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 Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, appl.tech.29501 Bookmark and Share Page:    1  2  Next Page Last Page  
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Oven won't fire up  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Tue Dec 22nd, 2009 05:15 am
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kriedel
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Had a appliance technician come and diagnose the problem -- claimed the oven needed a new ignitor.  Didn't like how much he wanted to charge, so I paid him for his visit, ordered the part and installed it myself.  Now the ignitor glows nice and red when I turn the oven on, but the gas won't come on.

 

Also, when we moved into this house we just bought, we started smelling gas in the kitchen.  Gas company came and replaced the shutoff valve to the oven.  Now, when the shutoff valve is closed, there's no gas smell.  But when it's open, allowing the gas to flow to the oven, we do smell it.

 

Need to figure out how to troubleshoot this.

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 Posted: Tue Dec 22nd, 2009 05:38 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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<topic moved to Kitchen Appliance forum>

Go to the hardware store and buy a bottle of bubble leak detector, like this:



With the gas on, apply it to all connections, looking for bubbles == loose connection. If none found, then remove the bake element and put a dab on the gas orifice at the base of the burner tube. if it bubbles, then the gas safety valve is bad.

Last edited on Thu Dec 24th, 2009 12:50 am by Samurai Appliance Repair Man



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 Posted: Wed Dec 23rd, 2009 10:37 pm
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kriedel
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Found the leak.  The gas line wasn't tightened enough.  But still can't get the oven to fire up.

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 Posted: Wed Dec 23rd, 2009 10:58 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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Do you have an Amp-meter to measure the Ignitor current draw (should be 2.8A to 3.3A after 30 seconds)

or if you can measure the voltage across the Gas Safety Valve, should be 3v AC to 3.3v AC after 30 seconds ...


If the Oven has been disconnected from the Gas Line for a long time (months),
without the rubber cap on the Gas LIne,
the Gas Safety Valve may have become rusted ...



if you have a Harbor Freight Store near you

may be on sale at the store or in one of their current flyers ..

also 20% OFF coupon good till 1/29/10 

also good on sale items

free flashlight almost useless... uses (3) AAA batteries :(

sometimes on sale... bring print-out to store 
 

click on picture 96308   $ 12.99  






click on picture 95683   $ 19.99

 
 



click on picture 95652   $ 19.99  sale $ 11.99  

(although doesn't have as many "low range" settings ... see instruction manuals)
 
 


link Harbor Freight Digital Clamp Meters



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 Posted: Wed Dec 23rd, 2009 11:44 pm
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kriedel
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I've got an amp meter.  It doesn't have any fancy clamps, but it works.  I measured the across what looks like the gas safety valve.  It's the only thing hooked up to the gas that has electrical connections, and it's located at the bottom of the oven underneath a metal cover.  But I only picked up about 0.5 volts. 

 

As for the oven being disconnected for a long period, I don't think that's the case, but we just bought the house, so I could be wrong.  There are no signs of corrosion.

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 Posted: Wed Dec 23rd, 2009 11:52 pm
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The Ignitor and Gas Valve are in series ...

If you could measure the current (in series) of the Gas Valve (after 30 seconds)

should be about 3A AC



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 Posted: Thu Dec 24th, 2009 12:34 am
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kriedel
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Attached is a pic that shows the only place I was able to find anything I could measure with an amp meter, at least in the oven itself.  Is there another place I should look?

Attachment: oven (1) (Small).JPG (Downloaded 36 times)

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 Posted: Thu Dec 24th, 2009 12:54 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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AC AMPS in series with (not across) the Gas Valve



 



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 Posted: Thu Dec 24th, 2009 01:31 am
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And you really need a clamp-on ampmeter to make the current measurements.



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 Posted: Thu Dec 24th, 2009 01:32 am
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not really ..

just unplug one of the wires on the Gas Valve and connect your amp meter in series with that connection.



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 Posted: Thu Dec 24th, 2009 01:57 am
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While that's true, he's not going to read the difference between tenths of an amp on the meter he's using.



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 Posted: Thu Dec 24th, 2009 02:00 am
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kriedel
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Sorry, I'm really trying to understand this.  But I'm not sure I get what you mean by series.  Are you saying that the current goes from one part to another before returning to the safety valve (as opposed to all parts getting current simultaneously)?  And if so, where to I position my points of contact to get a measurement?

 

Also, my meter measures volts AC and DC, but amps only in DC.  Will that make a difference?

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 Posted: Thu Dec 24th, 2009 02:05 am
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kriedel
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Didn't see the other posts before I replied.  I take it I need a better meter. 

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 Posted: Thu Dec 24th, 2009 02:10 am
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kriedel wrote: Didn't see the other posts before I replied.  I take it I need a better meter. 

yes ..


if you have a Harbor Freight Store near you,

they have these meters, normally $ 4.99, w/battery

but sometimes on sale for $ 2.99
if on sale, print sale page and take to store

 

click on picture



click on picture


OR this one

click on picture



click on picture $ 2.99



also 20% OFF coupon good till 1/29/10 

also good on sale items

free flashlight almost useless... uses (3) AAA batteries :(

sometimes on sale... bring print-out to store 
 

click on picture 95683 $ 19.99

 



click on picture 95652 $ 19.99  sale $ 11.99 (but not "low ranges" )

   

link Harbor Freight Digital Clamp Meters





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 Posted: Thu Dec 24th, 2009 09:49 am
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I have two meters just like this one (95683 $ 19.99). They work great, just set it on amps, then clip it around one of the wires to the gas valve. It will read out the amperage as the ignitor glows brighter. Its should get to around 3 or more amps and the gas valve should then open. (about 2 minutes or so)

Just for fun try this.

Makes sure that the gas shutoff or shutoffs are turned on, and that the wires and burner parts are where they are supposed to be.

Turn on the oven and watch the ignitor glow. When its been on about two minutes or the ignitor is almost white/yellow looking.......Very carefully tap the side of the gas valve with a screwdriver handle. If it opens and the burner lites great. If not you probably have a bad gas valve.

If the ignitor never gets that bright, you might have a problem with voltage (should be 110 to 120 volts) or the ignitor.

I've had more than a few gas valves stick and once broken loose they work normally. Not sure what causes them to stick in the first place. Good luck and Merry Christmas!

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 Posted: Thu Dec 24th, 2009 10:34 am
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That Guy wrote:  Its should get to around 3 or more amps and the gas valve should then open. (about 2 minutes or so)
If it's taking 2 minutes to light you have a bad ignitor.  A good ignitor, even one that is a little on the weak side and drawing only 2.8 amps will open a good gas valve in under 1 minute, usually 45-50 seconds is normal.



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 Posted: Thu Dec 24th, 2009 11:22 am
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That Guy
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Yeah, I know. I always tell people 2 minutes to be on the safe side. That way the ignitor is as hot as its going to get.

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 Posted: Mon Feb 8th, 2010 08:30 pm
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kriedel
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Life events interrupted this project.  But now my wife's itching to bake again, so I need to get this thing fixed.  The gas valve is getting electric current, but if I'm reading my slick new meter right, it's less than one amp.  Ignitor's glowing nicely, though.

 

I also tried tapping the valve to see if I could loosen any gummed up parts inside -- that didn't work.  Is it looking like I need a new valve?

 

 

Attachment: IMG_2005 (Small).JPG (Downloaded 13 times)

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 Posted: Mon Feb 8th, 2010 08:30 pm
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kriedel
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pic #2

Attachment: IMG_2006 (Small).JPG (Downloaded 13 times)

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 Posted: Mon Feb 8th, 2010 08:35 pm
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If you're reading your meter right ...

I don't think it would be glowing that good with less than 1 amp ...

it should draw about 3 amps (after 30 seconds)

OR the Ignitor is bad...

 

you could also try measuring the voltage across the Gas Valve ...

It should read about 3.3v AC after 30 seconds..


 

I can't see the photo real well, but the Meter Jaws should be around the wire, not on it.



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