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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > GE model JGBS23 gas range won't heat up |
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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > GE model JGBS23 gas range won't heat up |
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| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, Pegi |
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| GE model JGBS23 gas range won't heat up | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2009 02:09 pm |
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1st Post |
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mike phillips Apprentice Appliantologist
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Ignitor and valve are new, burner quickly lights with all blue flame and gradually gets lazy and more yellow, takes 35-45 min to reach 350. Ignintor (round type) draws 2.5-2.6 amps. Solutions??
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| Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2009 02:32 pm |
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2nd Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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What's full model number on the Range ? some seem to use the round Ignitors, and some the flat Ignitors. What's the part number of the Gas Valve ?
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2009 02:45 pm |
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3rd Post |
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mike phillips Apprentice Appliantologist
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Model # JGBS23WEV2WW, Round ingnitor part # WB2X9154, Valve # WB19K13
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| Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2009 02:59 pm |
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4th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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that's the right parts combination for your Range... 2.5A to 3.0A are OK Was this the same problem before parts replacement ? Does the Ignitor stay at the same glow intensity (and current) while the Flame is ON ?
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2009 03:08 pm |
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5th Post |
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mike phillips Apprentice Appliantologist
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Original problem was oven would not light at all, local supplier only had ingintor so tryed that first and then replaced valve, worked fine for a couple months. Have had some soot problems as well but air shutter is wide open. Ignitor stays same color. Also checked gas coming into house, 11-12" WC. Cooktop burners work fine.
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| Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2009 03:45 pm |
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6th Post |
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kdog Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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mike phillips wrote: Also checked gas coming into house, 11-12" WC. What kind of gas would that be?? sounds about the right pressure for Propane, but your valve regulator set for natural gas?
____________________ two wrongs don't make a right,but three lefts do. |
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| Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2009 03:48 pm |
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7th Post |
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mike phillips Apprentice Appliantologist
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Sorry, gas is LP, Also have not checked current after initial light.
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| Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2009 03:50 pm |
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8th Post |
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kdog Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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The regulator in the valve that you replaced comes factory set for Natural gas, you need to turn off the gas, remove the vent cover from the valve and flip over the spring actuator- if you look at the pieces closely, they will be marked with a "NG" and "LP" As it stands, the regulator in the valve will be dropping the pressure to 3" or 4" WC Last edited on Wed Oct 28th, 2009 03:53 pm by kdog ____________________ two wrongs don't make a right,but three lefts do. |
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| Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2009 03:53 pm |
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9th Post |
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mike phillips Apprentice Appliantologist
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The valve I replaced was the safety valve which was preset for NG but I adjusted orifice as per manual for LP.
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| Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2009 03:55 pm |
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10th Post |
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kdog Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Yes, but it isn't the orifice that drops the pressure, there is a large hexagonal cap on the valve, within it is a pressure spring and pin
____________________ two wrongs don't make a right,but three lefts do. |
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| Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2009 03:58 pm |
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11th Post |
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kdog Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Looking at the picture of your valve, the regulator must be upstream from it, take a look and make sure it is set for LP
____________________ two wrongs don't make a right,but three lefts do. |
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| Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2009 03:59 pm |
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12th Post |
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mike phillips Apprentice Appliantologist
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If you are referring to the pressure regulator that supplies the oven I have not replaced that and it is set for LP. Thanks
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| Posted: Wed Oct 28th, 2009 07:01 pm |
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13th Post |
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mike phillips Apprentice Appliantologist
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how do you check that you are getting correct pressure from the range regulator and what would the pressure be?
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| Posted: Thu Oct 29th, 2009 10:15 am |
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14th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology 
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Some info on converting a gas range here that you may wish to review. You can make your own manometer to measure gas pressure-- a fun science project for the whole family!
____________________ Links: Parts | FAQs | Store | Beer | Home |
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| Posted: Thu Oct 29th, 2009 03:35 pm |
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15th Post |
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mike phillips Apprentice Appliantologist
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Checked gas pressure last night, with oven off 8.9", with oven on 8.67", oven and one burner on, 8.5". Amp draw on ignintor, 2.7 amps when lighting, 2.45 amps after 20 minutes. Oven took 30 minutes to reach 350. Any other ideas?
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| Posted: Thu Oct 29th, 2009 10:33 pm |
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16th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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mike phillips wrote:Checked gas pressure last night, with oven off 8.9", with oven on 8.67", oven and one burner on, 8.5". Pressure's low-- should be 10.5 to 11" w.c.
____________________ Links: Parts | FAQs | Store | Beer | Home |
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| Posted: Fri Oct 30th, 2009 12:15 am |
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17th Post |
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mike phillips Apprentice Appliantologist
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Are you referring to pressure from house regulator to range (i have 11-12") or pressure out of range regulator to burners ( i have 8.67")?
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| Posted: Fri Oct 30th, 2009 02:20 am |
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18th Post |
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kdog Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Pressure should not drop, check for a partial blockage somewhere (a stray chunk of teflon tape etc)
____________________ two wrongs don't make a right,but three lefts do. |
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| Posted: Fri Oct 30th, 2009 03:13 pm |
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19th Post |
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applianceman18007260692 Sublime Master of Appliantology 
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How high is your flame coming off the burner? While the stove is lit you should adjust the flame to no more than half way across the flame spreader. You can look at the bottom of the flame spreader and tell where the fire was on a previous valve. If your flame is about a quarter inch above the holes then you ain't got enough fire to bake a pie shell. Seen it. Last edited on Fri Oct 30th, 2009 03:16 pm by applianceman18007260692 ____________________ "May the hinges of our friendship never grow rusty" Old Irish Saying |
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| Posted: Mon Nov 2nd, 2009 01:03 pm |
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20th Post |
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mike phillips Apprentice Appliantologist
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I took burner out and cleaned it and burner orifice, must have been something in one or both. Oven works fine now, heats to 350 in 15 minutes. Thanks for all your help. Mike
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