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Temp and digital readout incorrect - GE Artica - PSS27SGNA

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Posted: Wed Nov 19th, 2008 04:37 pm

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mreh
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GE Artica SxS - Mod# PSS27SGNA BS - s/n MD400xxx

I don't want to replace all the expensive parts but this one has that feel to it.

The Original Issue: Freezing in the beer compartment (BC), also, colder than desired in the freezer (FZ) and no water at the door dispenser. Digital readout is ~64F for BC and 0F for FZ. These seemed to be fixed with no change except the BC readout changed a bit with a 1-6 restart. Actual temps (measured with a thermocouple) are -20F in FZ and ~18F in BC. The compressor never stops except during diag tests.

All Diags passed except 0-3 (F). Damper works OK (rechecked many times). All thermisters checked OK (BC thermisters dipped into a cup with ice water at 32F, the resistance is right on spec.). I also dehaired (cleaned) the coils with compressed air. This fridge is not in the serial group that has suspect dampers so I concluded the main board is bad.

Dropped $100 on a WR55x10552 main board. FZ seems to be working OK now. Readout 0 to -1F, actual temp around -4 to 0F and is controlling. Thawed out the water line and have water at the door. All Diags pass except 0-3 (F). Compressor cycles as expected.

The Remaining Issue: BC Temp is set to 37F. The actual BC temp is still below set point and varies from 31F-37F range. (just slightly freezing). The BC digital readout says 54F and never changes.

Questions:
   1. What else could be wrong?
   2. Is the 0-3 failure a concern?
   3. Can the thermisters still be bad even if they tested ok at 32F.
   4. Could the display / control board cause this issue?
   5. Is there a difference between WR55x10552 and WR55x10656?

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Posted: Wed Nov 19th, 2008 05:15 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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some info (so far...)

GE_Refrig_Board.pdf

there's (2) FRZ Thermisters & (2) BC Thermisters

You can check the Thermistor readings at the Main Controller plug J1

Attachment: Page from 31-9071 Arctica Knob SxS.pdf

Samurai Appliance Repair Man wrote: These fridges don't have thermostats. They use thermistor sensors whose resistance changes with temperature. The board detects this change in the resistance and makes the necessary changes with the evap fan, damper, and compressor to maintain the set temperature. A bad sensor is one of the things that can cause the problem you're having. Did he check the resistance of the sensors?

Another common problem is the light staying on inside the the beer compartment. Check by opening the door after it's been closed a while and then opening it an immediately feeling the light bulb (careful!). If it's hot, then you know that's the problem.

Last edited on Tue Nov 25th, 2008 12:04 pm by RegUS_PatOff

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Posted: Thu Nov 20th, 2008 01:29 am

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mreh
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When I arrived home from the salt mine today the BC digital readout was 48F. Actual measured ~30F to 36F. Set point is 37F. FZ side OK - digital readout was 0.

I retested all 5 thermistors using an ice bath and reference thermocouple. All look right on spec.

______ Temp F _ KOhms
FF1 ____ 32.6 _ 16.3
FF2 ____ 32.7 _ 16.0
FRZ ____ 32.7 _ 16.2
Evap ___ 32.8 _ 16.1
CustCool 33.1 _ 15.9

Plugged it back in ~10PM FZ Readout 42F and BC 54F.
Will check the readout and actual temps in the AM.

Any comments on Question 2, 4 or 5?

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Posted: Thu Nov 20th, 2008 03:15 am

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RegUS_PatOff
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The manufacturer has replaced part number wr55x10552 with part number WR55X10656

0-3 = Temperature Control Panel to Dispenser Board communication.
(I don't know the fix)

Last edited on Thu Nov 20th, 2008 03:28 am by RegUS_PatOff

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Posted: Thu Nov 20th, 2008 03:53 am

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denrayr
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did you cut the jumper on the thermistor harness if it applies to your model according to the directions that come with the board?

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Posted: Thu Nov 20th, 2008 04:24 am

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RegUS_PatOff
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good thought, denrayr but it's not a Bottom Freezer, and I don't think it has the Encoder mentioned in Step 2
so hopefully he didn't cut the Thermister, nor the Green Wire mentioned in Step 4.

here's the info:

GE® imagination at work

WR55X10552-motherboard-replacement.pdf

Last edited on Thu Nov 20th, 2008 04:31 am by RegUS_PatOff

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Posted: Thu Nov 20th, 2008 11:23 am

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mreh
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Update. Still out of range.

10 hours of runtime:
FZ Setpoint = 0
FZ Actual (near FZ Thermistor) = 10.9F
FZ Digital Readout = 0

BC Setpoint = 37
BC Actual (near lower FF2 Thermistor) = 32.3F
BC Digital Readout = 48

I did NOT cut the wire on the WR5510552 Board.

Last edited on Thu Nov 20th, 2008 11:31 am by mreh

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Posted: Thu Nov 20th, 2008 03:54 pm

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denrayr
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how are you taking your measurements? are things still freezing in the fridge? have you inspected the damper door for breakage?

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Posted: Thu Nov 20th, 2008 04:19 pm

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mreh
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denrayr, measurments are being taken with a fine wire gage type T thermocouple using an Omega HH-23.

http://www.omega.com/pptst/HH21_22_23.html
http://www.omega.com/pptst/5SC.html

The fine wire thermocouple has very fast response and allws the test temps with the door fully closed. I locate the tip exactly next to the thermister in question, and wait a while (10 min) to stabilize.

Food and Milk in the fridge are not freezing but are darn close. The temp seems to drift above and below freezing. The milk has a few ice crystals in it that come and go.

I pulled the damper assembly out to inspect and could not see any damage or interference. I even ran the damper diagnostic with the damper hanging on the wire so I could veryify it is sealing at both ends of travel.... Damper looks good.

Even if the Damper were not working, the BC Digital readout seems to be stuck on 48 and FZ on 0 regardless of any condition. Thats why I wonder if the display control assy is bad. Also, what is the 0-3 diagnostic failing mean?

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Posted: Thu Nov 20th, 2008 07:47 pm

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denrayr
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i would have suspected the board as well. since the fridge is acting pretty much the same as before i think we can rule out you receiving a bad board. The thermistors do many times test good even when they are bad, moisture inside will cause an intermittent short. Is the display always reading 20 degrees high? If so i would think one of the thermistors would test bad. I don't think a bad display board would cause your issues as it does not read the thermistors it merely reports what the main board is reading. I would retest the refrigerator thermistors by putting the thermalcouple next to them and getting a good reading then comparing the resistance value on the chart posted in this thread.

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Posted: Thu Nov 20th, 2008 07:54 pm

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denrayr
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i wouldnt worry about the 0-3 error. i never diagnose these using the built in diagnostics because i feel it is garbage.

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Posted: Thu Nov 20th, 2008 08:17 pm

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awp101
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I don't think I have any of my manuals for these left at the house but I'll check.

You wouldn't happen to have the air return at the bottom blocked on the freezer side with a package or something that may have fallen down there?

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Posted: Thu Nov 20th, 2008 10:27 pm

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mreh
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denrayr, re-checked the FF1 and FF2 thermistors:
FF1 31.9F - 16.3 kOhms
FF2 32.0F - 16.3 kOhms
Also, back when I did the ice bath test, I held the thermister in my hand and observed the resistance reading changing as expected with warmer temp.

Digital Display FZ: 0 BC: 49 (it changed +1 degree!)

awp101, Nope, good idea but nothing was blocking the return air in the bottom of the freeze. I did however, find a nice piece of wild pork loin I had misplaced a few months back. :yum:

So what now...?
The "Main Temp Control" and the "Dispenser Display Board" talk to the Main Board via a 3 wire connection.... Hence, a serial digital communication bus. It is possible that either the temp control or the display board have a noisy or bad digital signal that is messing up the set point data to the main board and also hindering the reported value back from the main board...? That might be what the 0-3 failure is about...

I'm leaning towards installing the next part of the "replace it all" campaign... Do I pick the display board or the control board?

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Posted: Thu Nov 20th, 2008 10:45 pm

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awp101
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This is one of the few times I wish was imagining I'm at work.

I'd have the manuals and my old laptop with all kinds of cheater info.

Remind me, by control board do you mean the main board on the back?

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Posted: Thu Nov 20th, 2008 11:58 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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Any part ordered from RepairClinic can be returned in original condition
within 30 days for a refund (less shipping).

Attachment: Thermister Test Pages from 31-9072 GE Arctica Pro SxS.pdf (Downloaded 9 times)

Last edited on Fri Nov 21st, 2008 12:03 am by RegUS_PatOff

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Posted: Fri Nov 21st, 2008 12:48 am

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mreh
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I was referring to the "Control Board" with the digital display and set buttons in FF Compartment.

The Control Board (Top of FF Compartment)
The Main Board (In Back Rear)
The Display Board (in Freezer Side Door)

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Posted: Sun Nov 23rd, 2008 11:43 pm

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mreh
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Update... Retested all thermistors at low and high temp bath. All pass. Checked the 3 Wire power and communication harness between the 3 boards for resistance (meg Ohm). (main, control and display). All Pass. Replaced the new WR55x10552 with a new (sealed) WR55x10656 main board. Damper also rechecked. Still get a 0-3 diagnostic fail.

Observation. I had the fridge off for ~2 hours when I went to swap the new main board. When I installed it the unit behaved normally with correct temps and fridge temps for about 45min.

Then is slowly drifted to what I have now.. ~31 in FF with display from ~58. Set point 37.

Seems like someting either cooled off or heated up causing drift in the display....

Looking at the other 2 boards (and with some research) I see they have an H8/3644-ZTAT 8 bit microprocessor. Thats right...the Artica has 3 computers, one on every board. The 3 wires are both DC power and a serial digital signal in one. The 3 chips talk to each other. The 0-3 diag failure must indicate an issue in this communication bus. Would be great if one of the masters on this forum had access to GE technical notes and could share a bit on the 0-3 diag.
:nerd:

Since the issue was not fixed by swapping out the main board and all other usual candidates have been checked. It must be either the board behind the water dispenser or the one with the digital temperature display. The display board seems likley since it is a temp issue.... but, the board at the dispenser is more subject to physical flex damage from regular button pushing (water - ice - crushed).

Any other ideas?

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Posted: Mon Nov 24th, 2008 10:20 am

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telefunkenu47

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yep...Part no. [url=mailto:wr21X@X$]wr21X2X4[/url]. good rule of thumb, never by anything made by GE anytime, anywhere for any reason...

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Posted: Mon Nov 24th, 2008 06:55 pm

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denrayr
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here is a test you could try, i have never done this so i dont know if it will work. unplug the fridge allowing enough time to reset. plug the fridge back in and verify it is working normally (actually displaying the proper temp). while the fridge is working (before it goes back to displaying the wrong temp) unplug the temp control display and monitor the temps inside with a thermometer. As far as i know the temp control isnt necessary for the fridge to run, it is just to program the desired temp into the main board. report back what happens.

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Posted: Tue Nov 25th, 2008 12:52 am

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mreh
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denrayr, Before I did the test you suggest I used electronic componet "freeze" spray to cool down the display control board and the one behind the dispenser. This often can identify a board, component or soldering defect. I observed no change however here.

Here is the result of the display board pull test you suggested:
6:16PM Unplug Fridge - FF Actual 30.0 Display 63

7:51PM Plugin Fridge. FF Actual 48.0 Display 41 right after plugin.
------ Then unplugged digital display/control.

9:25PM Plugged digital display control back in
------ FF Actula 30.3 Display 57

What do you make of the results?

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