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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Kenmore Bottom-Mount Refrigerator, Model No. 596.62832200 |
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| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, Pegi | ||
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reslcs Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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I purchased a Kenmore Bottom-Mount Refrigerator, Model No. 596.62832200 in June 2002. About a year ago, the freezer started having water leak out onto the floor. This happened after a puddle froze on the bottom and new water was not captured there. I could not figure out what was wrong, but removing the ice allowed us to go a few weeks without the puddle in the kitchen. I know, that's pathetic. About 3 months ago, the puddles stopped. Instead, the freezer started working poorly. Eventually it no longer kept things frozen. Inside the freezer, I took the panel off the back and found the radiator was full of compact "snow". I'm not sure why this water is even in the freezer, but I know that it meant nothing would work well. We melted it all and the freezer worked fine - until it happened again. We'd done this about 3 more times before going to Sears. They suggested changing the defrost timer, part 67001036. We bought it and I installed it in the fridge just above and behind the two lamps. It seemed to work the same and did not change anything. I'm hoping to find out... 1. How did all that water get into the freezer? Where should it go (instead of on the bottom of the freezer and then onto the floor)? 2. Why did ice stop forming in the bottom of the freezer? 3. Why does the snow pack into the "radiator" at the back of the freezer? 4. What parts and steps do I need to fix all this? Thank you! |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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1) Water came from the frost on the Evaporator Coils when the Defrost was working and the Drain was frozen. Use hair-dryer, hot water, and a flexible wire to un-clog Drain. 2) & 3) Defrost stopped working ... 4) remove Evaporator cover and test Defrost Heater (about 30 OHMS) and Defrost Terminator bi-metal switch on top rung of Evaporator Coils (closed when cold) may be similar Amana ABB1921DEQ Tech Sheet may be similar Amana ABB1921DEQ Service Manual Last edited on Sat Jun 20th, 2009 03:40 pm by RegUS_PatOff |
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reslcs Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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Thank you for the info! The heater registered about 35 ohms. The switch is open when warm. I'm going to find a way to make it cold now... I'm guessing that working on a "top mount" freezer might be a bit easier. |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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reslcs wrote: ... The switch is open when warm. I'm going to find a way to make it cold now... it may have to get colder than 15F edit > maybe colder than +30F Last edited on Sun Jun 21st, 2009 12:43 am by RegUS_PatOff |
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reslcs Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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Thanks for the update about the switch temp below 30+ degF. I was not able to get the switch to close. I submerged it in ice water (not cold enough or maybe the switch is broken). I could not see a way to remove the switch without cutting the wire, so I've left it in the freezer for now. I don't think it will matter, but I connected a ground strap that was near the defrost heater. The good news is the drain is clear. Bad news is it's good for nothing until the defrost works. I'll be back. |
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reslcs Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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Thanks to a new thermostat, the freezer (and fridge) now work like new. Before replacing the thermostat, I cut the old one out of the freezer, spliced in a light switch where the thermostat would have been, applied power, and used the switch to test the defrost heater. I used two pieces of wire about 2 feet each to get the switch out into the main freezer area. That was very satisfying to let it defrost the snow instead of me. Because it worked, I purchased the replacement thermostat on-line. It came within a week and I installed it. So far so good. This is probably an obvious repair, but it was the first time I've done it. It was not that hard. I bought a replacement door gasket at the same time. |
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