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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Refrigerator Insulation |
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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Refrigerator Insulation |
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sbdivemaster Senior Apprentice Appliantologist 
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Kenmore Model: 253.60721000 I've got a refrigerator in the garage that will be used for fermenting beer. Right now, the back is against a exterior wall (which faces south) that can get pretty warm; the sides are not against anything. I have a thermometer in there, and I check it several times a day. The garage gets pretty hot during the day (95+˚F). I've noticed the temperature fluctuates 10-15˚F from the coolest part to the hottest part of the day. Not ideal for brewing. I know it's working because the panel in front of the interior evaporator coils is cold and has frost on it. My question: Will putting insulation (I'm considering 1" Polyurethane rigid panel, R-7) around the refrigerator help it hold a more stable temperature, will it hinder the external coils from throwing off heat, or is it just so hot in the garage that the external condenser coils aren't throwing off enough heat? Yesterday, I put two 5-gallon bottles filled with water in there to see if it will hold better when it is full. Eventually, the whole refrigerator will be mostly filled with beer and two full 5-gallon bottles, and controlled by a Johnson Controls A419 ETC to keep the temperature in the 60's. Any help is much appreciated.  |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology 
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Absolutely that would help. And don't forget the top panel. Just don't block the compressor service compartment with insulation, stop short of that entire area. |
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sbdivemaster Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Arigato Sensei. Yes, I did not forget about the top, and I figured on leaving the compressor service compartment open, but I was concerned about blocking the external condenser coils, which are actually hidden inside the cabinet. Putting insulation over the back won't hinder them? I know that a refrigerator will hold better when it's full of solids, not air, so I'm going to wait a few days, since I just put those two 5-gallon bottles of water in there, and see what my temps look like. Currently, my temps are 60-70˚F, but that's less than one day on the coldest setting. The garage gets hot! I will have to send you some of the brew after I get it all set up! |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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sbdivemaster wrote:... I was concerned about blocking the external condenser coils, which are actually hidden inside the cabinet. Putting insulation over the back won't hinder them? Hidden in plain view, mounted to the back of the cabinet. Behold Item 1. You have the natural convection style condenser vs the forced-air cooled condenser, which is what I was thinking of in my reply. Don't cover the condenser grill in back. |
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sbdivemaster Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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OK, Now I am confused. (And I haven't even had a home brew yet!) I have posted pics of the refrigerator. The back is sealed, no coils exposed.   Which type of condenser do I have? Top, sides and front I can do no problem. So, do not add insulation on the back? As you can see, the wall behind the refrigerator just has some plywood directly over the studs. I can easily remove the plywood and put some batt insulation between the studs, and I could also put a 1/2" or 1" Polyurethane rigid panel over that (that entire wall needs to be insulated, but I can at least start with that area); that will help keep some of the heat from the south-exposed wall away from the back of the refrigerator. Another thought: Would keepin the refrigerator out from the wall a few inches and adding a fan blowing across the back of the refrigerator help any? If so, should it be on all the time, or should I wire it in so that it turns on when the compressor turns on? I really appreciate all your help, and the beer I send will be much better with your assistance. |
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Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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That's strange, the parts break down shows a static condenser attached to the back of the refrig, (unless that is just for a service part if the original condenser in the wall fails). And, if that is the case, I believe the condenser that is inside the walls of the refrig are one the sides. After the unit has been running for awhile, feel the sides of the refrig. The warm areas of the wall are were the internal condenser coils will be, and you would not want to insulate them in. Last edited on Wed Jul 1st, 2009 10:52 am by Budget Appliance Repair |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Might have given a wrong model number, which would explain the difference in the condenser between the diagram and actual. |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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SearsPartsDirect lists models from 253.60721000 . . . . . 253.6072100C the lowest model number at Frigidaire Parts List is 253.60721005 Parts List PDF page 6 shows a "grayed out" Condenser (hidden) ? |
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certified tech group 51 Sublime Master of Appliantology 
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Installing foam on the exterior will not let the heat disipate as needed....It will make the exterior walls hotter.....You are changing the cold controls because?? Condenser coils in the walls, The discription sounds like a freezer....... The model number indicates an ' all refrigerator'......... 253.60721000 is on the tag ?? Where is the cold contol located now?? |
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Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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certified tech group 51 wrote: Installing foam on the exterior will not let the heat disipate as needed....It will make the exterior walls hotter.....You are changing the cold controls because?? Condenser coils in the walls, The discription sounds like a freezer....... The model number indicates an ' all refrigerator'......... 253.60721000 is on the tag ?? Where is the cold contol located now?? CTG51, He's changing the t-stat to keep it regulated at a high temp then a normal refrig is kept at so he can use it to ferment is home brew!!!!! This unit is an All Refrigerator. |
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BrntToast Sublime Master of Appliantology 
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friggy does indeed show an external condensor on parts breakdowns, intended for repair of internal highside leaks you cant cover the cabinet with insulation cause the fridge wont remove heat properly now.... to something nobody has addressed yet, you stated I know it's working because the panel in front of the interior evaporator coils is cold and has frost on it. that panel should NOT have visable frost on it, you might have a defrost problem with the unit, this would explain poor cooling and temp fluctuations |
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sbdivemaster Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Hmm, for some reason I stopped getting emails for follow-up posts....  Just to address some of the recent postings: The model number is directly off the tag. It is a freezerless unit. The sides do get hot, so I suspect BAR is correct that the coils are on the sides. The frost buildup is very, very minor, and isn't always present, so I figure the defrost is working correctly. OK Been learning some new stuff. My first error was taking my temp readings off the air inside the refrigerator. After adding the two 5-gallon carboys (big, glass bottles) filled with water, I lowered the internal thermostat back to "1" (warmest setting), and let it sit for 24 hours. I also added just a pint glass with water and stuck a lab thermometer in there. A whole world of difference! The water in the pint glass was like slush, and the carboys read 32-34˚F! That's cold for the lowest setting! I just checked again (garage temp is 108˚F) and the slush is still in the glass. This thing stays cold! There will be no need for extra insulation. I even have it hooked up to a Kill-A-Watt and it has used 11.3 kWh in 123 hours (~27 cents/day), so it's not an electricity hog either. It will use the most electricity during this time of year, and then taper off as fall approaches. Given that I'm going to be running it in the 60's most of the time, I figure it will cost less than $25/year to brew in it. Now I am more concerned what will happen in the winter. LOL Nah, I can just unplug the refrigerator and put a carboy heater in there and attach that to the ETC. Samurai Sensei, BAR, RegUS, ctg 51, and Toast, I thank you all for your input and ideas. I'm finally getting back into brewing after about 10 years off. The first batches should be ready next month sometime. If any of you are in the Santa Barbara/Ojai area this fall, send an email, and you can try out a pint or two. Samurai Sensei, I will contact you when it's ready and I will send off a sample in appreciation of your help and for providing this most excellent forum. Arigato gozaimashita! |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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