F&P DD603 Stuck in Cycle - The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum - Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help - ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums

ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums Home

ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > F&P DD603 Stuck in Cycle

Konnichiwa and Welcome!

Please register or watch this short screencast on how to get started here.

SEARCH THIS SITE
We have a bizillion pages of specific appliance repair questions and answers here just aching for the furtive caress of your engorged and tingling eyeballs. Use this search box to find ‘em.

FIND PARTS FAST
Search by part number or model number. You can also search by appliance type, brand, or even the type of part.

Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, Pegi

Author

Post

dmayou
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist

Joined:	Thu Sep 18th, 2008
Location:
Posts:	10
Flavorite Brew:	IPA
Status:	Offline

The top drawer of my beloved DD603 will not get through a standard wash cycle. In Fast eco mode (38 minute cycle), the drawer will not progress past 26 minutes remaining on the display. On Fast (58 minute cycle), it sticks on 29 minutes. The wash just continues without end. I can complete the wash by turning the drawer off, then on, choosing the rinse cycle, and starting.

A rinse cycle (12 minutes) completes normally. In diagnostic mode, I can complete the fast cycle, and all functions in diagnostic mode seem to me to work correctly. The tub home sensor works properly as I open and close the drawer.

I have tried swapping the control modules between the bottom and top, but the problem stays with the upper drawer. The light tubes/prism arrangement at the side of the tub seems clean and alligned. The board with the flood switch (in bottom tray) has been through a lot of abuse, but there doesn't seem to be many relevent parts on it that I can see. I also can't see an easy way to swap top and bottom connections, at least not with the amount of beer I keep on hand at any one time.

I've spent so much intimate time with this unit resolving F1 errors and tenderly sopping up trays of water late into the night, that I can't bear to think it's over. Is there something I'm missing that can restore automatic function to the upper drawer?

Scottthewolf
Sublime Master of Appliantology

Joined:	Thu Feb 1st, 2007
Location:	Cleveland, Ohio USA
Posts:	621
Flavorite Brew:	Dunkin Donuts Coffee
Status:	Offline

The leak may have shorted out the heater in the bottom of the drawer. Because the water never reaches a hot enough temperature to satisfy the temperature sensor, it keeps on washing.

dmayou
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist

Joined:	Thu Sep 18th, 2008
Location:
Posts:	10
Flavorite Brew:	IPA
Status:	Offline

I'm slapping my forehead as I type! Thank you so much. I'll have another look at it.

dmayou
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist

Joined:	Thu Sep 18th, 2008
Location:
Posts:	10
Flavorite Brew:	IPA
Status:	Offline

Checking the continuity of the heating element circuit, it seems to be open under the tub. I have removed the heater element (3.5 on the suds-o-meter), and found a break in the heating trace. After much effort, I soldered a piece of copper wire across it, and reinstalled. The yellow gaskets seem to have stretched, and it is hard to get them in place. Sure enough, after reassembing, it is leaking from the heating element gasket. Should I get new gaskets to ensure a good seal, or have I missed a basic step?

Last edited on Sat Jul 4th, 2009 12:09 am by dmayou

Budget Appliance Repair
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

Joined:	Sat Apr 2nd, 2005
Location:	Eureka, California USA
Posts:	2364
Flavorite Brew:
Status:	Offline

If you thank your solder repair is going to hold up and last, (it most likely will), then order a new gasket, (if you can get it separate from the heater), I believe a new gasket may come with a new heater. I could be very wrong on that, I haven't worked on many of these.

EDITED to add: Look up the DD603 parts and if you order a new heater plate it comes with:

527702 KIT HEATER PLATE PH3 US
                     HEATER PLATE ASSY PH3 US
                     525059 SEAL MOTOR HOUSING
                     525058 SEAL HEATER PLATE/TUB

Or your can order just the seals separate from the heater plate by ordering the seal part#'s referenced in the above kit.

Last edited on Sat Jul 4th, 2009 10:03 am by Budget Appliance Repair

dmayou
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist

Joined:	Thu Sep 18th, 2008
Location:
Posts:	10
Flavorite Brew:	IPA
Status:	Offline

I bought a new heater along with the new seals. After seeing how much 'fun' replacing the heater is, I decided that I wasn't going to chance the solder breaking. After putting it all back together, the drawer works again. Thank you, Scottthewolf, for your advice.

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:

"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly, spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."