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GE 5 Cycle Dryer - DBXR453ET2WW  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Sat Jun 13th, 2009 11:40 pm
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skipdog77
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Looking for advice on an aging dryer :) :

Dryer squeeks and carries on randomly.  When I push with my hand in the back where the rear drum bearing is it tends to stop.  Then it comes back after a while.  I figure I probably need a Rear Drum Bearing Kit?  I'm also wondering if I should go ahead and do the 4 glides at the same time?  Any other stuff while i'm in there?

The other big problem is it seems the moisture sensor has stopped working.  When placing the dryer on automatic (the *) the dryer runs on till we manually stop it.  I've tried the timer settings and the timer seems to be fine.  Any pointers on where this is located and whether a cleaning should fix it?

On a side note - went to Lowes and Sears today looking at the new front loaders (wow expensive) -- did they ever solve all of the mildew problems with the washer units?  The Samsung and Bosch units did look nice.

Thanks!

Skip

p.s. could someone point me to the right dissassembly guide for this unit? (would it be considered the newer style GE dryer?)

Last edited on Sat Jun 13th, 2009 11:45 pm by skipdog77

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 Posted: Sun Jun 14th, 2009 02:28 am
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Moostafa
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Hello, my squeaky friend. Typically, noise sources in these dryers are revealed by simple inspection. You will need to partially disassemble the dryer to see the source of the noise. The rear drum bearing, as you mentioned, is a common noisemaker. And for the few additional pennies, it is recommended that you replace the front front drum support glides at the same time.

Dryer disassembly help (use the new style GE instructions)

Front drum glides

Drum rear bearing kit


As for the problem with cycle termination in the automatic cycle, replace the cycling and hi-limit thermostats.

Thermostats



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 Posted: Sun Jun 14th, 2009 03:53 am
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BrntToast
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if one of the 2 heaters in a GE dryer is broken the machine will still dry, but it takes longer and... the timer will not advance in the automatic cycle, so have a close look at both heater coils while you have the drum out to change the back bearing

 



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 Posted: Sun Jun 14th, 2009 03:53 am
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skipdog77
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Moostafa,

Thanks very much for your reply.  Is it your understanding that this unit does not have the moisture sensor at the front (right inside near the lent collection) ?  I looked and I don't see any silver lines on this unit.  It seems my dryer is unable to tell when the load of laundry is dry or wet.

I will be taking it apart for inspection!

Skippy

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 Posted: Sun Jun 14th, 2009 03:55 am
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skipdog77
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BrntToast,

Is there an easy way to tell if either one is broken while it is apart? 

Skip

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 Posted: Sun Jun 14th, 2009 04:24 am
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skipdog77 wrote: Is there an easy way to tell if either one is broken while it is apart? 
a good close inspection ..

OR with a meter:

If you have a Harbor Freight Store near you,
they have these meters, normally $ 4.99, w/battery
but sometimes on sale for $ 2.99
if on sale, print sale page and take to store

 

click on picture





click on picture


OR this one

click on picture



 

You could also probably use a few of these:

click on picture $ 2.99


 

I don't have a wiirng diagram for that model, and I don't think it uses a Moisture Sensor,
it stops the Timer until the Heat satisfies the Operating Thermostat

If only one of the Heating Elements is working, it may never reach Operating Temperature...



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 Posted: Sun Jun 14th, 2009 04:30 am
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skipdog77
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RegUS_PatOff,

Thanks that makes a lot of sense. I was reading another post that mentioned checking some silver connections but I dont have these connections. The timer makes sense. I will check both heating elements as well.

Skip

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 Posted: Thu Jun 18th, 2009 06:15 pm
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skipdog77
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OK,

I have the dryer in pieces. I am trying to locate the proper location to test for continuity. Also, based on Moostafa's recommendation of the thermostats -- do i need four of these, or just two --Cycling and Hi limit thermostat.

I will try to upload picture of the back end of the dryer.

Skip

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 Posted: Thu Jun 18th, 2009 06:38 pm
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skipdog77
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OK, Newbie at work here.. Here is the picture with the element. I am trying to verify test points for resistance... Trying to narrow down why the unit continues to run in auto mode.

Attachment: TestingElement.jpg (Downloaded 62 times)

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 Posted: Thu Jun 18th, 2009 06:42 pm
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skipdog77
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Wow, upon reinspection - the top element is broken. Found the break.. Duh!!

I see a coil kit and the whole thing.. Will get prices..

If I just get the coil kit - do I need to remove the heating element housing to replace all of the hardware?  Also, how do the individual hardware tabs come off the housing? I have been wiggling them gently, but I havent seen how it comes off.

Skip

Last edited on Thu Jun 18th, 2009 07:37 pm by skipdog77

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 Posted: Thu Jun 18th, 2009 07:56 pm
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With only one Heater working, it never reaches temperature to satisfy the Operating themostat,
which when it opens, allows the Timer to advance when the Auto Cycle mode is used....

I don't think you have to remove the housing to re-string the Element.

 



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 Posted: Thu Jun 18th, 2009 09:43 pm
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skipdog77
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Can someone point me to the procedure to replace the drum bearing? I ordered a drum bearing kit, and i'm not sure - do you start the repair from the back side of the dryer, or do you need to remove the heating element enclosure?

Also, I need some guidance on the Dryer Drum Slides.  Two of my slides(glides) are white, while the other two are slightly dull blue.  They look very similar to each other. When I look at repair clinic it shows a white one and what looks like black - i guess it could be blue.  Can anyone confirm the GE part numbers I need?


When I reference the GE part numbers for the glides, it comes up RED and WHITE .. Very unsure what I need at this point.


Skip

Last edited on Thu Jun 18th, 2009 10:00 pm by skipdog77

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 Posted: Fri Jun 19th, 2009 12:09 am
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the blue glides go in the top, the whites on the outside

to replace the bearing kit you need to remove the drum but not the heater element i believe(been awhile since ive done one)



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 Posted: Fri Jun 19th, 2009 06:53 pm
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skipdog77
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Ok, one more question -- getting close to buttoning this thing back up.

I am getting the drum bearing kit today. I notice that the old drum parts had what looked like some red material. The parts place claimed I didnt need anything. I'm not sure they are right. In the picture you can see some material clearly on the drum bearing connection.

Questions:

1) Do I lube everywhere? Both around the rear drum bearing
2) Do I just apply the lube where the rear drum goes into?

Sorry - it might seem obvious, but I have received mixed answers.

Skip

Attachment: DSC_0250.jpg (Downloaded 46 times)

Last edited on Sat Jun 20th, 2009 03:54 am by skipdog77

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 Posted: Sat Jun 20th, 2009 04:12 am
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skipdog77
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Trying to get this buttoned up tonight - if anyone knows whether I should forgo the lube, or generously apply, please shoot me a quick message.

Skip

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 Posted: Sat Jun 20th, 2009 12:31 pm
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Hope you didn't purchase the complete rear drum bearing kit, yours looks in real good shape, the white plastic/nylon piece is the only thing you would really need to replace in your case becuase it hasn't worn down and ran metal to metal.  The little o-ring on the end of the shaft is all that's holding it on.

Just a real thin dap of wheel bearing grease on the shaft would be ok.  You don't really want a bunch of grease that's going to catch all the lint and gum things up.  For the most part everyone would problably tell you not to grease it at all, but if you don't go overboard, a little grease will extend the life of the nylon bearing.  Again, yours doesn't look worn at all.



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 Posted: Tue Jun 23rd, 2009 01:04 am
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skipdog77
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William,

Here is the thing. The dryer hasn't been opened in 13 years. I was amazed by the amount of crap in the bottom and also when I took the deflector off!! Holy crap! The shop vac was working overtime cleaning this thing out.

So, I spent way too much on the dryer. I ended up ordering a drum bearing kit, but realized later I didn't need the whole kit. Worse yet, I replaced the entire heating element assembly and probably only needed to replace the elements. Bummer.. I don't want to revisit this for a while. That is why I say I spent way too much. The new heater assembly had the other side of the drum bearing stuff.. I also replaced the belt while I was at it. I replaced all of the glides as well. I did not replace the tensioner because it looked OK.

So I spent about 200$ in parts but paid no labor, and didn't have to wait for Sears or some other repair place to come out.

I thank everyone here for the pointers, it worked out great! I ended up partly removing the left side so I could easily get the belt back on -- what a pain without partially removing the left panel.

The dryer is quiet, and drying clothes !! Success!!

Skip

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 Posted: Tue Jun 23rd, 2009 02:34 am
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skipdog77
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Well I spoke too soon!

The timer / heating problem is definitely fixed!

But the cricket noise is still there. When I use my hand to push on the back - pretty much anywhere, the noise goes away and eventually comes back. I replaced the drum bearing and all associated stuff. I also replaced the glides or slides. I'm at a loss at what is causing this mysterious noise.

Skip

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 Posted: Tue Jun 23rd, 2009 06:09 am
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G.E. dryers are rather fussy.  Sort of lift up on each corner a little and see if noise goes away - these puppies like to be level, square, flat , solid , perfect. Also , open the door and with fingers pull drum forward as far as possible . If noise still there , take apart and have another look-see. You did the right thing replacing the whole element - other part would go sooner or later.

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 Posted: Tue Jun 23rd, 2009 06:17 am
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skipdog77
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It's funny because when I push on the back the noise immediately goes away. I will check balance.

Skip

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