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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Dryer stopped mid cycle and wont restart, Kenmore dryer 11062622100

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Dryer stopped mid cycle and wont restart, Kenmore dryer 11062622100  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Tue Nov 3rd, 2009 10:51 pm
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havinagoodtime
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OOPS I left a number out on my Model # and dont know how to edit it. Correct # is 11062622100  My Kenmore dryer stopped half way thru a load, now it wont start at all. The clothes were warm when I noticed it had stopped, no strange smell. I believe the door is fine because when I close it I can hear the timer start ticking. I also assume it is getting power for the same reason ? The outlet on the wall is sort of cockeyed and has some slight rust. Maybe only half of the 220 is coming out of the outlet ? . I just bought a multimeter, but am leary of electricity.  Any ideas at all on the dryer ?The drum will roll when I move it by hand. I did move the dryer  just a couple of days before it quit working and cleaned out the hose and vent. I unplugged it for a day (after it quit) and still no go !  Any ideas at all on the dryer ? A safe way to test the outlet would be appreciated too ! Also, any idea where the fuse is located on this unit ? Thanks, Dan

Last edited on Tue Nov 3rd, 2009 11:14 pm by havinagoodtime

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 Posted: Wed Nov 4th, 2009 01:02 am
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havinagoodtime
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UPDATE ! I studied up on the multi meter and I am getting the correct voltage out my outlet 120/120/240. I also took the top off and the belt seems fine to me. Next I took the back and the chute off and cleaned out everything. I didnt notice anything burnt. I also ended up locating the thermal fuse and it had some very slight browning on one end. Any more ideas on what my problem may be ? Now Im trying to figure out how to test for continuity ?

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 Posted: Wed Nov 4th, 2009 03:50 am
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The Thermal Fuse that would cause your symptoms would be this one, on the Blower Housing.

Tested with Dryer Un-plugged from Wall Outlet.

Meter set for 200 OHMS

click on picture



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 Posted: Wed Nov 4th, 2009 04:21 am
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havinagoodtime
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Thanks for your input ! I unhooked both wires on the thermal fuse and tested with meter set at 200 ohms. The meter didnt move. Does this mean I have found the problem ? Or at least that the thermal fuse is bad ?  If so, is there potentialy something else that could of made this fail ? Should I check anything else since the machine is already apart or just focus on replacing the thermal fuse ? Thanks again for the help !

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 Posted: Wed Nov 4th, 2009 04:36 am
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havinagoodtime wrote: ... The meter didnt move. Does this mean I have found the problem ? Or at least that the thermal fuse is bad ?  If so, is there potentialy something else that could of made this fail ? Should I check anything else since the machine is already apart or just focus on replacing the thermal fuse ? ...

yes ...

 


Dryer Vent

Vent should be rigid metal.

Short lengths of flexible metal may be OK, if not crimped when moving the Dryer into place.

NO plastic

NO PVC

NO screws

Foil Duct Tape is OK.

With an empty load, Timed Dry, High Heat, the vent temperature should cycle
somewhere between 135F and 160F

 
Disconnect the Dryer Vent and check for good air-flow there and where it exits the house.

Check the Vent air temperature at the back of the Dryer.

If you have a Harbor Freight Store near you,

click on picture $ 2.99



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