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Removing the basket/drum on GE Model WSM2420SEZWW washer

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Posted: Sat Nov 29th, 2008 05:32 pm

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seattletodd
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Well, I had the front panel of my GE stackable washer/dryer off last weekend to discover what I could do about my drum leaning like the tower of Pisa--causing a considerable shimmy during the spin cycle and an agitation-producing thumping during the agitation cycle. I discovered that one of the three support arms has rusted through where the suspension attaches to the support.

So...I have a master plan to insert some washers to support the rusted out arm.

The only way to get back down there is to pull the drum. I haven't done this before, but I know that I can remove the spanner nut with a spanner wrench. My question is, once I do that, is it a big job to remove this inner drum and outer tub on this model? From reading this forum, it looks like that on some models there is an inner seal, which will have to be replaced, etc.

The schematic on this unit can be found here...
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=230657

Thanks...I am a bit of a knucklehead at times...so any help appreciated.
Todd

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Posted: Sat Nov 29th, 2008 10:40 pm

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applianceman18007260692
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The link you offered shows a skinny mini with a direct drive tranny nothing to do with a GE. What up wid dat?

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Posted: Sat Nov 29th, 2008 10:50 pm

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BLTH15

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going by the model number it shows a direct drive. the whole lid will come off, 2 screws in back you can't see without sticking your head back there. disconnect all lines attached to the tub. on the base you will see 2 bolts those attach the basket tub and motor to the frame. remove them and the whole thing will come out so you can work on the rear shock. these shocks are notorious for ripping out. post back

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Posted: Sat Nov 29th, 2008 11:18 pm

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seattletodd
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Hey ApplianceMan...
Thanks for the reply. Yeah, this is definitely my unit, it's an over under stackable thing, and it's skinny, and it's a GE....but trust me, if this seems weird to you I don't doubt you know more about it than me. I didn't know an Ohm Meter from my own butt until I got on this blog last week and ended up replacing my thermal fuse in this thing!

Last edited on Sat Nov 29th, 2008 11:19 pm by seattletodd

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Posted: Sat Nov 29th, 2008 11:23 pm

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seattletodd
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Hey BLTH15,
Thanks for the speedy reply. Okay, I don't have this thing apart right now, as my Mom is visiting for the holidays...but I'll tear into this thing next week. The bolts that you're refering to that attach the tub to the frame, are they accessed from under the frame? So I would take off the spanner nut first....and then does the inner basket just come right out?
Thank you again!

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Posted: Sat Nov 29th, 2008 11:36 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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seattletodd wrote: ... it's an over under stackable thing, and it's skinny, and it's a GE...

It's a GE WSM2420SEZWW built by Whirlpool

similar GE WSM2420D1CC Wiring Sheet

Whirlpool Large Capacity Thin Twin Service Manual

Whirlpool LTE7245AW0 Wiring Sheet

Last edited on Sat Nov 29th, 2008 11:49 pm by RegUS_PatOff

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Posted: Sat Nov 29th, 2008 11:44 pm

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seattletodd
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Thanks Regus! The thing says GE Spacemaker on the front, and inside the dryer is a plate that says made by General Electric, and lists the model number as WSM2420SEZWW. As you say, must be manufactured by Whirlpool and sold under the GE brand... At any rate, this schematic is definitely the correct one as near as I can tell from getting inside it. Thanks for all the quick feedback.
Todd

Last edited on Sun Nov 30th, 2008 12:01 am by seattletodd

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Posted: Sun Mar 29th, 2009 12:12 am

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seattletodd
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Hello All,
I posted this fall about this same machine...I'm trying to pull the basket in order to get to one of the rear suspension arms, which has rusted through a bracket. I got the special spanner nut wrench, and was able to pull the inner basket. However, the outer plastic basket is still in the way, and I can't figure out how to pull it off over the spindle...there is a metal sleeve that was just under the spanner nut. Maybe I'll try to take a picture and post it...any ideas?

Meanwhile, this machine is now leaking water, which appears to me to be dripping right off of the motor, I'm assuming it is coming straight from the water pump, as it doesn't appear to be coming from the water hose. Does this mean a new pump?

Thanks for you help!

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Posted: Sun Mar 29th, 2009 01:41 am

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seattletodd
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Okay, I got the spanner wrench, loosened the spanner nut and removed the inner tub. Now I can't figure out how to remove the outer plastic tub. It's got a few nuts along the bottom of the outside...no problem there...but there is a metal sleeve that is on the spindle inside and which is preventing me from sliding the tub up and off. The sleeve rotates, but does not appear to be threaded.

Here is a photo.

What am I not doing right?

Thanks for your help...
Todd

Attachment: plastic tub med res.jpg (Downloaded 60 times)

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Posted: Sun Mar 29th, 2009 01:46 am

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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I PMed you the appliantological scriptures for this unit. That should make straight your path.

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Posted: Sun Mar 29th, 2009 01:54 am

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RegUS_PatOff
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Did you remove this part ?

click on picture

Last edited on Sun Mar 29th, 2009 01:56 am by RegUS_PatOff

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Posted: Sun Mar 29th, 2009 02:05 am

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Tronicsmasta

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The whole tub and drive assembly come out as a whole.

1. Remove the vent access panel by removing the 2 Philips head screws. Slide the panel up and off the unit.
2. The top cabinet/lid assembly is held on by 2-5/16in screws on 2 brackets on the rear of the assembly. They are kind of tricky to remove.
3. Slide the top panel forward and lift up the front to remove.
4. Older models have the lid switch connector as part of the top cabinet assembly, newer models you have to disconnect the connector on the front right harness.
5. Remove the front panel by removing the 2-5/16in screws on each side. They are located on the inside of the panel about 2 inches from the top of the cabinet.
6. Slide the front panel up and off.
7. You will see a black base that has 2-1/2in bolts right next to the feet. Remove those two bolts. Disconnect the motor harness. Lift up the front of that base and slide it over the front lip of the white cabinet. Then put your hands on the inside of the basket and slide the whole tub and drive assembly out. You can leave the drain hose attached to the pump but be sure to release the tension on it by removing the hose from the retainer clips on the back of that base.

There is a large nut that attaches the shocks to the tub support. I want to say its 13/16th's...

To remove the shock from the base, rotate the cup counter clockwise to unthread it from the base.

The shock kit comes with all 3 shocks and is recommended that you replace all 3. The new styles helps stop the springs from falling apart.

P/N W10207783 Shocks for the Whirlpool... SET OF 3
Cheaper than GE Brand but same part

P/N 388492 Counter Weight Spring

P/N 63636 Counter Weight Spring Bracket

Last edited on Sun Mar 29th, 2009 02:09 am by Tronicsmasta

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Posted: Sun Mar 29th, 2009 03:04 am

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seattletodd
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This is exactly the part I am having trouble removing. I can spin it, but it doesn't seem to be threaded, and also doesn't seem to simply pull off...am I missing something?

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Posted: Sun Mar 29th, 2009 06:23 am

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grey one

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Hammer

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Posted: Sun Mar 29th, 2009 11:14 am

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Budget Appliance Repair
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seattletodd wrote: This is exactly the part I am having trouble removing. I can spin it, but it doesn't seem to be threaded, and also doesn't seem to simply pull off...am I missing something?

Most likely, you're going to find that the base part that the spring assembly threads into has rusted and broken out. The thread piece of the base will probably still be on the spring stud.

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Posted: Sun Mar 29th, 2009 06:56 pm

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Tronicsmasta

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oh boy... I had a stripped out shock before. What I ended up doing was leaving the old cup in place, rebuilding the old and new spring together, then i took the nut from the top of the spring, went to the hardware store, got the same thread nut, and put it under the base really really really tight... I noticed it didnt move any more. Now the best thing to do is order a new base if the threaded part is broken apart form the base. If its not and just stripped, put a nut on it.

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Posted: Mon Mar 30th, 2009 01:35 pm

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seattletodd
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Okay friends, thanks to all of your help, I was able to get the whole unit out in order to access the rear shock. As I mentioned, it wasn't the shock itself that I wanted to replace, but the support had rusted through where the shock bolts on at the top. So I was able to use some washers to rig up a fix that will work.
I appreciate all of your help.

Now I am on to my next problem, which is a leaky water pump! There is a pretty significant drip coming off of the bottom of the water pump...after a lot of watching with the front panel off, it does not appear to be leaking anywhere else...not from the water hoses or from anywhere else under the motor or the tub. Does this mean that I'll need to replace the whole pump?
Thanks again!
Todd

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Posted: Mon Mar 30th, 2009 08:01 pm

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Tronicsmasta

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yes...

it should be 3363394 or it could be the one with the check valve.... Take off the pump and hoses and see if it has a check valve. The P/N above does not

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Posted: Sun Jun 7th, 2009 08:22 pm

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seattletodd
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I ordered the pump, and now I'm ready to install it. Is it really as simple as it looks? Just the two hoses coming in and out and two clamps holding it on? Is there a rubber gasket or washer or any grease necessary where the unit fits into the drive from the motor?

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Posted: Sun Jun 7th, 2009 09:09 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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seattletodd wrote: ... simple as it looks...

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