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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag S/S fridge MSD2454GRQ Replacment Icemaker issue |
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| Moderated by: BrntToast, RegUS_PatOff, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! | Page: 1 2 |
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| Maytag S/S fridge MSD2454GRQ Replacment Icemaker issue | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Thu Sep 3rd, 2009 05:01 am |
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1st Post |
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tdesmit Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I'll try to make a long story short. The fridge listed in the subject line was purchased used from the lady we bought a house from. Didn't notice at the time the icemaker had been gutted, called her to ask about it and got "it had some problems, so we took it out". First problem I encounter is the wire harness was gone too, I find out most replacement units don't come with a harness. The local appliance parts place finally finds a unit with the right connector to plug into the back of freezer, after initially sending me home with one that didn't fit. I think I'm back in business, but no, the harness is too short! I'm pretty handy with electronics and electricity, so I fixed that by adding a few inches to each of the four wires (I promise I did a good job of this, I know it's not the cause of the problem, been doing stuff like that for over 20 years. Just had to add that, so it's not the first question back to me). Another note, the new maker is the "modular" type from the identification page. And I would guess the fridge to be 5-8 years old. So now the unit is installed, after a bit, and a number of quick peeks, I catch it in the cycle of rotating the ejector, but no cubes. I figure there was air in the line, and it will just take a few cycles, but after nearly 24 hours, nothing. I know the temp is OK, because I witnessed the maker going through it's cycle at least three or four times. So I begin to troubleshoot. I guess I better mention this first. The counter guy that found the maker had mentioned that the kit was for a Maytag top freezer model, not my side/side. He made some cryptic remark that he thinks there are some models that require two wires to be swapped in the harness, but he can't remember any more detail than that. So, back to my troubleshooting. I unplugged the water solenoids and check the coils, they ohm out good. I leave them unhooked, and jumper them straight to 110AC with my "test cord", and I get water flowing into the icemaker. So, I'm pretty sure I'm looking at a wiring issue. I did do a little continuity checking from the connector inside the freezer compartment to the solenoids, but I think some of the readings are misleading because of all the other circuitry, but for what's it worth, here's what I got. The connector in the freezer section is a four pin rectangular connector, mounted vertically. I can't really see the wires that go to it, as it's mounted flush with the back of the freezer interior. The top pin of the connector is chassis ground, that one I'm sure of, it corresponds to a green wire with a yellow stripe in the harness to the maker. 2nd pin from top seems to go the brown wire on the solenoids, this is a brown wire in the wire harness to the maker. The third pin from the top, and the bottom pin gave me some strange readings, both of them read continuity to the other wire on the solenoids, as well as to the AC plug, so I'm not sure what that means. The third and last wire on the harness are white and red. I just realized I forgot to note which of the four in the harness has the temp sensor (that clips to the side of the ice mold), I think it was the white one, but until I look again, I can't say for sure, sorry 'bout that. So, are the "modular" icemakers a common pinout, and does anyone have that information? And I would need to know the pinout of the connector at the back of the freezer too. An additional bit of information, the kit I bought was a P/N MA UKI1500AXX, description of "Maycor Top Mount I/M Kit". The sticker under the cover of the icemaker assembly has this number "MMAP106W10122519". The appliance parts place had intially sent me home with a "RIM2000 Kit", it had the right connector on one of the included harnesses (it had MANY), but it had male pins in the connector, and so does the fridge, that was a no-go there! Sorry to be so long-winded with my post, but I wanted to be sure I covered everything I could think of, hopefully it didn't take you as long to read as it took me to write Tom D.
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| Posted: Thu Sep 3rd, 2009 05:12 am |
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2nd Post |
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kdog Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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If your icemaker is modular, it will have test points in the front of it, under the plastic cap. These are all visibly marked test points - you can check with a meter from "L" to a good ground to verify proper polarity to the icemaker. If ok, you can jumper "L" to "V" with a length of insulated wire which should energize the water valve. You can also remove the rear panel of the freezer to take a better look at the destination of the wires in question.
____________________ Can Ye spare some 'cutter me brutha ? http://web.me.com/zenzoidman/kdog/ |
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| Posted: Thu Sep 3rd, 2009 06:26 am |
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3rd Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Icemaker - Ice Dispenser Job Aid Manual this wire harness ? Whirlpool / Maytag Part # 61005276 $ 14 one square = 1 inch click on picture Last edited on Fri Sep 4th, 2009 06:28 am by RegUS_PatOff ____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Thu Sep 3rd, 2009 12:23 pm |
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4th Post |
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Trying to help Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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There were a few units ou there that had a different harness. The L1 and the neutrals are reversed at the head because the unit is designed with L1 sitting at the valves at all times instead of neutral. If you have the wrong harness, your icemaker will run fine, just not send an opposite potential to the valve causing a no fill situation. Please shoot back the serial number (if it was there, didn't see it, tooooo early still) and if you have a meter to do a test or two. Take a gander at Reg's photo. Does your icemaker have the opposite ends of the harness crossed like this one (Notice the red and white are reversed at the opposite ends) or does yours stay the same pattern at each end of the harness?? Last edited on Thu Sep 3rd, 2009 12:31 pm by Trying to help ____________________ If we saved YOU Beer $$ today, please make a donation to our beer fund by clicking the link below to help keep this site going. I charge $135.95 PLUS PARTS to do this repair!$! http://fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| Posted: Thu Sep 3rd, 2009 02:33 pm |
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5th Post |
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tdesmit Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Thanks for all the input so far. I'm at work now, I'll go check out the harness over my lunch hour and write down the wiring of the harness. I considered taking the back off to get a look at the back side of the harness in the freezer compartment, but it looks like a can opener or cutting torch moment! It looks like they put the back in place, then roll the edge of the fridge skin over it, I don't see how you could take it off cleanly. I had found the harness that Reg_US posted, I even printed it out to take with me when I went to the parts store. It helped the counter guy find the kit that I ended up getting. He said they used to have just the harness, but after a half-hour of searching, he came up empty. He figured they had sold them all. I'll be posting again after I get a chance to look at the harness. Considering the clues so far, I would have to agree it looks like a line-neutral swap, since everything but the water call is working. Does anyone have the wiring pinout for the "modular" icemaker unit, or my model of Maytag fridge? I did have the serial number of the fridge, just forgot to post it. It's: 18157142AL Revision 18. Just to repeat, model is MSD2454GRQ I'll get back soon with the wire harness pinout, thanks to all so far, I think it's just a matter of time and patience before this one is licked. Tom P.S. I tried to use the test points yesterday, but didn't have much luck. I was using "teasing" needles that we have at work, and we use them as probes. The needle part is about 1 1/2" long, and I had all but the tip and a short section next to the wooden handle insulated, and when I would try to probe the points, the probe would just go in up to the handle without touching anything, with the exception of, I think, the "L" point, that one did stop the probe before it bottomed out. How far in are the probe points on the other test points?
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| Posted: Thu Sep 3rd, 2009 08:00 pm |
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6th Post |
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tdesmit Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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OK, I got the harness back out, and here's the rest of the details, as well as a pic. The harness is wired 1-1, meaning no crossover as shown in the harness above. I can guess that those two pins are line and neutral, and that would explain my no water situation, would it not? The connection at the back of the freezer is; top connection, green wire with yellow stripe, next one down is brown, then white, and red at the bottom. The red wire is the one with the temp sensor/switch clipped to the ice mold. The connection into the icemaker is the same, green/yellow on top, on down to red on the bottom. So, if I'm thinking right, I need to swap the red and white wires at the freezer compartment end. By doing that, it will match the harness that Reg_US posted earlier. Does that sound correct?? I guess I can also assume that the pinout on the icemaker is: top connection Chassis ground 2nd position Water solenoid 3rd line/neutral bottom line/neutral So the only mystery I have is the bottom two, which is supposed to be line, and which one is supposed to be neutral? Awaiting the response of you wise and wonderfull folks. Tom Attachment: Maytag_IM_Harness.JPG (Downloaded 64 times)
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| Posted: Thu Sep 3rd, 2009 09:37 pm |
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7th Post |
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denrayr Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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using your test leads test the connection in the freezer where the harnes plugs into. make sure the light switch is closed as on some models if its open it will cut power to the ice maker. stick one test lead in the pin where the green wire would plug into using your harness as a reference. using the other test lead check each of the other three pins for voltage and report back.
____________________ RedRock Appliance Service 435-773-7838 http://www.redrockrepair.com Serving St George and Southern Utah |
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| Posted: Thu Sep 3rd, 2009 09:47 pm |
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8th Post |
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denrayr Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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after inspecting the photo reg posted, you do need to swap the red and white wires. carefully bend the pin in the molex connector and you can reverse them there. make sure and reverse them at the plug i circled in red. if you reverse them wrong the thermal fuse will be on the neutral side instead of the hot and if the heater grounds you wont have any protection. Attachment: harness.JPG (Downloaded 62 times)
____________________ RedRock Appliance Service 435-773-7838 http://www.redrockrepair.com Serving St George and Southern Utah |
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| Posted: Thu Sep 3rd, 2009 10:25 pm |
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9th Post |
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tdesmit Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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RedRock, are you sure I need to swap the pins at the icemaker? If I do that, the thermal fuse will be in the line to the third position down from the top, and that doesn't match the picture Reg posted. I was planning to swap them at the end that plugs into the freezer connector. Remember, my thermal fuse is in the red wire, not the white one. I already have those pins extracted here at work. We have the extraction tools, that makes it much easier. Thanks for you input. Now one of the questions I had in my head has been answered by you, the black blob is a thermal fuse, not a 'temp sensor" as I thought earlier. I thought that was the device that sensed if the the mold was cold enough to run the cycle, but if that was the case, you would be disconnecting 110 from it when the device was open, and I couldn't figure out how that could work. Thanks for clearing that up (maybe without even knowing you were). I'm planning to swap the wires at the end that goes to the freezer plug, If anyone feels this isn't the proper solution, please speak up now! I'm planning to try this shortly after getting off work. I guess if there's a consensus that I need to do it at the icemaker end, I can always go back and change it. As long as the heater doesn't get stuck on in the mean time, I'll be OK either way it's wired. Thanks again for all the help. In retrospect, I should have bought the cheap icemaker replacement, and ordered the harness off the web, but I'm not the most patient person Tom
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| Posted: Fri Sep 4th, 2009 01:56 am |
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10th Post |
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denrayr Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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you are correct, match it up with the photo. Im not sure why they want to break the neutral side but im no engineer.
____________________ RedRock Appliance Service 435-773-7838 http://www.redrockrepair.com Serving St George and Southern Utah |
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| Posted: Fri Sep 4th, 2009 04:43 am |
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11th Post |
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tdesmit Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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We got ice!! Yee ha. Got the harness and icemaker back in, and the first batch of cubes dumped about 2 hours later. Thanks to all. I guess they are indeed breaking the neutral side, I measured the freezer compartment connector to chassis, and the bottom pin is line for sure, so next one up is neutral, and thats the one with the thermal fuse. Maybe the harness in the picture isn't an exact match for my fridge, either? I could always rewire it, but I don't think I'll bother. If you do get a heater short of hot to chassis, the breaker will trip. Otherwise, if the heater control goes bad and keeps it on, opening the neutral will kill it as well as opening the hot would. Thanks again for all the help, I don't feel so bad about what I paid for the fridge now that it's working again without costing me an arm and a leg. Tom
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| Posted: Fri Sep 4th, 2009 05:24 am |
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12th Post |
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denrayr Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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if the heater grounds it wont necessarily trip the breaker. the heater will have power supplied to it at all times on the common side due to the odd ball wiring. Current will flow through the common side of the heater, through the ice maker frame, and out through the green ground connection. In this scenario power is bypassing the thermal fuse on the neutral wire. Im not telling you to wire it any different than the factory, im just thinking out loud here. Its pretty rare to have one of those heaters ground out in the first place. Im glad you got it working and i learned something new, i had no idea some of these units were wired this way.
____________________ RedRock Appliance Service 435-773-7838 http://www.redrockrepair.com Serving St George and Southern Utah |
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| Posted: Fri Sep 4th, 2009 06:24 am |
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13th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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tdesmit wrote: ... the bottom pin is line for sure, so next one up is neutral, and thats the one with the thermal fuse... Looks like the one in the picture ... (left Connector)
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Wed Sep 23rd, 2009 03:50 am |
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14th Post |
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shags72 Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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Where exactly is this harness. My mom's Maytags icemaker melted and was really hot she said. I took my icemaker out that worked in mine but I am not using in the garage and it doesn't seem to work in hers. I tested the plug in the wall of the freezer and no power there. I figured there was an inline fuse or something and was goin to dive in but saw this post and thought I would ask. It is just a normal over under fridge. Thanks for any help.
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| Posted: Wed Sep 23rd, 2009 04:08 am |
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15th Post |
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tdesmit Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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The harness on mine goes from the back wall of the freezer, up towards the top, to the icemaker assembly. Mine is a side-side, and I think I got the harness for a over-under, that's why it was too short. There should be 110 AC on the connector, you might have to push the door switch by hand to get the power there, they sometimes disconnect power to the icemaker when the freezer door is open. I'm no expert, but there are some here, that's why I came here. With the help of these folks, I got mine making ice again. Tom
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| Posted: Wed Sep 23rd, 2009 04:12 am |
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16th Post |
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shags72 Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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My ice maker has a 90deg connector that goes into the side panel. It does have the 4 pins sticking out of it. Could this have the fusible link in it? I will have to take another look at the wiring harness on the unit. I thought it stayed with the ice maker.
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| Posted: Wed Sep 23rd, 2009 05:37 am |
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17th Post |
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tdesmit Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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On my icemaker (the new one), you have to pull the front plastic cover off to be able to push the release for the harness connector. There is a thermal fuse in the harness that should be clipped onto the icemaker, near the heater element, but that woudn't explain no power at the plug. Tom
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| Posted: Wed Sep 23rd, 2009 10:52 am |
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18th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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shags72 wrote: ... My mom's Maytag ... that's not a valid model number
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Thu Sep 24th, 2009 01:52 am |
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19th Post |
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shags72 Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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OK,OK I get it and beg for your forgiveness
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| Posted: Thu Sep 24th, 2009 01:33 pm |
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20th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Shags, start a new topic.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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