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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > GE Quiet Wisper 3 Dishwasher - GLD6500L00BB |
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| GE Quiet Wisper 3 Dishwasher - GLD6500L00BB | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Tue Jun 2nd, 2009 01:14 am |
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1st Post |
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mikecimi Grasshopper
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Hi, My dishwasher is not working any more. The start/reset light will blink (no other led's illuminated) for a over a minute and then reverts to normal. You can choose your cycle and options, but when you push start, nothing happens. About a week ago, I cleaned all 3 sprayer arms and the filter since it wasn't cleaning very well. Everything worked like new after the cleaning for 3 days. Here is what I have tried to far: 1) Turned off power for an hour, no change 2) Got into the diagnostics mode (Thank You Samurai) and tried to turn on each component individually. Nothing will turn on, no water, no pumps, no heater. 3) Setup the F1 test and after turning it back on, nothing happened. It's like it's not communicating right, is it the control board? Thanks
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| Posted: Tue Jun 2nd, 2009 01:15 pm |
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2nd Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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mikecimi wrote:
Do you have the service manual or tech sheet for this dishwasher? More importantly, do you have the wiring diagram or schematic? We'll need that to test for voltage output from the control board while in diagnostics mode, turning on individual component. No voltage output == bad control board (or relay on the board).
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Tue Jun 2nd, 2009 05:41 pm |
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3rd Post |
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mikecimi Grasshopper
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I tested the main and aux pumps along with the water valve and all 3 have 125V coming out of the circuit board. I have uploaded the wiring diagram, hopefully that helps. Thanks Attachment: scan0001.gif (Downloaded 11 times)
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| Posted: Tue Jun 2nd, 2009 06:17 pm |
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4th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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mikecimi wrote: I tested the main and aux pumps along with the water valve and all 3 have 125V coming out of the circuit board. I have uploaded the wiring diagram, hopefully that helps. Ahh, so the board is doing it's thang but the other stuff ain't doing their thangs. Sounds like a problem in the wiring harness. May have broken wires at the harness where it bends under the door. Could check continuity of the wires from the board to the respective components.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Tue Jun 2nd, 2009 06:55 pm |
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5th Post |
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mikecimi Grasshopper
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All wires passed a visual inspection, no bare wire, fraying, pinching. I was able to test voltage at the ends of the main pump and water valve and they both read 125V. I can't reach the other pump very easily, but since these other 2 checked out fine I'm guessing it will check out as well. I also checked the resistance on the main pump and water valve. The main pump should be 10 ohms and I read 12.8, but I have a cheap tester so maybe that is causing the variance? The water valve read 1018 which is between the acceptable range of 725-1200.
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| Posted: Tue Jun 2nd, 2009 07:39 pm |
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6th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Wait a minute... you're getting good voltage to the valve and motor but they ain't valvin' and motorin'? Sumpin ain't raht! Either you misread the meter or the neutral is dropping out. Ohm out that neutral wire all the way back to the power junction box behind the kickplate.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Tue Jun 2nd, 2009 08:20 pm |
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7th Post |
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mikecimi Grasshopper
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I think you have found the problem. I started testing the neutral from the the control board and the first stop is the door latch. There are 2 of these devices in the latch http://www.toneluck.com/pdf/MQS-216.pdf One for the hot and one for the neutral. You can't see it in the link, but there is a little button that gets pressed on each of these switches when the door is closed. The one for the hot, clicks and has continuity and the one for the neutral doesn't click and has no continuity. Now I just need to find that part, any suggesstions? Thanks!
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| Posted: Tue Jun 2nd, 2009 08:26 pm |
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8th Post |
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mikecimi Grasshopper
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Found the part, I'll post back if it doesn't work. Thank You
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| Posted: Tue Jun 2nd, 2009 08:36 pm |
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9th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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This Door Interlock Switch as shown in the Parts list at ReapirClinic ? click on picture ![]()
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Wed Jun 3rd, 2009 04:06 pm |
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10th Post |
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mikecimi Grasshopper
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The part just got here and everything works great, Thanks for the help. Now for the icemaker
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