steel Heilcoil insert put in. I have worked via internet with three other owners who had no issues removing the Inner Tub. I did buy the Maytag Locking spinner nut ring and spanner wrench for about $17 delivered to the house. I ended up using a $8 1.75” socket from Tractor Supply and impacted off the 1.75” Spinner nut. I did use the Maytag Spinner Nut locking ring and spanner for reassembly. If your machine doesn’t use the Upper One-Way Roller Clutch bearing ring you will have to lock the Spinner Assembly from turning as see on page 45 of the Service Manual. I believe my cost for parts was around $80. You can price out on this site for the Tub Seal and Tranny O-Ring. I Google for best price on the bearings. The Helicoil SS insert was $35 local Amish machine shop here in Southeast PA. I feel it comes down to basic mech. skill sets and your tolerance for down time. You don’t need to replace the Outer Tub for any of the series 10 thru 17 FAV6800A/FAV9800A machines just punch out and press in the Outer Tub bearings. If you have basic mechanical skill sets I feel anyone can do this. If you are within reasonable driving distance of Honey Brook Pa. 19344 I will offer you $25 for your Boat Anchor. If I can figure out how to post multiple Pics in this thread I will add Pics of my Series 10 Outer Tub bearing replacement process.......Dick Attachment: Outer Tub Beaings removed 3.JPG (Downloaded 54 times)
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| Posted: Fri Jun 25th, 2010 05:31 pm |
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6th Post |
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dh1200s Grasshopper
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My high tech bearing extraction tools  Attachment: Bearing extraction tools.JPG (Downloaded 54 times)
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| Posted: Fri Jun 25th, 2010 05:59 pm |
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7th Post |
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dh1200s Grasshopper
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One of the original 6207DU Outer Tub bearings and the spacer that sits between the upper and lower Outer Tub bearing. I’m posting this info so that other DIY folks will not be turned off by an issue as this that I feel is cost effective to repair. I’m into the spirit of this site ““Ok, let's get stuff fixed!.”” . Attachment: One of two NSK 6207 DU bearing and spacer.JPG (Downloaded 54 times)
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| Posted: Fri Jun 25th, 2010 06:06 pm |
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8th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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dh1200s wrote: ... If I can figure out how to post multiple Pics in this thread ... ... grasshoppers can't see picture "attachments" posted here If you post them somewhere else, http://www.imageshack.us/ you can then put all the links in one message ... 
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Fri Jun 25th, 2010 06:13 pm |
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9th Post |
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dh1200s Grasshopper
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Top view of the Spinner Assembly lot’s of corrosion. Attachment: The Spinner Assembly lot’s of corrosion..JPG (Downloaded 54 times)
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| Posted: Fri Jun 25th, 2010 06:16 pm |
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10th Post |
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dh1200s Grasshopper
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Be careful when removing those Spinner Bolts all six of them….. where did that sixth one go….): Attachment: Spinner Plate with Wash Basket bolts I broke off one. 2.JPG (Downloaded 53 times)
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| Posted: Fri Jun 25th, 2010 06:27 pm |
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11th Post |
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dh1200s Grasshopper
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: dh1200s wrote: ... If I can figure out how to post multiple Pics in this thread ...
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| Posted: Sat Jun 26th, 2010 07:09 am |
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12th Post |
Scottthewolf
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I was a Maytag Factory Service technician for several years. I also think the Neptune TL is a piece of junk. The engineers where on drugs when they built this POS. One of the worst things they ever did was putting the drain pump at the rear of the machine with no rear access panel.
____________________ Scott Wolf |
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| Posted: Sat Jun 26th, 2010 03:03 pm |
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13th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology 
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@dh1200s-- Great pics, domo for posting 'em! 
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Sat Jun 26th, 2010 07:17 pm |
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14th Post |
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dh1200s Grasshopper
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Scottthewolf wrote: I was a Maytag Factory Service technician for several years. I also think the Neptune TL is a piece of junk. The engineers where on drugs when they built this POS. One of the worst things they ever did was putting the drain pump at the rear of the machine with no rear access panel. What do you mean it's a piece of cake once you remove the outer tub……..yea it’s a PITA and PP design but that happens when the product design teams doesn’t pull into the mix repair folks with years of hands on experience for input into product design. As in my Ind. the $ gets in the way. Attachment: Motor Controller and Drain Pump.JPG (Downloaded 39 times)
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| Posted: Sat Jun 26th, 2010 07:32 pm |
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15th Post |
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dh1200s Grasshopper
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If you want to protect that drain pump from coins or other wash basket trash I did this...... Attachment: Screen 1.JPG (Downloaded 38 times)
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| Posted: Sat Jun 26th, 2010 07:41 pm |
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16th Post |
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dh1200s Grasshopper
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I have to live with this machine as other owners do until they reach a trigger point and dump their $1K machine. My input is not as a cheerleader for the FAV6800A/FAV9800A only to offer DIY owners a chance to make lemonade from lemons. I will challenge any facts on the machine that are out in left field like the owner stated by a local repair tech…… I Just Want Facts Mam, Just the Facts really liked that show …..Dragnet Attachment: Screen 4.JPG (Downloaded 37 times)
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| Posted: Sun Jun 27th, 2010 03:10 am |
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17th Post |
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nickfixit Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Most professionals are required to use only OEM parts, and we have to warrenty our work. How would you even price a repair such as you describe.Plus, How much time can you spend on one customer when you are expected to run 8-10 calls a day. I have seen several that had the support plate siezed to the bearings. I believe the support plate should always be replaced when the bearings and tub seal are replaced. Plus I know it is vastly inferior to other machines when it comes to cleaning the clothes. All you have to do is pull the spin basket out and look at all the crud and scum all over the back of the basket and inside the tub. You should see the look on the customers face when they see that mess. Any $300 plain Jane washer will clean the clothes far better than a FAV. I don't like the logic of the design. It just rolls everthing into a big ball. The dual door latch system is just plain stupidly complex for all it needs to do. The thing will not power the drain pump untill the spin basket reaches a certain RPM. If you like yours, great. But when you compare the FAV to all the other machines out there, the FAV is vastly inferior.
____________________ " Giving numerical data to Sears management is like giving a monkey a machine gun. No one knows for certain what will happen, but you can be sure of two things... It will be real messy, and only the monkey will be unharmed" |
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| Posted: Sun Jun 27th, 2010 07:20 am |
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18th Post |
Scottthewolf
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Thanks, Nickfixit. I'm glad you see it from my point of view. You too must have worked for Maytag Factory Service and went to work for A&E Factory Service when Maytag laid you off. Since I feel like one of your long lost co-worker friends, is it ok if I just call you Nick from now on? The bad thing of working for A&E Factory Service is you still can't rid yourself from Dale Reeder. LOL
____________________ Scott Wolf |
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| Posted: Sun Jun 27th, 2010 03:10 pm |
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19th Post |
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dh1200s Grasshopper
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“”Most professionals are required to use only OEM parts, and we have to warrenty our work.”” Sorry I thought I was posting in the Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > section of this forum. “”How would you even price a repair such as you describe.”” Do It Yourself. “”How much time can you spend on one customer when you are expected to run 8-10 calls a day.”” As an DIY owner of the machine I enjoy rolling up my sleeves I don’t have 8 to 10 Service Calls on the books. I work on my machine when required or the laundry pile starts to stink. I disagree on replacing the Spinner Support Assembly with an Outer Tub bearing replacement if there is no sign of scoring on the Spinner Support Assembly. But that is me and I feel most DIY folks like to control cost. Do you have any pic’s of the aluminum Spinner Support Assembly seized to the inner race of the Outer Tub bearings? I would like to see that mess. If that was the condition then yes I would replace the Spinner Support but not for $189. I spent $39 for a new one with some digging. I said up front “”I have to live with this machine as other owners do until they reach a trigger point and dump their $1K machine. My input is not as a cheerleader for the FAV6800A/FAV9800A only to offer DIY owners a chance to make lemonade from lemons. I will challenge any facts on the machine that are out in left field like the owner stated by a local repair tech”” I challenge this statement from a DIY perspective that the owner received “”Had a repairman look at it and was told it would cost between $600 and $700 to repair because you can't just buy the bearings; have to replace the entire drum system.”” Well I have replaced them on a Series 10 machine and I can point you to post of three other Series 10 machines DIY owners I have helped with Outer Tub bearing replacement. An owner I worked with on another forum replaced them on a Series 15 but with slight modification as I described earlier in the thread. DIY’ers have a measure of flexibility. I totally understand as a Repair Tech you need to install OEM parts for warranty purpose. As you are aware Maytag went to the integrated Upper Outer Tub bearing TW0207-2RS. I got that p/n form the Series 15 owner I mentioned above. That bearing assembly incorporates a One Way Roller clutches bearing with the Outer Tub bearing assembly and was nowhere to be found. But that Owner/DIY’er got around it by replacing it with the standard 6207 2RS bearings. He did not replace the entire Outer Tub p/n 25001199 for big $$$. Why replace the Outer Tub just to get a new pair 6207 2RS Outer Tub Bearings? What sense does that make for the DIY owner? My goal is to extend the service life of the machine with reasonable repair cost to the DIY owner. “”I don't like the logic of the design. It just rolls everthing into a big ball.”” I agree we had to pay extra for the knot tying feature  I wish this thing could tie my boot laces getting hard to bend over with old age and the extra tire tube I’m carrying around. “”The dual door latch system is just plain stupidly complex for all it needs to do”” Na it’s plain vanilla once you understand the signaling operation back to the Control Board…. Start by throwing away the Right Hand Lid latch (only for DIY’ers) it’s not needed for the machine to operate as designed. Only the Left Hand Lid Lock is required with its dual signaling function via the lid magnet and Magnetic Reed relay for Door Open/Door Closed function and the slide switch signaling for Lid Is Locked function. I find most issues that I help DIY’ers with are OP, OD, and FL error codes and most times the issue comes down to corrosion issues in the Left Hand Lid Lock assembly brought on by poor sealing of the lid latch assembly and it proximity to the bleach reservoir. There was a great article here on this site by a DIY’er that got me fired up to roll up my sleeves. I believe it had to do with a corroded lead that had broken off the magnetic reed relay failing to pass +12VDC signaling to Conn P3 pin 9 of the Control Board for Lid is Closed signaling causing the OP error code. I’m sure you have run across several OP, OD, FL error codes related to the Left Hand Lid lock. I have that Left Hand Lid lock documented with pin out info that will help the DIY owner troubleshoot and clean up corrosion issues but when you are on the clock you just toss and replace. “”The thing will not power the drain pump untill the spin basket reaches a certain RPM.”” On my Series 10, 16, 17 FAV6800A machines the firmware on the control board seems to be coded to start the machine off in Spin Cycle slow rpm I believe 90. On the LED display for 90RPM and the machine enters spin cycle of the wash cycle with a full load of water. I believe the design along with the fluid sealed in the inner tub is designed to help dampen tub oscillations as the machine begins to spin up the wash basket. None of my machines will dump all the wash water before starting off in spin cycle of the wash cycle. Anyway enough... my post are geared to the FAV6800A/FAV9800A DIY owners. Again the goal is to extend the service life of the machine with reasonable cost. Every DIY owner will have their cost cutoff point. I strive not to put out bad info on the machine and if I'm in error please let me know. I do not want to put out any info that will mislead the DIY owner. meganmyers I agree with the plain vanilla $300 machine if you are not a DIY owner. Good Luck to you………Dick
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| Posted: Sun Jun 27th, 2010 10:00 pm |
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20th Post |
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dh1200s Grasshopper
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Here it is I found it!!! http://fixitnow.com/wp/2006/09/06/maytag-neptune-fav6800aww-top-load-washer-op-code/ Samurai Appliance Repair Man and forum mod’s thank you for your support to the DIY community it is very much appreciated. You have an outstanding DIY site………Dick
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