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Frigidaire M# LTF2140ES0  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Tue Nov 25th, 2008 03:41 pm
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kawmagnum
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Won't spin-all other cycles work. -Ran through diagnostics- even spin-OK-Spit out error code 43(replace control Board)-Everything else works-no known wiring problems- connectors look good. Latch works, level switch works. Motor res - ok. Buy a new control board?? or did I miss something. Can the Eprom be cleared and try again?

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 Posted: Tue Nov 25th, 2008 04:37 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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The instructions to determine the Error Code sometimes have been wrong/confusing..

it could be E47  PTC Refer to Test 9



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 Posted: Tue Nov 25th, 2008 05:01 pm
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kawmagnum
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Test 9, the drain pump,door lock and spin test checks out ok. And that's what bugs me. Apparently the controller board can be bad even though the diagnostics program runs ok?

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 Posted: Tue Nov 25th, 2008 05:41 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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It's usually the Motor Speed Control Board...

Won't  "Spin", but will it Agitate ?



Any part ordered from RepairClinic can be returned in original condition
within 30 days for a refund (less shipping).

Last edited on Tue Nov 25th, 2008 07:11 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Tue Nov 25th, 2008 07:07 pm
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kawmagnum
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Yes- Every other function works and all diagnostics test ok.

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 Posted: Tue Nov 25th, 2008 07:11 pm
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kawmagnum
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Just noticed your comment about the motor controller. That would have been my WAG but code says main control board.

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 Posted: Wed Nov 26th, 2008 08:39 am
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Budget Appliance Repair
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kawmagnum wrote: Just noticed your comment about the motor controller. That would have been my WAG but code says main control board.

Forget the codes, you have a bad door lock switch, the wax motor has gone bad so it can't lock the door so it won't spin.

In the diagnostic mode when you put it in spin the wax motor lock doesn't activate.  If the unit spins ok in diagnostic mode you don't have a bad speed control board.




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 Posted: Wed Nov 26th, 2008 11:51 am
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kawmagnum
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Seems that would make sense, but the door lock does engage and the door lock light is on. Door is locked both during diagnostic and while trying "drain & spin" and "Rinse and spin". I have ordered the main control board but I am still suspicious that may not be the problem. I have removed the main control board, checked all connections and inspected the Board. No corrosion or obvious issues.

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 Posted: Thu Nov 27th, 2008 07:25 am
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kawmagnum wrote: Seems that would make sense, but the door lock does engage and the door lock light is on. Door is locked both during diagnostic and while trying "drain & spin" and "Rinse and spin". I have ordered the main control board but I am still suspicious that may not be the problem. I have removed the main control board, checked all connections and inspected the Board. No corrosion or obvious issues.

There are two parts to the door locking mechanism.  The first part is an electrical coil that pulls the mechanical locking arm down into lock position, in this position the machine will run but when the machine calls for the second part of the lock procedure, engage wax motor to physically hold locking lever in postion, this second part is what fails, (it also closes a second contact point in the door switch to let the machine know that the door is actually physically  locked).

The wax motor will physically keep the door from being open until about 2 minutes after power has been removed to give the spin basket plenty of time to come to a full stop before the door can be opened. 

The diagnostic spin and all test of door lock system never activates the wax motor to physically lock the door, you could put the machine into the diagnostic mode and put it in the spin test, let it get up to full spin speed and pull the power plug and you would be able to immediately open the door with the spin basket coasting to a stop or reach in and break your arm off.

The door switch/lock assembly are pretty easy to remove and you can carefully pop the switch case apart and see all the inner workings.  You could make a test cord, (just a used cord off any old appliance with  push on connectors), and attach it to the wax motor and plug it in, if the wax motor is operating correctly it will extend to it's full on position in about 90 seconds.

The mechanical part of the wax motors is what usually fails, you could check it's ohms and it would read ok and heat up correctly, (after you have had it plugged in for about 2 minutes, pull the plug and feel the side of the wax motor and it should be hot to the touch), if it's hot and didn't extend out the door lock is your problem.

If you find that is your problem you can just replace the wax motor in the switch for a lot less then the cost of the complete new switch/lock assembly, (you will have to ask about the part# if you determine that to be your problem and don't want to replace the complete switch/lock assembly).



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 Posted: Sat Nov 29th, 2008 07:13 pm
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kawmagnum
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Well Willie, you were right. Unfortunately parts were on the way so I waited for them to arrive before testing the wax motor. Where do I get just the wax motor? or should I buy the whole deal. Selenoid etc works and I don't see any other problems. Thanks for sharing your wisdom and experience. Bill

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 Posted: Sun Nov 30th, 2008 09:02 am
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Budget Appliance Repair
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kawmagnum wrote: Well Willie, you were right. Unfortunately parts were on the way so I waited for them to arrive before testing the wax motor. Where do I get just the wax motor? or should I buy the whole deal. Selenoid etc works and I don't see any other problems. Thanks for sharing your wisdom and experience. Bill


Frigidaire FrontLoad washer door latch/lock switch
 WCI 131763245
replace only wax motor if it is bad, not complete latch assembly

 WPL 99001807 wax motor
 WPL 12002535 Wax motor



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