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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > LG LDS5811WW Diswasher problem but not throwing codes |
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| Moderated by: BrntToast, RegUS_PatOff, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! | Page: 1 2 3 4 |
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| LG LDS5811WW Diswasher problem but not throwing codes | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Sat Feb 14th, 2009 05:48 pm |
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41st Post |
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domer2k9 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I did get 120v between org. and brn. wires....I can run diag. but I'm not really sure what I should be looking for or at. The table has a lot of info and frankly I'm a lil confused.
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| Posted: Sat Feb 14th, 2009 09:30 pm |
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42nd Post |
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denrayr Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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the board is good. your next step is to check for voltage from orange to the brown and black wire connection at the door switch. if you have voltage here you will need to check for voltage at the heater. if you have voltage at the heater then the heater is bad. the diagram says there are 2 fuses but doesnt show where they are. it seems like they are part of the heater. when you are down in that area trace the brown and orange wires to see if there are any fuses.
____________________ RedRock Appliance Service 435-773-7838 http://www.redrockrepair.com Serving St George and Southern Utah |
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| Posted: Sun Feb 15th, 2009 05:16 am |
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43rd Post |
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domer2k9 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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good to hear the board is good....I'll get on that stuff tomorrow
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| Posted: Sun Feb 15th, 2009 02:40 pm |
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44th Post |
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domer2k9 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Voltage at brown and black at door switch = 120V....(my unit actually has black and orange at the door switch, not brown and orange... with two orange wires going to heater) Voltage at heater = 120V No inline fuses found When I run diag. I get a reading of 20/21 Celcius for temp (68 Faranheit) What is that taking temp of? I ran diagnostic for heater with the door open and door and heater switches jumped out. Heater does get warm with an electronic human thermometer....about 107 degrees F for the 10 second test.....So the heater looks good Last edited on Sun Feb 15th, 2009 04:14 pm by domer2k9 |
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| Posted: Sun Feb 15th, 2009 05:23 pm |
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45th Post |
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domer2k9 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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After viewing another post I tried running quick cycle........ Pumps out fills timer starts at 117 and pretty much hits a crawl at 115 at that point I added about 6 cups water and closed door DW pumped out excess timer at 114 motor runs for several seconds and stops for several more seconds motor runs for several seconds and stops for several more seconds this happens about 6 times and then motor will run for about 30-40 seconds then goes back into short cycles...... At that point I had to see what was going on inside so I jumped the door switches and let her go with the door open...... bottom sprayer barely spins and very low pressure for the short bursts as mentioned above.....I let it happen about 3 times and then stopped it. Only the bottom sprayer moved(barely) and had water coming out through all this the timer never got below 113
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| Posted: Tue Feb 17th, 2009 12:04 am |
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46th Post |
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domer2k9 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Does anyone know what should happen during the diagnostics for the lower nozzle and upper nozzle vario tests (3A & 3b on the top display)? I'm getting nothing at all...Anyone ever have problems with Vario system? Plese stay with me here....I realize that I'm not the most talented troubleshooter... Thanks
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| Posted: Tue Feb 17th, 2009 02:25 am |
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47th Post |
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denrayr Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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the vario system wont cause your issue. can you run the diagnostics test again and report the amp reading on the heater during the heater test? you verified 120v but i didnt see an amp reading.
____________________ RedRock Appliance Service 435-773-7838 http://www.redrockrepair.com Serving St George and Southern Utah |
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| Posted: Tue Feb 17th, 2009 11:08 am |
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48th Post |
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domer2k9 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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will do...but during diag. I did get 120V at the heater and it did heat up according to my digital thermometer. If that indicates anything. I'll get amp clamp from work today and report findings later.
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| Posted: Tue Feb 17th, 2009 03:38 pm |
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49th Post |
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denrayr Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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do you think it heats during diagnostic but not during the cycle? At this point the heater test should be done when the dishwasher is stalled during the cycle.
____________________ RedRock Appliance Service 435-773-7838 http://www.redrockrepair.com Serving St George and Southern Utah |
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| Posted: Wed Feb 18th, 2009 12:51 am |
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50th Post |
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domer2k9 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Couldn't get the amp clamp today..I'll try again tomorrow
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| Posted: Thu Feb 19th, 2009 12:15 am |
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51st Post |
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domer2k9 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Current through orange wire going to heater during diag. = 10.21A Current through orange wire going to heater during cycle never gets above 4.84A and that at the beginning after the fill....later on during the short bursts it never really went much higher than 4.5A..... Last edited on Thu Feb 19th, 2009 12:27 am by domer2k9 |
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| Posted: Thu Feb 19th, 2009 12:15 am |
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52nd Post |
telefunkenu47
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anyone think to question the motor? Have seen some fail in similar way.
____________________ Even root canal is easy...if you're a dentist... |
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| Posted: Thu Feb 19th, 2009 12:29 am |
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53rd Post |
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domer2k9 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Basically focusing on the heater. Any quick checks you recommend for the motor?
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| Posted: Thu Feb 19th, 2009 03:08 am |
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54th Post |
Scottthewolf
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I have this exact same model dishwasher I have to practically rebuild at LG's expense tomorrow. The wiring harness is broken down at the bottom of the door, the inner door liner is warped and the pump leaks. I can't wait. NOT!
____________________ Scott Wolf |
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| Posted: Thu Feb 19th, 2009 05:54 am |
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55th Post |
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denrayr Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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domer2k9 wrote: Current through orange wire going to heater during diag. = 10.21A that is really strange, when you say short bursts how long are these short bursts
____________________ RedRock Appliance Service 435-773-7838 http://www.redrockrepair.com Serving St George and Southern Utah |
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| Posted: Thu Feb 19th, 2009 11:09 am |
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56th Post |
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domer2k9 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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The short bursts are about 2 seconds....with the door open the water comes out of the bottom sprayer with the pressure of say a water fountain. Thats why I questioned that vario system which alternates water from bottom sprayer to top sprayer. It seems water is routed through some type of manifold like tray and it has a vario motor to do whatever the heck it does.
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| Posted: Thu Feb 19th, 2009 04:17 pm |
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57th Post |
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certified tech group 51 Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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My 1 1/2 cents worth ( inflation )............... Remove the lower spray arm and look into the lower wash tower, the little passages, are they clean/clear? Look at the pictures of a DW20 3251 ( on feb. 13 )...(I do not have your model number available)......the ports/ passages regulate the water levels...When i replaced the diverter valve, I was sent a new lower wash tower.....have you looked at the control board for any bad areas in the section of the board marked 5 dv.. Scottthewolf...................Keep us posted of the repair (inquiring minds want to know).....
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| Posted: Thu Feb 19th, 2009 04:34 pm |
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58th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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certified tech group 51 wrote: ... Look at the pictures of a DW20 3251 ( on feb. 13 )...(I do not have your model number available)...LG LDS5811WW Service Manual link on page 1
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Thu Feb 19th, 2009 10:26 pm |
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59th Post |
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denrayr Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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domer2k9 wrote:
So the heat only stays on 2 seconds at a time during the cycle but stays on during the diagnostic test? the vario system doesnt have anything to do witht he heat circuit. im leaning towards a control board issue at this point assuming it only cycles the heater for 2 seconds at a time. Last edited on Thu Feb 19th, 2009 10:35 pm by denrayr ____________________ RedRock Appliance Service 435-773-7838 http://www.redrockrepair.com Serving St George and Southern Utah |
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| Posted: Fri Feb 20th, 2009 04:43 pm |
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60th Post |
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certified tech group 51 Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Thanks RegU.S. Never keep your service manuals in the same color folders with out labeling them.........Makes one look foolish... ( and humble, I will bow out of this repair, who will listen to me now?)
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