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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag LAT9406AAE washer Agitator Shaft comes all the way out

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Maytag LAT9406AAE washer Agitator Shaft comes all the way out  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sun Apr 12th, 2009 11:04 am
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Budget Appliance Repair
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Firecat, don't go do any pounding on the tub, that all looks like it should.

And, for Phyguy, if you only paid $35 for the mounting stem/seal kit then most likely it is an aftermarket part.  If it where genuine Maytag it would be in a blue and white bag or box with Maytag written on the box.  If it's a new one packaged as a Whirlpool part it would be in a red and white bag with FSP stamped on the bag.

I won't use the aftermarket mounting stem/seal kit because of major problems I've had and heard of others having with these.




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 Posted: Sun Apr 12th, 2009 01:32 pm
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phyguy
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Gotta pull out the Cannon manual to figure out the macro thing...

the angle is deceptive in that this looks a little cocked. in reality, it's sitting pretty true.

Attachment: IMG_0550.jpg (Downloaded 44 times)

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 Posted: Sun Apr 12th, 2009 01:58 pm
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phyguy
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Sorry to thread jack the original issue...
"Caveat emptor"
 The bag and packaging is at the dump already but from what I remember, it was just a clear bag with no markings or instructions.
 
1 x Maytag Mounting Stem & Tub Seal Repair Kit 22204012 W10116791 (22204012
Repair Kit)  = $31.43

 
Full disclosure...since the bearing from xxx was backordered for 6 weeks got the genuine Maytag from the local repair shop. Thinking it could be a tolerance issue? Never mix and match!
 
Will get the real part on Monday and try again. Will not let this thing beat me just as a matter of principle even though the wife wants a new front load at this point.
 
Happy Easter to all and thanks for the help.

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 Posted: Sun Apr 12th, 2009 07:07 pm
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denrayr
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Budget Appliance Repair wrote: Firecat, don't go do any pounding on the tub, that all looks like it should.



this clearly shows the difference. I cant think of anything else that would throw it out of allignment. He admits to pounding the bearing into the tub. Im glad to have a second opinion on this, what else do you think could account for the gap?

 

 

Attachment: difference.jpg (Downloaded 44 times)



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 Posted: Mon Apr 13th, 2009 10:31 am
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Budget Appliance Repair
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Yes, Denrayr, it certainly looks like the problem lays there from the side by side picture.

But, from looking at all the other pictures posted and looking at this logically, to remove the bearing you have to pound it out the opposite direction which if anything would smash the already normally indented up tub out and thus the tub bearing would bottom out on the top of the transmission before the tub bolts lined up.

Now, taking the old bearing out is usually the area where a foot or pounding of the old bearing is needed to make it come out.  Putting new bearing back in isn't usually a problem, they just push back in nice smooth and tight.

If you were to really pound the new bearing in, and actually dented the bottom of the tub in further then it normally is, I would have to believe there would have to be signs of the outer tub buckling in other areas or cracked porcelain from the damage and I don't see any signs of that........

From the close up picture of the brake pak and retainer clip, I'm still not totally convinced the brake pak didn't unscrew a thread or two, (those threads are real course and the first one or two that is showing in the picture could have been up inside where they don't actually engage the threads in the lower base to make a missing corrosion  mark, see the big gap - I believe that lip is about 1/8" before the actual threads start in the lower base.).

Last edited on Mon Apr 13th, 2009 10:40 am by Budget Appliance Repair



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 Posted: Mon Apr 13th, 2009 01:42 pm
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phyguy
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This will help if you have the same capacity. I have model LAT23000AAF.
 
Tub diameter measured from the inside  is approx 22.5" and it's 14.75 deep.
 
Measuring from the top of the tub to the top of the shaft, seeing 7.5"
 
If the outer tub is the same size, this will tell us if it's a slipped brake pack or bent tub.

Attachment: IMG_0552 (2).jpg (Downloaded 39 times)

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 Posted: Wed Apr 15th, 2009 06:06 am
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kingsx
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My condolences on this pain of a job on this worthy machine.

here's my guess:

1. only use the real Maytag parts

2. I always sand the old shaft with emory cloth
and thick gloves as it spins...
before changing the brass bearing and seal
You have it all apart- I would do both kits.

3. Excellent point- after roughing up below the seal,
you can't expect true sealing now,
without rubber cement or silicone.

4. I doubt you really bent the drum.

5. first make sure the lower rubber seal is glued and twisted down tight
then when you screw the upper carbon seal dome on
make sure that is just compressing the spring so the carbon meets well,
and the set screw is not in one of the drain tracks
which are cut into the threaded hub when you tighten it.

my prayers are with you

jon

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 Posted: Fri Apr 17th, 2009 07:46 pm
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firecat53
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Thanks all for helping me! I've pretty paranoid about calling this fixed, but I think I finally got it. It doesn't leak and so far I haven't smelled any burning carbon seal. I think the balance is off a little (it sometimes - not always) wobbles more than was normal during spin, but not enough to make it unusable . There's also an occasional clunking noise from the transmission when it's agitating - again, not always.

Or maybe I'm just worrying too much about it!

Of course, right after I started testing it and ran the first load, the belt fell off of the dryer, so I had to spend 2 hours figuring out how to put the dryer belt back on!!

Anyway, so far so good, and I really appreciate all the input!!

Scott

Edit:  I did end up fixing the dryer, by the way :)

Last edited on Fri Apr 17th, 2009 08:18 pm by firecat53

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 Posted: Fri Apr 17th, 2009 08:09 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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 Posted: Sat Apr 18th, 2009 04:57 pm
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phyguy
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Firecat, what changed to prevent the Teflon from getting chewed up?

I think my washer is good to go but I'm not convinced that it was a result of getting a new original seal.

After disassembly and popping the bearing out to clean up my first silicone job, noticed that the outer tub bearing lip was a little jacked by almost .25". A level confirmed so a little 2x4 persuasion put it back true. This might of happened when I was rocking the tub to  break free the first frozen bearing?

New seal, plenty of silicone, 24 hr cure and still dry after 3 loads.

Thanks to all for the suggestions. Thank god that this was my in my house. Would of hated life if this was at a friends or family place. Took way too long to wrap this up. 

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 Posted: Sat Apr 18th, 2009 06:26 pm
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firecat53
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phyguy wrote:
Firecat, what changed to prevent the Teflon from getting chewed up?
I managed to change the alignment of the tub with respect to the transmission, I think, so I didn't have the big gap between the outer tub and the top of the transmission. Mine looks more like yours in the comparison pic between our washers that was posted awhile ago. I did end up banging on the tub a bit (probably shouldn't have, but I did it before some of you all said not to  <duck> ) but I also took care that when I secured the outer tub to the supports that it didn't walk upwards. So I'm not sure exactly what combination of things got it working.....and I'm horribly paranoid about claiming success :) I still walk by the washer after every load and sniff for burning carbon ...........

Scott

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