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Kenmore HE3 dryer model 110 82826 101

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Posted: Tue Aug 25th, 2009 09:02 pm

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ltramon45
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I have a Kenmore HE3 front load dryer. My wife has been complaining that she has to run the dryer several times to get the cloths dry. I thought it was the exausht vent that was in need of cleaning. Well I never got a chance to clean it when my wife reports that the dryer won't even turn on. When I open the door the light does not even come on. I opened the machine and was about to check for voltage on the wires in the toe panel area and as soon as the voltage detector got close it went off. Not sure what that means. Does anyone have any ideas.

Model 110 82826 101

serial ML3904670

Call me at 407-222-1574 or e mail to ltramon45@earthlink.net

Last edited on Tue Aug 25th, 2009 09:03 pm by ltramon45

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Posted: Tue Aug 25th, 2009 09:34 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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ltramon45 wrote: ... When I open the door the light does not even come on. I opened the machine and was about to check for voltage on the wires in the toe panel area and as soon as the voltage detector got close it went off. Not sure what that means....

"light does not even come on" ...

Check (re-set) your house Circuit Breakers

Check the voltage connections at the back of the Dryer where the Line Cord connects and at the Wall Outlet

You'll need a real volt-meter for testing.

There should ve 120vAC between the Center and each of the outer Wires

and 240vAC between the outer (2) Wires

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Posted: Tue Aug 25th, 2009 10:08 pm

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ltramon45
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I forgot to mention when I checked the breaker yesterday it was tripped. I reset it and nothing worked yesterday. I tested the the voltage at the back of the machine an it read 250 v ac. I used a Fluke 73 volt meter. I even reset the breaker and retested. Same reading for the center and outer and both outers

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Posted: Tue Aug 25th, 2009 10:30 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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Then at least the Door Switch may be bad if the Light doesn't work ...

110.82826101 Tech Sheets

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Posted: Tue Aug 25th, 2009 10:33 pm

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NCSU_laundry_tech

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if door switch is ok then most likely the thermal fuse

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Posted: Tue Aug 25th, 2009 10:36 pm

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ltramon45
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How do I test the Thermal fuse? Do I leave the machine plugged in or unplug it?

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Posted: Tue Aug 25th, 2009 10:48 pm

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NCSU_laundry_tech

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unplug machine. should be less than 1 ohm

to test door switch:
hit more time, less time, more time, less time

all lights should come on. now machine should beep with you open and close door and display should change

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Posted: Tue Aug 25th, 2009 11:32 pm

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ltramon45
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The Thermal fuse ohm reading was 00.3 ohms. Its lightning really bad hear so I will wait on plugging in and checking the door switch

The Thermal fuse had continuity, but the Thermistor did not. these were tested with out the machine being plugged in.

Last edited on Tue Aug 25th, 2009 11:57 pm by ltramon45

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Posted: Wed Aug 26th, 2009 12:59 am

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ltramon45
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Could it be the machine control electronics? I am not sure if I tested it correctly. If I did do it correctly I did not find continuity between the neutral and P1-2 white wire.

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Posted: Wed Aug 26th, 2009 01:18 am

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NCSU_laundry_tech

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how many ohms p1-3 to p1-4?

should be 2-4 ohms. if its way higher then you have a motor circuit problem. possibly a belt switch issue

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Posted: Wed Aug 26th, 2009 02:01 am

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ltramon45
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With the machine unplugged and if I have the correct wires blue and light blue the reading was 1.7 ohms

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Posted: Wed Aug 26th, 2009 02:17 am

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NCSU_laundry_tech

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did the door switch test ok?

if so looking like a bad board assuming good power source

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Posted: Wed Aug 26th, 2009 02:41 am

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ltramon45
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I have not tested the door switch, not sure how.

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Posted: Wed Aug 26th, 2009 03:19 am

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NCSU_laundry_tech

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NCSU_laundry_tech wrote: unplug machine. should be less than 1 ohm

to test door switch:
hit more time, less time, more time, less time

all lights should come on. now machine should beep with you open and close door and display should changeshould have added dryer should be turned off then do key dance

Last edited on Wed Aug 26th, 2009 03:25 am by NCSU_laundry_tech

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Posted: Wed Aug 26th, 2009 03:22 am

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Here's help on how to make basic electrical measurements:

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2004/12/18/appliance-repair-revelation-making-basic-electrical-measurements/

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Posted: Wed Aug 26th, 2009 04:00 am

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ltramon45
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When plugged in there is no response from the test. Nothing lights up. The panel is completely dead.

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Posted: Wed Aug 26th, 2009 11:58 am

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NCSU_laundry_tech

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^never seen that happen before on dryer that has lights if you try to start a cycle.

make sure dryer is off. keep key dancing it until all lights come on

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Posted: Wed Aug 26th, 2009 02:56 pm

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ltramon45
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http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Tech%20Sheet%20-%203980060.pdf
I followed the tech sheet that was sent to me and the one I found on the machine. I started on page 4 troubleshooting
test. I got to step 5 and I had continuity. It is telling me to replace the machine control electronics. Any ideas, recommendations or just do it.

I also checked the resistance between P1-3 and P1-4 and it read between 1.7 to 2.o ohms

Last edited on Wed Aug 26th, 2009 03:01 pm by ltramon45

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Posted: Wed Aug 26th, 2009 05:03 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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RegUS_PatOff wrote:
Then at least the Door Switch may be bad if the Light doesn't work ...(if the Light worked prior to the outage)

ltramon45 wrote: ... I did not find continuity between the neutral and P1-2 white wire...OR there's a Line Cord / Power problem

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Posted: Wed Aug 26th, 2009 05:06 pm

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NCSU_laundry_tech

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"Any ideas, recommendations or just do it."

did you test the door switch yet? do you have 120V from the black to white wires at the terminal block?

if yes to both. replace board

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