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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag Neptune Stackable Model# MLE2000AYW |
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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag Neptune Stackable Model# MLE2000AYW |
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| Maytag Neptune Stackable Model# MLE2000AYW | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Sat Nov 7th, 2009 03:50 pm |
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1st Post |
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tea642000 Master Appliantologist 
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I am currently looking at this Maytag Neptune stack-able that when put into wash cycle you must hold the start button in to start the water to fill. When the start button is released the machine turns off. If you advance the timer to spin the water comes in and the pump turns on the machine is filling and draining. The door locks, The machine will go into a high speed spin at this time. The timer did not seem to advance at the time of the visit. When left on water will eventually over flow on the floor. Hope you can make sense of this. Thought id try for some input on this one. Hope to hear from you!!!!!!!!!!!
____________________ Tea64 |
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| Posted: Sat Nov 7th, 2009 04:12 pm |
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2nd Post |
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MARSfixinit Master Appliantologist
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Water Valve, Board, Pressure Switch - I've only worked on a couple of these...and they were pains to diagnose. But, the last one I worked on was pouring water out the front. Turned out to be a pressure switch. The one before that had a burn spot on the board that was constantly sending power to the water valve. Changed out the board. Walahh! Water Valve - 22002437 - about $100 retail Machine Control - 22004325 - about $200 retail Pressure Switch (mounted on pump) - Series 45, 51 and later - 22003727 - $50 retail Pressure Switch (mounted on cabinet) - 22002994 - $50 retail Last edited on Sat Nov 7th, 2009 04:23 pm by MARSfixinit ____________________ Service Beyond. |
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| Posted: Sat Nov 7th, 2009 04:46 pm |
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3rd Post |
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tea642000 Master Appliantologist
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Thank you MARSfixinit, seeing though the pressure switch had been changed not to long ago by another repair service I was leaning tords the main control board. I don't think the pressure switch would cause the start switch to act like that when there is no water in the tub. Electronic issue.
____________________ Tea64 |
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| Posted: Sat Nov 7th, 2009 07:16 pm |
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4th Post |
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Tronicsmasta Sublime Master of Appliantology 
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i run into that also... i usually end up replacing mach control or the motor control. You can test for proper operation of the mcu by turning the machine on, check for 120 at the black and white of the mcu. if 120 is present and you pull out the j4 connector, the basket should rotate at approx 60-90 rpms constant. if it does, then your mcu is good and you will need a ccu. if not, then try replacing the conversion kit or mcu if possible.
____________________ It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call Sears(1-800-469-4663), A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com). |
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| Posted: Sun Nov 8th, 2009 05:42 pm |
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5th Post |
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red chili time Apprentice Appliantologist, First Class
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The line relay on the machine control is activated by the momentary start/stop switch. If the machine won't stay on there's definitely something funky about the relay on the machine control. As well, the no advance on the timer looks like the machine control since the board is responsible for advancing the timer (or not). Here's a quote from the SM "The timer is solely used as an off-board set of relay switches". As far as the odd behavior in filling and overflowing you could check the pressure switch input to the machine control board via P5(wh) common and P1/1(pu34). Once the proper water level has been reached (2 levels - determined by location of timer - wash (12T/bu32) or rinse (6B/gy33)) the 120V signal should be lost. Low water = 120V. Satisfied pressure switch = 0V. The other odd behavior ie water coming in during spin looks like the mach.control too. There are 4 conductors from the timer to the board that tell the board where the timer is. If these aren't making a good circuit or the timer is doing funky things the machine control won't do what the timer says it should. As well, if the machine control is fried it will miss-interpret the code coming from the four wires. The code table is in the SM (service manual). four wires makes for 16 possible signals but there are only 11. Best of Luck this mach. is a brain burner, and mine is getting done over hard. I've been studying the SM for two days now. R.C.T. Last edited on Sun Nov 8th, 2009 05:46 pm by red chili time |
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| Posted: Mon Nov 9th, 2009 02:49 am |
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6th Post |
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certified tech group 51 Sublime Master of Appliantology 
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Remove your control board and look at the back of the board near the connectors P-7 ...P-2.....P-3...............look for burnt traces on the board.... You cannot see the damage to the traces from the front.......Off the top of my head , I think P-7 controls the water valves, over-fill condition........................Sounds like MARSfixinit has ran across this same problem before...
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| Posted: Sat Nov 21st, 2009 03:28 am |
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7th Post |
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tea642000 Master Appliantologist
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Just wanted to update this problem. Installed the new Main Control board and  There were two obvious burnt spots on the board. Just wanted to say Thank you to all that helped with this problem!
____________________ Tea64 |
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