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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Sub-counter-under-Zero 245 defrost heater er... uh... under counter Sub-Zero

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Sub-counter-under-Zero 245 defrost heater er... uh... under counter Sub-Zero  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Tue Apr 20th, 2010 09:56 am
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red chili time

 

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I'm trying to figure out if the one (defrost heater) that's in a fridge that's "drying out" after its extreme artic adventure is in working condition.

The one i'm looking at reads 54ohms which seemed kinda high.
Would that put it in the 300 watt range? Maybe not enough to do the job over time? Not sure. Not so good with the 110V through 54ohms (resistive load)  = ____ watts equation.

The defrost interval seems to be about 20 minutes. The thermostat is good.

Also, it's not looking good trying to find one of these things if it is the problem?

Thanks,


i wish i had taken pictures before i defrosted it....
i wish i had one of those steam guns....

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 Posted: Tue Apr 20th, 2010 02:05 pm
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after manual defrosting ...

post a picture of the Evaporator after the Compressor has been running an hour or two ..

 



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 Posted: Tue Apr 20th, 2010 07:30 pm
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Reg_US  I wish i could hang around at their house for a couple beers but their spread is way out in the boonies north of town.

Someone told me that 54 ohms would be 2.22 amps which would make it about 240 watts. All the other small SZ bar freezers i've got specs for say their heaters are in the 400 watt range (30-38ohms)

I'm not so good with the formulas...
Is the math like this?:  120V/54ohms = 2.22 amps x 120V = 266watts?

I've got a whole gob of spec sheets from this guys web-site but i couldn't find the newer 245 anywhere...
http://www.subzerospecialists.com/
he sure was nice to put this stuff out in the PD.




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 Posted: Tue Apr 20th, 2010 07:44 pm
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red chili time wrote: ... Is the math like this?:  120V/54ohms = 2.22 amps x 120V = 266watts?

same math: P=E2 / R 

(120v x 120v = 14400)  / 54 ohms = 266 w

Heaters usually don't get "weak"

I'll do some more searching

 


 



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 Posted: Wed Apr 21st, 2010 12:41 am
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Thanks for clarifying the calculation for watts from resistance.

I put everything back together, let it run long enough to close the DTT, put the unit in defrost and checked a leg of the heater and it read 2.08amps with 117v. So it's puttin out about 240watts. I wonder, this may be all it needs? The evaporator is only 5"x7"x5" or thereabouts.

The main complaint was no ice in the house. Checked the IM operation and fill. They should start getting some ice soon from this unit while they get a plumber in on the water line issue on their main R/Fz.

If you have any leads on the resistance value for a good heater that would be great. If it's too different i'll go ahead and order one for it.

Thanks again,
RCT

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 Posted: Wed Apr 21st, 2010 02:50 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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Heater should be OK..

Is there Ice in the IceMaker ?

IceMaker won't "harvest" the Ice untill it's +15F or colder.

 



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 Posted: Wed Apr 21st, 2010 06:47 am
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Thanks RegUS_PatOff,
  i guess i should have been more clear. I had taken the IM out to get to the evap box - the fountain of ice forming around it had consumed the IM too.
  i didn't mention, also, that the door had been left open - i was mainly worried about the DH cause i shut the door 3 days before hoping for a defrost - didn't find one on returning. I was trying to find a culprit. Guess it was just the door. Must have been open for a couple months - not much humidity 'round here.
  Also too, when i put the IM back in i jumpered it to get it started and checked water fill level. So it's got water in it ready to go when the whole thing freezes down again.

Thanks for getting back,
RCT

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