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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Kenmore 417.42042100 shock absorber leaking

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Kenmore 417.42042100 shock absorber leaking  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Fri May 1st, 2009 04:30 pm
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Learning2
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This Frigidaire / Kenmore FL has excess vibration / knocking at high spin speeds.  I do not hear any "whoosing" sounds or "jet taking off noises" I have read about on other related posts for this machine.
The rear weight seems secure, no wobble in the pulley (after I removed the belt), no grease from a failing bearing / seal, I hear no eveil when spinning the drum by hand - nothing looks out of order except some fluid (viscous, dark, no odor) looks like it leaked out of one of the shocks.  These shocks are round (like a miniature automobile shock) - not rectangular like the ones I see at the parts site.  Perhaps the round one was (another) poor design?
The new part:
http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-417.42042100-%3d%3dc285i1156908&PartID=1156908

So I figure replace the shocks and perhaps I will be lucky and get a few more years from this 2002 (manufacture), 2003 (installed) machine?
Thanks.

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 Posted: Fri May 1st, 2009 04:43 pm
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Learning2 wrote: ..  Perhaps the round one was (another) poor design?..
perhaps..



The original 417.42042100 Parts Manual listed 131268200

RepairClinic says: "The manufacturer has replaced part number 131268200 with this item, part number 134564200"

do you need the service manual ?



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 Posted: Fri May 1st, 2009 04:46 pm
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Learning2
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I think the service manual would be handy to have on hand.

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 Posted: Fri May 1st, 2009 04:49 pm
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Tumble Action Washers with AC Drive Motor (5995369211)  



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 Posted: Fri May 1st, 2009 05:33 pm
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Learning2
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Thanks! 
I ordered the part and now am off to my local NAPA to buy a little Sil-Glide lube for the bushings.  That's what the service manual specified.

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 Posted: Fri May 1st, 2009 07:05 pm
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shadetree
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FWIW: I've replaced a couple of those and getting the pin out of the mounts can be a booger.

If you take a socket, like a 13mm or 1/2", and push it on to the tapered end of the pin, the socket will depress the little locking tab that is on the taper, at the same time push the pin in. Should be able to grab the head of the pin with your other hand or pliers and pull it on out.

Tree

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 Posted: Sat May 2nd, 2009 05:51 am
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We old arthritic people use locking vice grips instead of pliers.:D

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 Posted: Wed May 6th, 2009 01:32 am
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Learning2
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I replaced the shocks.  On fast spin the vibration is less - but still there.  After re-re-reading previous posts on this issue, I finally figured out how to manhandle the inner drum relative to the outer drum to try to detect a broken spider.  (Remember the pulley seemed very nice and snug. And no bearing leaks or noise.) 

So I conclude I almost certainly have a broken spider.  I realize I am guessing a bit.  To avoid good money and time after bad - I think it is time to junk this machine and start over with a new machine.

It has to fit under a 36" counter top so that eliminates Stabler and Duet leaving the Duet Sport and Frigidaire.  I am going to post separetly on a recomendation.

Thanks.

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 Posted: Sun May 17th, 2009 09:52 pm
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Learning2
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Postscript:  I forensically torn apart the washer today so I could:  see if my diagnosis of a broken spider was correct; make it lighter so I could get it out to the garage in anticipation of the new machine’s arrival; salvage some parts since my MIL has the same machine: and besides – it’s fun tearing stuff apart if you don’t have to put it back together!
Yes – one of the spider arms was broken so that was the problem.  The entire spider was very corroded.  All those bits of corrosion break off, pass through the pump (shortening it’s life?), presumably get on the clothes a bit and hopefully build up in the coin trap.  
The coin trap was full of sand, gukus and corrosion bits.   If you do any repairs to this machine – perhaps any machine with such a coin trap - I would suggest cleaning this coin trap out.
The bearing was solid – no problems at all.
How to “guess diagnose” a broken spider.  After re-re-reading previous posts (thanks to you all) on how to “guess” the spider is broken (it is a guess until you lay eyes on it) I figured out a procedure you pros already know to check – from the front:  Remove the lower panel.  Rotate the drum until a vane is at the 7 o’clock position.  With left hand grab the outer drum (you can get a good grip on the weight) and hold it steady.  With the right hand grab the vane and see if there is any play in the drum.  There should be none (relative to the outer drum).  Then rotate the drum so the next vane is at 7 o’clock and check that one.  Then do the third one.  In my case one leg of the spider was fractured so one of these trys was a little looser than the other two.  This technique may work for you because the spider attached to the drum at the same spot as the vanes.

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 Posted: Mon May 18th, 2009 03:09 pm
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What brand/ model did you purchase???

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 Posted: Thu Jun 4th, 2009 07:24 am
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davidg
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Verify your warranty on the tub and basket. Many of these had 10 a ten year warranty on the tub and some had life on the basket. make sure!

Check out the Sears Service Smart Agreement product.

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