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How to Replace Maytag Adaptive Frost Module?

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Posted: Sat Jun 13th, 2009 05:57 pm

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rsmigel
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist

Joined:	Thu Jan 12th, 2006
Location:	Duncan, South Carolina USA
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Frig is 10+ years old but has begun frosting up the evaporative coil, blocking airflow. A manual defrost has the frig/freezer working well again... for a while. I suspect it is the defrost module and bought a new one.

I popped the plastic cover down from the top of the frig but do not see the module.

Can anyone give me step by step directions as to the replacement?

Thanks in advance.

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Posted: Sat Jun 13th, 2009 06:06 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

Joined:	Sat Sep 24th, 2005
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there's also a 5-page discussion thread here

how to install my new adaptive defrost control board

# 13 in this diagram

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Posted: Sun Jun 14th, 2009 03:15 am

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3^rd Post

rsmigel
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist

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Thanks Reg,

Back in 2005, you wrote:

"sorry, it's been awhile since I've took it apart.

loosen the (2) big-flat-head screws, one behind each light socket, then slide cover to the right.

Last edited on Mon Nov 7th, 2005 17:34 by RegUS_PatOff"

Looking at the schematic, after removing the plastic part #21, are you saying that the (2) big flat head screws are holding plastic part #1? I'm still having some trouble getting off part #21.

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Posted: Sun Jun 14th, 2009 04:06 am

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4^th Post

RegUS_PatOff
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for part # 21 ... near bottom of page (2):

"Remove the top shelf inside the beer compartment..."

what to do with all this beer, what to do.....

thanks, got it, but no screws on this model, not much finesse either.

The trick was to "bow" the plate while pulling down and forward on both sides at once.

Last edited on Thu Oct 6th, 2005 11:50 PM by RegUS_PatOff

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Posted: Sun Jun 14th, 2009 02:50 pm

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rsmigel
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Thanks again Reg for the quick reply.

There are (3) 1/4" hex head screws holding the assy up; two near the front door pointing upward and one to the right of the water filter pointing to the rear. Then there are (2) Phillips head screws behind the light bulbs. After removing those (5) screws, the entire top assembly drops down and the Adaptive Frost Module is easily popped out from the top.

I looked at my old board and the 22uF/50V capacitor is clearly blown. I'll replace that and use it as a spare. Radio Shack doesn't carry this exact cap so I'll pick it up on the Bay.

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Posted: Sun Jun 14th, 2009 02:58 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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R.S. 22 @ 35 should work for a while ...

the problem seems to be the 120 volt spikes at times ... unless zener diodes are added ...

newer ADC is completely re-designed ..

RS 100 @ 50 would also work, but may be a but large physically

Last edited on Sun Jun 14th, 2009 03:07 pm by RegUS_PatOff

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Posted: Mon Jun 15th, 2009 02:39 am

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7^th Post

rsmigel
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist

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Location:	Duncan, South Carolina USA
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I just picked up (25) 22uFx50V on the Bay for $4.90 including shipping.

Is the failure humidity related or only the result of the spikes? If it is 'spikes' then it's doomed to fail again. Otherwise I could dip the board in the rubber handle goop, or at a minimum, epoxy the cap using an old paint brush.

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Posted: Mon Jun 15th, 2009 03:43 am

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8^th Post

RegUS_PatOff
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Joined:	Sat Sep 24th, 2005
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I'm not sure if it's humidity related or the spikes...

I had a few boards to work with, so I tried dipping one of them into some other electronic goop,
but it never seemed to fully dry,as far as the 120v was concerned..

It never worked after that.

After replacing the cap, it may last a few years...

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