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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag Plus Side by Side Refrigerator not cooling MSD2756GEW

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Maytag Plus Side by Side Refrigerator not cooling MSD2756GEW  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 07:13 pm
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Epeescott
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 Check that - the relay buzzes very slightly when I do the L1-test jumper.  I'm heading out to buy a capacitor and zeners.



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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 07:15 pm
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 A good capacitor may be hard to find..

a cheap one is OK if it's the right voltage...

zeners are optional

Last edited on Sat Oct 25th, 2008 07:16 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 07:20 pm
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Epeescott
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 Are your Zeners just to prevent someone shocking themselves if they don't discharge C2?



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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 07:32 pm
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 I'll post pics of my repair job, if it works (and if I can find the caps!).



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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 07:34 pm
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 mentioned in schematic Maytag ADC PDF  on I posted on page 3

may have 120v accross 50v capacitor if Q1 is off and residual magnetism keeps K1 on for any length of time

Last edited on Sat Oct 25th, 2008 07:36 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 07:38 pm
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 Ah, I see - possibly the culprit damaging C2 already, eh?

Have you sent this in to Maytag and asked about your solution?



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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 07:42 pm
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 possible... or the humidity...

Maytag... no, I didn't bother...

they wouldn't admit to anything wrong....

although the newer ADC boards are different design...

and there's a 3rd party model (with diagnostic LED) available on eBay..

 



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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 09:25 pm
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 Replaced only the C2 capacitor - and that, only with a 22 uF 35V - couldn't find one in 50V.

Put the board back in and did the L1-test short - compressor cut off, heard the heater heating up (water drips were hissing).

Things to note:

The capacitor removed was a 22 uF 63V piece.  So, if it cuts out on me again, I'll buy that one.  In fact, I'm going to order the Tantalum C2 and C3 in 63V.

How did you put in your Zeners?  Got a picture?  I bought them but didn't put them in.

ETA:  Woohoo.  Heater is most definitely on.

Last edited on Sat Oct 25th, 2008 09:28 pm by Epeescott



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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 09:40 pm
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 Epeescott wrote: ... In fact, I'm going to order the Tantalum C2 and C3 in 63V...
If you can find Tantulums, that size, at that voltage,... at  a decent price ..

(originals are axial leads)

shouldn't need much more than 35v if the zeners are installed...

(3) zeners hard-wired in series, right across the big capacitor...



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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 09:53 pm
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 So you just soldered the ends of the zeners together and then onto the C2 leads?



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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 09:55 pm
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 yes



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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 10:15 pm
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Epeescott
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 I just put the Zeners on (and an ugly solder job it was - I wrapped electrical tape around them just in case).

Works good!



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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 10:28 pm
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Epeescott
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 Bad Capacitor removed.....Ready for the new one.

Attachment: 1.jpg (Downloaded 20 times)



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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 10:28 pm
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 My workspace:


Attachment: 2.jpg (Downloaded 20 times)



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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 10:29 pm
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Epeescott
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 The location in the fridge:


Attachment: 3.jpg (Downloaded 20 times)



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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 10:29 pm
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Epeescott
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 The Zeners soldered (shudder) on.


Attachment: 4.jpg (Downloaded 20 times)



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 Posted: Sun Oct 26th, 2008 12:38 am
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Epeescott
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 Gentlemen, polarity is key.

And though I still can't find why I might have put the zeners backwards (stripe on Zener is cathode, matched to positive of C2), I think I did because R17-19 were really damn hot and now defrost won't work again.

I'm going to get another C2 and try that, but the Zeners are off for now.


Ah well, I've saved a couple of hundred even if I have to buy a board online.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 26th, 2008 01:11 am
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 I couldn't see the zeners because of the tape ...

It is a crazy board design.

The 5v ground (and the board common), is connected to 120v L1 HOT side of the line.

C2- is one way and  C3- is the other way...

(caps are marked with - , not +)

They could have mounted them the same way and changed the circuit on the copper side of the board.


If the zeners were reversed (all of them) it shouldn't have ruined C2...
nor anything else I could see...not even the zeners.

Last edited on Sun Oct 26th, 2008 01:18 am by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Sun Oct 26th, 2008 01:38 am
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Epeescott
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 I didn't think so either, but they were sure dumping current, when I pulled the board (maybe 3 minutes) the R17-19 were pretty hot.

I'll check defrost tomorrow.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 26th, 2008 10:09 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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 Epeescott wrote: ... the R17-19 were pretty hot...

they do get hot during Defrost.

 

Last edited on Sun Oct 26th, 2008 10:10 am by RegUS_PatOff



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