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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Thermador gas cooktop #SGCS365RS |
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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Thermador gas cooktop #SGCS365RS |
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| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, Pegi |
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| Thermador gas cooktop #SGCS365RS | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Wed Nov 4th, 2009 02:01 am |
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1st Post |
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mch13 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I bought a replacement potentiometer-simmer controller for the above after discovering my cooktop's problems were explained on a thread elsewhere on this site. The new style potentiometers do not seem to sit "in place" as the old style ones do, so I am wondering if I was sent the wrong part as none of the numbers seem to match the service bulletin sent with the parts. I am feeling very stupid and look forward to you shedding some light on the situation. Otherwise, I will just open a Belgian Ale and forgetta bout it....
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| Posted: Wed Nov 4th, 2009 03:47 am |
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2nd Post |
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Moostafa The Ayatollah of Appliantology 
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Hello, my unpotential friend. Perhaps you could share with us the part number of the potentiometer kit you purchased? As you Ameedicans say, "I'll show you mine if you'll show me yours." Me first:  
____________________ Allahu Akbar! Moostafa |
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| Posted: Wed Nov 4th, 2009 02:36 pm |
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3rd Post |
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mch13 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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The part # on the kit is 497234. The part # on the bag of the potentiometer is 962061 and the simmer controller # is SQ003-H B.
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| Posted: Thu Nov 5th, 2009 08:42 pm |
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4th Post |
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seldomvisitor Apprentice Appliantologist
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Hmmm...this seems to be a common problem. I read (elsewhere) that JUST replacing the potentiometer was sufficient (assuming the pot is the problem). The entire kit is like $150+ while the pots (Bosch 422748) can be had for like $15 each. Is this doable?
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| Posted: Fri Nov 6th, 2009 03:51 am |
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5th Post |
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certified tech group 51 Sublime Master of Appliantology 
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The part in the picture posted by MOOSTAFA I think is part number 422749... You may need part number 422748 has 4 little pins, three on top and one on the bottom, near the connector strip.......could be the reason it is not sitting 'in place'?? You got the wrong part??
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| Posted: Sat Nov 7th, 2009 12:01 pm |
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6th Post |
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seldomvisitor Apprentice Appliantologist
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There is a Thermador Service Bulletin about this - apparently 552859 is the bulletin number? I'm looking at an image from the AppliancePartsPros.com site of the kit that contains two pots and the simmer controller: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details_lgimg.aspx?part_id=3872616&image=0 Anyway, is that service bulletin available anywhere around here? Last edited on Sat Nov 7th, 2009 12:12 pm by seldomvisitor |
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| Posted: Mon Nov 9th, 2009 09:11 pm |
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7th Post |
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seldomvisitor Apprentice Appliantologist
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Unfortunately, the link directly above may have gone bad (though this may be transient). Last edited on Mon Nov 9th, 2009 09:17 pm by seldomvisitor |
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| Posted: Tue Nov 10th, 2009 05:26 pm |
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8th Post |
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seldomvisitor Apprentice Appliantologist
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> ...I read (elsewhere) that JUST replacing the potentiometer > was sufficient (assuming the pot is the problem). The entire > kit is like $150+ while the pots (Bosch 422748) can be had > for like $15 each. > > Is this doable? Just as a followup - I received my single pot order last night and installed it today (finished a few minutes ago). The pot replacement was much easier than I expected - remove a trim panel, control knobs, control panel, and there is it was - literally just remove connector and pull off the pot, replace the pot, reconnect the connector, test, and reassemble all else. Piece of cake for THIS non-appliance-aware individual. The test was both satisfying AND disappointing. The burner, for the first time in years, received a full gas flow when turning the knob, however the sparker did NOT spark. I was able to light the burner with a "gas match" and control the burner flame down to low - due to no spark XLO is not doable. It appears the reason for the original dead pot's failure - and the current no-spark failure - is some massive gunk attack that got into BOTH the pot AND the connector. Something dripped down from stove level on these electronics; I wouldn't be surprised if it was a combination of grease, water, general pot spillover, and maybe even EasyOff. Anyway, the connector has a thoroughly corroded pin 1 connection - and THAT is the switch output to the spark unit. At this point I'm willing to live with a sparkless-on-start-alone burner BECAUSE...the sparker works FINE when ANOTHER burner is started up. So the current workaround for the apparently dead-connection of the now-sorta-working burner is to turn on the now-working burner, then turn on any of the OTHER burners to get a spark! Gack. Or use the "gas match". That works, too. [and, again, the XLO part of this burner is dead til the burner can spark alone, pretty much. It DOES work if the 2nd XLO burner is also on XLO since that one will cause the sparker to spark at the right time...but we don't even use XLO ANYWAY so no big deal]
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| Posted: Tue Nov 10th, 2009 06:19 pm |
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9th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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I don't have a service manual nor parts list for that model, but check the Spark Switch on the Burner Control if you have something like this: 
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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