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| Spins while draining | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Sat Apr 16th, 2005 02:41 pm |
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1st Post |
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JPinPA Grasshopper
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Hi all, Our Kenmore (Whirlpool) washer manufactured in 1999 is starting to spin immediately when any drain cycle begins. After reading other threads it is obvious it shouldn't be doing this. What should be checked or replaced to correct this issue? Thanks in advance, JPinPA Last edited on Mon Apr 18th, 2005 03:59 pm by JPinPA |
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| Posted: Sat Apr 16th, 2005 02:46 pm |
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2nd Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology 
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JPinPA wrote: After reading other threads it is obvious it shouldn't be doing this. Not necessarily. Not all theses washers were made with the neutral drain feature. What's your model number?
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Sat Apr 16th, 2005 03:45 pm |
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3rd Post |
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Mad Mac Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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The very early direct drive models were spin drain, the neutral drain came in about 1985. I'm not aware of any spin drain models having been made as recently as 1999...unless, of course, someone knows different!
____________________ Mad Mac....Pray to God he's out there....somewhere. |
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| Posted: Sat Apr 16th, 2005 06:52 pm |
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4th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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This is true, but we're going on a guessed age-- I've seen these off by decades. Won't know for sure 'till we get the model number.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Sun Apr 17th, 2005 12:50 pm |
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5th Post |
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JPinPA Grasshopper
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man wrote: Not necessarily. Not all theses washers were made with the neutral drain feature. What's your model number? Model 110.26912691 We bought it new from Sears in '99 when we built our house. Thanks Last edited on Sun Apr 17th, 2005 12:53 pm by JPinPA |
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| Posted: Sun Apr 17th, 2005 03:19 pm |
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6th Post |
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Mad Mac Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Internal transmission issue - our resident guru on this topic, Mr. Burk, will be pleased to advise once he reads this.
____________________ Mad Mac....Pray to God he's out there....somewhere. |
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| Posted: Sun Apr 17th, 2005 10:32 pm |
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7th Post |
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JPinPA Grasshopper
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I await our guru's response. Many thanks Jay
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| Posted: Sun Apr 17th, 2005 11:11 pm |
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8th Post |
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XNSXMANNY Master Appliantologist
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pull it apart and look at your clutch 99% of the time it is a worn out clutch rather than the tranmission, at least in my experiance.
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| Posted: Mon Apr 18th, 2005 01:59 pm |
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9th Post |
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JPinPA Grasshopper
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...99% of the time it is a worn out clutch rather than the tranmission... What indication of a worn clutch mechanism (as opposed to transmission) am I looking for? Again, Thanks Jay
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| Posted: Mon Apr 18th, 2005 02:07 pm |
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10th Post |
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Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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No, No, No, Manny, he said it spins fine, the problem is that it is agitating while it's spinning, (Machine in spin cycle). You most likely have a bad internal transmission part, (the agitate cam is worn so as when the transmission shifts out of agitate the agitate gear is not disengaged all the way so machine continues to agitate while spinning also). It's only a $12.00 part, not that hard of a job if your mechanically inclined. May be a little difficult for someone who has never opened one of these transmissions before. Here's a link to the part CLICK HERE You also don't need the expensive locktite gasket eliminator sealant that they suggest, just clean old thin layer of locktite material from transmission cover and lower case and use a thin bead of Blue automotive gasket material in tube, (can be purchased at any autoparts store). Attached, if this works right, should be a picture of the transmission breakdown. Part ref#13 & 14 are the parts that will need to be replaced. They come together as a kit. William Burk (Willie) Willie's Budget Appliance Repair Eureka, CA 95501 Attachment: Whirlpool_NeutralDrainTrans.jpeg (Downloaded 77 times)
____________________ William Burk (Willie) Willie's Budget Appliance Repair Eureka, CA 95501 |
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| Posted: Mon Apr 18th, 2005 03:59 pm |
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11th Post |
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JPinPA Grasshopper
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No, No, No, Manny, he said it spins fine, the problem is that it is agitating while it's spinning, (Machine in spin cycle). Whoa, The machine agitates fine (no spinning during aggitation - no aggitation during spin). The problem is that spinning starts straight off the bat as the washer begins to drain. This unit should have neutral drain. (Don't want to get to far afield)... Thanks, Jay Last edited on Mon Apr 18th, 2005 04:03 pm by JPinPA |
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| Posted: Mon Apr 18th, 2005 07:09 pm |
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12th Post |
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XNSXMANNY Master Appliantologist
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ooooops disregaurd my clutch advise.....for some reason i was thinking that it wasnt spining.... thanks for pointing that out willie
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| Posted: Mon Apr 18th, 2005 07:45 pm |
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13th Post |
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JPinPA Grasshopper
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Tried sending this email, but it bounced... Hi, I just want to make sure we're all on the same page. The washer agitates fine (no spinning during agitation) (a good thing) After agitation cycle there is a short pause (a good thing) The drain cycle starts - AND the machine begins to spin with a full basket of water (contrary to expected neutral drain behavior) (a not good thing) There is no agitation during spin (a good thing) Thanks, Jay Last edited on Mon Apr 18th, 2005 07:46 pm by JPinPA |
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| Posted: Tue Apr 19th, 2005 11:03 am |
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14th Post |
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Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Well, looks like I blew that one too. I could have sworn that I read that it was agitating while spinning?????? Anyway, you have a neutral drain problem. Or possibly no problem at all. I was running into lots of these, I would let them agitate for a minute or two then let it go into drain/spin mode and was all the time seeing them do what your describing. I asked about it on our old forum and someone directed me to a service bulletin about this. Whirlpool says you must let the machine agitate for at least 10 minutes before neutral drain will work correctly, the oil needs to warm up and thin out for the neutral drain components to operate correctly. Have had much better luck seeing neutral drain operate correctly when doing as described above. If you continue to have the problem there are only two different parts kits to order to replace all things to do with neutral drain in the tranmission. One is the "Neutral drain pak kit" contains all parts that attach to top of main drive gear. The other is the "Main Spin gear/spin pinion gear kit" contains the plastic spin gear inside tranmission and spin pinion that sticks up through top of case and clutch attaches to. I've never been able to determine what actually is bad in the two kits except maybe the little bump on the under side of the plastic spin gear maybe wears down a little that is hardly even noticable and maybe doesn't active the neutral drain latch correctly. I really don't know. Also, you can run the machine this way and probably have no other problems for quite sometime, except for maybe wearing the clutch out quicker. The old first direct drive machines didn't have the neutral drain and went directly into spin while pumping out. (Just harder on the drive coupler and clutch).
____________________ William Burk (Willie) Willie's Budget Appliance Repair Eureka, CA 95501 |
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| Posted: Wed Apr 20th, 2005 04:55 am |
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15th Post |
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mopar X Master Appliantologist 
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revised neutral drain part numbers from Whirlpool Attachment: UD14_LPFQI_A.pdf (Downloaded 23 times)
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