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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Kenmore Elite 106.55609400 defrox issue!!!

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Kenmore Elite 106.55609400 defrox issue!!!  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sun Sep 27th, 2009 06:38 pm
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coleC
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My Kenmore Elite 106.55609400  is difficult to locate parts for on the net. I realize its made by Whirpool.

Lost cool to beer side on this SxS. Opened up freezer inside back, found coils iced up.

Freezer -10F, Frig 50F. Checked slider door thing between frig and freezer, it is wide open. Defrosted freezer, after defrost, freezer -10F, frig 33F. Ran diagnostic test on board, all tested 01(good). Both fans blow well. Suspected Bi-metal. I replaced the bi-metal, coils still ice up, defroster working in force mode.

Why did it freeze up? Suspected only thing left was the main board. Replaced the main board. Problem remains!! In about 3 weeks the coils will ice up again, requiring a manual defrost. Defrost heater works but cant defrost entire coil in the run time as it ices over about 75%.

So what else is there?

Low on freon??

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 Posted: Sun Sep 27th, 2009 06:45 pm
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applianceman18007260692
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Did you replace the heater?



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 Posted: Sun Sep 27th, 2009 06:50 pm
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coleC
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No, didnt replace the heater as the heater tests good, gets hot enough to steam the water drops off it, very hot.

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 Posted: Sun Sep 27th, 2009 07:10 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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106.55609400 Wiring Diagram

106.55609400 parts at SearsPartsDirect

The Defrost Cycle Time should be up to 25 minutes ... OR until the Bi-Metal reaches temperature ..
at which time, the Evaporator Coils should be defrosted ..

What Bi-Metal part number did you use ?



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 Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 04:39 am
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coleC
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I'm not sure, I took the number off the bi-metal and ordered a replacement offline. I can open it up and get the number if you think the old one was bad and the new one is wrong. I tested the old one and it tested out good...contanuiety when cold. When I force the defrost in the test cycle, it only runs about 5 minutes, enough for some ice to melt, not long enough to melt the big mass of ice in the middle. When you force it, should it run 25 min or till it opens? I could wire around the bi-metal and see if it will run for 25 minutes when forced if that was the case...????

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 Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 06:22 am
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kdog
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Defrost will run until terminator opens, length of time depends on frost accumulation/temperature - check and make sure the frost pattern is consistent throughout the coils and not just balling up at one end of it. Post a picture if possible

Last edited on Mon Sep 28th, 2009 06:32 am by kdog



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 Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 06:39 am
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coleC
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Here is what it looked like when I pulled the cover off. Frozen all the way back, very little air could through to get to the frig. Like this, the frig ran 50F, while the freezer was -5F.  Fans working.

Whats the most reliable way to put gage access ports on this frig? I have used those puncture saddle types before, seem like they always eventually leak. I'm guessing since I've replaced the bi-metal, and the mother board that this thing may be low on R134, causing the icing? To check, II'llll have to add the ports. Do you really add freon on the high side?? On cars, it was always the low side???

Attachment: CIMG4929.JPG (Downloaded 30 times)

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 Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 06:44 am
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kdog
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Defrost the coil completely using a hair dryer if necessary, then start fridge with rear panel in place, after unit has run for an hour or 2, remove the cover and capture a picture of the frost accumulating on the coil (in action)- you cannot use "saddle valves" to access system, and you cannot "top up" system, must be vacuumed and precisely charged. Best way to diagnose is via a running frost pattern



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 Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 08:02 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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coleC wrote: ... When I force the defrost in the test cycle, it only runs about 5 minutes ...

from page 1 of the Wiring Diagram:

"Electronic Control Features

2) Pulsed Defrost Heat - During the defrost cycle the heater is energized continuously for the first 5 minutes.
It is then cycled off for 60 seconds and on for 120 seconds.
This on/off cycle is repeated until the bi-metal opens or the maximum time ( 25 minutes ) is reached."

 

Make sure the on/off pulsing is working ...

otherwise ... bad Control Board ...



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 Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 08:08 am
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coleC
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Already replaced the control board and bi-metal....no change in operation....

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 Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 08:23 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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make sure it pulses... and for how long..

the Defrost Bi-Metal has a temperature rating, that opens (and terminates the defrost cycle)

I'll try to find the temperature info ...

may be cut-out temperature 48F

Last edited on Mon Sep 28th, 2009 08:47 am by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 08:29 am
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coleC
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Ok, I'll check it tomorrow and see...however I just defrosted today with a hair dryier...it wont frost up for a couple 3 weeks..

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 Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 06:05 pm
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kdog
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Post a picture of the frost pattern while running so we cn see the sealed system conditions



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 Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 06:59 pm
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coleC
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Will photo again tonight and post. It would have been 2 days since total(manual)defrost. Currently running at 5F freezer, 32F frig... but it will be totally obstructed by ice within 2-3 weeks, causing the frig not to recieve the cooling...and thus its temp rising. I sure miss the clock based timers ($14 repair), all the "improvements" are killing me!

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 Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 07:03 pm
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kdog
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Build them and they will come!!



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