|
|
Air Conditioners | Dehumidifiers | Dishwashers | Disposals | Dryers | Freezers | Humidifiers | Ice Makers | Microwave Ovens | Ovens, Ranges, Stoves | Refrigerators | Trash Compactors | Washers | Water Filters |
|
FAQs | Contact | Apprenticeship | Consultations | Parts | Model Number Help | Newsletter | Beer | Fixitnow.com
|
ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Kenmore Dryer will not spin but heat is on |
|
| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, BrntToast, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! |
|
|||||||||||||
| Kenmore Dryer will not spin but heat is on | Rate Topic |
| Author | Post |
|---|
| Posted: Thu Jul 14th, 2005 07:07 pm |
|
1st Post |
|
rockdude Grasshopper
|
I have a Kenmore 70 series Dryer, The drum will not spinning. If I open the dryer door and turn on the timer, (even without pressing the start button) the heating unit comes on. I hear no noise from the motor. The Belt is fine with good tension. I took the door switch to the appliance store for replacement but they tested it and said it was good. What other possibilities are there? Thanks, One lost grain of RIce
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Thu Jul 14th, 2005 08:32 pm |
|
2nd Post |
|
Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
|
Sounds like your heating element is grounded to the canister or the bracket. Unplug this dryer till this is resolved as you have 240 volts feeding to the case if this is the problem.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic! 
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: Thu Jul 14th, 2005 08:39 pm |
|
3rd Post |
|
rockdude Grasshopper
|
If the heating element is grounded to the canister or the bracket what sould I look for and how would I fix this problem? thanks, One lost grain of rice...
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Thu Jul 14th, 2005 08:46 pm |
|
4th Post |
|
Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
|
Without a model number we have no idea where this is located. If the lint filter is on the top of the dryer, remove the back panel and the element will be in the silver canister on the right side facing from the back of the dryer. See if the element is touching something inside of the canister. If it is, replace the element.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: Thu Jul 14th, 2005 09:04 pm |
|
5th Post |
|
rockdude Grasshopper
|
The lint filter is on the top of the dryer. I removed the heating element Checked to see if it was touching any where and looked for signs of grounding. I saw nothing. I put it back together and no tumbling and the heating still comes on when I turn the timer on with the door open or close and without pushing the start button. Do you think the motor is bad? Thanks, One lost grain of rice. Last edited on Thu Jul 14th, 2005 09:05 pm by rockdude |
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Thu Jul 14th, 2005 09:18 pm |
|
6th Post |
|
Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
|
There is something that has your heat circut grounded. If the motor switch were welded together you could get voltage to the element when it was off also. Take the top up, the front off and the drum out and check to see if the switch button on the motor is stuck from 1 to 2, where the 2 red wires atttach. The clutch in the motor activate this when the motor reaches 1,000 rpm, this is a safety so you will not get heat when the motor is off, but if 1 to 2 is making contact will give power to the element. Perhaps lint has the clutch pushing on the switch or the button on the switch is stuck.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: Thu Jul 14th, 2005 09:49 pm |
|
7th Post |
|
rockdude Grasshopper
|
Pegi, I took the front off and looked at the motor. I did not see the switch button on the motor. The motor look pretty clean. I did see something that looked a little odd in the back of the control panel. I white approximately 2 inch long ( i would call it a capacitor looking thing) connected with orange wires covered in clear plastic srink wrap looked burned and had melted the srink wrap. What about this? Thanks, One lost grain of rice..
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Thu Jul 14th, 2005 11:29 pm |
|
8th Post |
|
Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
|
The switch is on the front of the motor, would have to remove the switch to see the button. I cannot see what you are looking at without the model number............
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: Fri Jul 15th, 2005 01:45 pm |
|
9th Post |
|
rockdude Grasshopper
|
I have looked and looked and don't see a switch no the motor. My model # is Kenmore 66702692. Last edited on Fri Jul 15th, 2005 02:08 pm by rockdude |
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Fri Jul 15th, 2005 01:47 pm |
|
10th Post |
|
rockdude Grasshopper
|
I know the heating unit comming on is a symptom but the main problem is the Dryer will not tumble. Should I recheck the door switch? Last edited on Fri Jul 15th, 2005 02:09 pm by rockdude |
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: Fri Jul 15th, 2005 06:38 pm |
|
11th Post |
|
Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
|
The door switch has nothing to do with heating except to start the motor so you can get power to the heat circut. If the door switch was bad you either would have a dead dryer or one that runs with the door open, Post the refewrence # to the thing in the console that is melted. Does your dryer run with the door closed when the start is pushed??? See if there might be something across the thermostats and thermofuse in the rear of the dryer that has the heating circut grounded also. Check the wires on the terminal block where the cord attaches to see of some wires might be touching. Your model number starts with 110. which means this is a Whirlpool dryer.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Fri Jul 15th, 2005 06:43 pm |
|
12th Post |
|
Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
|
If the dryer is dead you probably have a dead thermofuse on the vent housing in the rear of the dryer. White plastic fuse on the vent housing. But this does not address the element coming on with the motor off but that problem could have blown the fuse, thank goodness, since the element is never shutting off and would melt your dryer down, probably what happened in the console.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: Fri Jul 15th, 2005 07:36 pm |
|
13th Post |
|
rockdude Grasshopper
|
Pegi, The reference # to the thing in the console that is has the melted clear plastic cover is ABC09707, 10W5KnJ. From the picture you posted it my be part number 18. The Dryer does not run at all expect the heating element comes on when the time is turned on. I see nothing across the thermostats and thermofuse in the rear of the dryer that has the heating circuit grounded. I check the wires on the terminal block where the cord attaches and nothing is touching The heater does turn off when the timer cycle is finished. Is your recommendation to replace the thermofuse? What about the fuse like thing in the console? Thanks, One lost grain of rice.
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Fri Jul 15th, 2005 07:58 pm |
|
14th Post |
|
Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
|
you also need to check the motor switch on the front of the motor #'s 1&2 the two red wires attach to the switch that go to the heat circut. these should show no reading with the motor off thru 1 and 2. If you show a reading this switch is welded also and would need a motor/switch assy. sounds like this dryer got hit by lightning or something put 240 volts thru this whole dryer, the only thing 240 v in here is the heating element, the rest is 120 volts. Last edited on Sat Jul 16th, 2005 12:00 am by Pegi ____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: Fri Jul 15th, 2005 08:07 pm |
|
15th Post |
|
Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
|
 This is a w.p. dyrer motor, check to see if you show a reading between 1&2 with the motor off, there should be no reading with the motor off.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Fri Jul 15th, 2005 08:12 pm |
|
16th Post |
|
Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
|
#18 shows to be the resister , this has to do with advancing the timer for the auto cycle, part number 3401076 replaced by 279872....sounds like you got hit with a major power surge of some kind.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: Fri Jul 15th, 2005 09:57 pm |
|
17th Post |
|
rockdude Grasshopper
|
Pegi wrote: Since we have discovered by e-mail your heat contacts in your timer are welded togethe, you also need to check the motor switch on the front of the motor #'s 1&2 the two red wires attach to the switch that go to the heat circut. these should show no reading with the motor off thru 1 and 2. If you show a reading this switch is welded also and would need a motor/switch assy. sounds like this dryer got hit by lightning or something put 240 volts thru this whole dryer, the only thing 240 v in here is the heating element, the rest is 120 volts. I think you discovered this in another post for a non-working Kenmore . Should I still check the motor? Are you recommending I get part number 3401076 replaced by 279872 and replace this resister? What about the replacing the thermofuse? Last edited on Fri Jul 15th, 2005 09:58 pm by rockdude |
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Fri Jul 15th, 2005 11:53 pm |
|
18th Post |
|
Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
|
If the resister is melted would replace it. Need to see if the t-fuse is bad first, if it is will have to be replaced. And yes, check 1 to 2 on the motor switch.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
Current time is 11:11 pm
|
|
| ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Kenmore Dryer will not spin but heat is on | Top |
| Find Appliance Parts & Diagrams Here |
| Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description. |
|
365-day return policy on all parts ordered through this site! |
FAQs | Contact | Apprenticeship | Consultations | Parts | Model Number Help | Newsletter | Beer | Fixitnow.com
