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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Bosch Dishwasher SHE66C05UC/40
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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Bosch Dishwasher SHE66C05UC/40 |
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| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, appl.tech.29501 |
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| Bosch Dishwasher SHE66C05UC/40 | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Sun Jan 3rd, 2010 10:31 pm |
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1st Post |
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Marcplante Chief Apprentice Appliantologist
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Bosch Dishwasher number SHE66C05UC/40. Had a problem, I believe with the float switch, that left my drain pump running for a couple long sessions (overnight), until i caught the problem and unstuck the float switch. Dishwasher runs fine, though the drain pump is loud. Not oh_my_god_that_sucker_is_ GRINDING loud, but too loud for the normal tranquility of a Bosch dishwasher. Thinking I toasted the bearings. How messy would a motor replacement be? I'm fine getting the unit out of containment to work on it. Looks like the part is only $66. Anything other than the pump to do while I'm in there? Domo,
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| Posted: Sun Jan 3rd, 2010 11:07 pm |
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2nd Post |
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appl.tech.29501 Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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Nope just look for obvious signs of any leaking...although a replacement pump is probably the only thing to take of the noise I would get the pump from Repair Clinic...that way if for some reason you were able to find some fluke repairable problem with your old pump and don't need the new one you can return it.
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| Posted: Sun Jan 3rd, 2010 11:07 pm |
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3rd Post |
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KurtiusInterupptus Sublime Master of Appliantology
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no need to remove from containment, just remove front panel and toe kick panel. there is one more strip that needs to come off(2 screws, silver ,holds wire guide, you'll see it) and you have just enough room to twist the pump out of holder bracket. be sure to soak up spilled water in bottom pan before installing new pump to avoid tripping the flood switch. dang appl.tech at least i had something different to offer this time HA Last edited on Sun Jan 3rd, 2010 11:09 pm by KurtiusInterupptus ____________________ As every cockroach knows , thriving on poisons is the secret of success. |
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| Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 07:20 pm |
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4th Post |
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Marcplante Chief Apprentice Appliantologist
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Hmmm...with the toe plate off on this unit, I see lots of immovable plastic, the connection for the water feed line on the left, and the electrical connection access panel (a 4x4 ish square, not a strip, on the right. Methinks I'm pulling the unit after the kids go down tonight. What's everyone else doing with their saturday night? At least the keg of Dominion Lager is happily bloated in the basement.
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| Posted: Sun Jan 10th, 2010 03:23 am |
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5th Post |
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Marcplante Chief Apprentice Appliantologist
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Pulled the unit, and, yes, if you've done the job before, you can get at the pump from the front. I was glad to have the extra visibility and access from the left side of the dishwasher with the steel cover off (one screw, no biggie. Got the new pump in and everything back together, though I admit I gave up on the two screws that hold the plastic kick panel in place. It wedges in fine without them. Turned on the dishwasher to run a rinse and hold test and had the same problem that started this whole mess. Drain pump didn't seem to want to turn off. So I pulled the unit again (I have to get it in the counter to hook up the water), fiddled with the float valve, and mopped up the bit of water in the bottom pan (looks like I tripped the flood switch despite Kurtis Interupptus' warnings). Regardless, the new pump is *much* quieter. Back to the same Bosch that you open while its running cause it's sooo quiet. Also, I found it awkward getting the pumps in and out of the working space. I found the best opening to work through was behind the housing for the float valve. Loosening the drain tube gave the pump enough room to rotate and release. Thanks to all.
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