Amana Bottom Freezer Refrigerator Model no. BX22A2E Gasket Problems - The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum - Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help - ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums

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Amana Bottom Freezer Refrigerator Model no. BX22A2E Gasket Problems

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Posted: Sun Sep 13th, 2009 08:16 pm

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7Katz
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist

Joined:	Sat Sep 27th, 2008
Location:	New London, Connecticut USA
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Dear Samurais:

I have an Amana (bottom freezer) refrigerator, model no. listed above. The manufacturer's no. is P1161606WE, the serial no., 9409250075. It has served me well over the years and has chugged along to date. Lately, the fridge door gasket has started to split. Prior to the splitting, both gaskets had "slipped" so that the gasket position would sometimes be beyond the door perimeter. At times I have had to readjust the freezer door gasket, the more problematic of the two. The Fridge section gasket has been less of an issue although slippage has occurred there, too. This, of course, has resulted in a poor seal with the consequent frost and moisture. There is some surface rust along the freezer door top, as well as on the hinge bracket. I have consulted the Repair Clinic (great folks) and ordered replacement (black) gaskets. Is there a way I can prevent future "slippage" when I replace the gaskets? What would be the best way to deal with the rust and (small) paint blisters? And is there an off chance I could obtain the Service Manual for this model? I have heard that the gasket slippage was a problem for certain Amana models (including mine). I am very grateful for any assistance you can offer and I look forward to your counsel.

Sincerely,
7K

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Posted: Sun Sep 13th, 2009 09:56 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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all I could find:

BX22A2E Parts List & Diagrams

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Posted: Mon Sep 14th, 2009 02:29 pm

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7Katz
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist

Joined:	Sat Sep 27th, 2008
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Thanks, RegUS_PatOff. I will give it a look, and will report how the effort went when I get the parts and attempt the repair.

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Posted: Tue Apr 20th, 2010 03:53 pm

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4^th Post

7Katz
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist

Joined:	Sat Sep 27th, 2008
Location:	New London, Connecticut USA
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Flavorite Brew:	Fresh (Strong) Coffee
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Samurais:

Thank you for your assistance. I am ever more grateful for this site. My gasket-replacing efforts went well overall. There was some rust and “gunky” areas but they cleaned up rather well. A little black touch-up paint here and there also worked like a charm.
Now I have another problem…
Around the 6th of this month, my gracious wife said the refrigerator section was warming up. I put on my gi, meditated about the challenge, and engaged the enemy…
There was enough cat hair in and around the vents, screens and exchange units to stuff a couch. I had thought that going in from the front bottom grate – as I had done all along with my elongated brush – was sufficient. But this grasshopper was sadly mistaken... After vacuuming/blowing out all the dust/hair/etc/etc I could (about 99%), I accessed the back panel of the freezer and noticed a great deal of frost/ice. After completely defrosting the area and clearing out obstructions (yes, there were small remnants from food containers partly obstructing the drain process…) I reassembled the unit and “fired it up.”
It is now the 20th and I seem to have the same freezer OK (about -5 degrees F.) problem again. When attempting my clean-up and repair I had done the “turn the red button” routine and the defrost heater turned on. I figured all was well – or was it not?
I have checked the FAQ section and will do the necessary “once-overs,” is there anything peculiar to this model (besides its owner…) that I should pay attention to?
I am guessing that there is another ice-over obstructing air flow to the fridge compartment… The heater element is not glass but the ceramic material common to electric stove heater elements. Should I check the thermostat and temperature control units? Do I need to do a test of some sort?
BTW, the compressor seems fine. I’m just not exactly sure where to go from here.
I just want to make sure that I am not taking the “shotgun” approach to parts replacement – I prefer the “shogun” technique.
Thanks again for your terrific site!

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Posted: Tue Apr 20th, 2010 05:04 pm

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appl.tech.29501
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

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If it was frosted up and you didn't replace any parts then you didn't correct the problem..I assume ther red knob you turned was the defrost timer...if so and the heater came on your timer is bad (unless the defrost thermostat is opening too early)....more likely the timer....

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Posted: Tue Apr 20th, 2010 06:34 pm

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7Katz
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist

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Thanks for the reply...

I tried to go to the MSN page that the heater element test procedure was linked to, but it was closed. I'm pretty sure my timer is shot; how do I check the heater element and the defrost thermostat? I have a decent multi-tester, I'm just not sure how to go about it... Does it have to do with resistance/ohms...and all that good stuff?
Any counsel will be appreciated...

Sincerely,

A slightly flustered grasshopper...

P.S. I'm sure I will need to order parts; I just hope I can return any unneeded components.
P.P.S. Yes, the red knob was the for the timer...

Last edited on Tue Apr 20th, 2010 06:36 pm by 7Katz

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Posted: Tue Apr 20th, 2010 07:29 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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yes OHMs, with Fridge power disconnected

Heater should be about 40 OHMs

The Defrost Thermostat (switch) should be closed (0 OHMS) when cold.

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Posted: Tue Apr 20th, 2010 07:50 pm

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7Katz
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Joined:	Sat Sep 27th, 2008
Location:	New London, Connecticut USA
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RegUS_PatOff:

Thanks for the info. How cold should cold be for the switch? I'm reading about 50 Ohms at about 45 degrees F. The heater reads 20 Ohms.
Should the switch be at ambient freezer temp? And how much "elbow room" do I have as far as readings go?

Thanks again,
7K

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Posted: Tue Apr 20th, 2010 07:54 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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50 OHMS ? ?

the switch should either be open or closed ...

usually +15F or colder

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Posted: Tue Apr 20th, 2010 08:00 pm

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10^th Post

7Katz
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist

Joined:	Sat Sep 27th, 2008
Location:	New London, Connecticut USA
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I double-checked. It was 50 Ohms. I am running down the temp as I write. I will check again at ~+10F.
Is 20 Ohms OK for the heater? Or should I replace?

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Posted: Tue Apr 20th, 2010 08:02 pm

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11^th Post

RegUS_PatOff
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Joined:	Sat Sep 24th, 2005
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heaters are ususaly good or bad, they don't change resistance..

20 Ohms seems a little low.. that would be 720 watts ..

I'll do some checking .. maybe later ..

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Posted: Tue Apr 20th, 2010 08:33 pm

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12^th Post

7Katz
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist

Joined:	Sat Sep 27th, 2008
Location:	New London, Connecticut USA
Posts:	24
Flavorite Brew:	Fresh (Strong) Coffee
Status:	Offline

I checked the thermostat at ~+10F. I got a reading of about >50,000 ohms - Infinite (open?).
Thanks for the heater info.
Looks like I'll be replacing the thermostat...?..

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