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Whirlpool Dryer Heats without Start  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Wed Sep 17th, 2008 04:32 am
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gte215r
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Sorry, I think I'm just saying the terminology backward. The switch closes which is why the heater stays on and the run windings make noise but lack the additional windings to start when I try to start it. I think that explains the humming from the motor.

I need it to open back up once the motor stops spinning. A flick of the screwdriver does it without fail, but that's not a permanent fix. What tells it to open back up or what is keeping it from opening???



RegUS_PatOff wrote:
It's a Centrifugal Switch, when it gets up to speed, it will close both sections of the Switch
which will complete the Ciruit for the Heater, and also transfer from the Start Windings in the Motor to the Run Windings.

 


Last edited on Wed Sep 17th, 2008 04:35 am by gte215r

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 Posted: Wed Sep 17th, 2008 04:47 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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1) When the Motor isn't turning, the Centrifugal Switch connects the Start Windings on the Motor (ready to start),
and the second part of the Switch disconnects the contacts to the Heater.

2) When the Motor gets up to speed, the Start Windings disconnect and the Run Windings connect,
and the second part of the Switch completes the Heater Circuit.

 

When the Motor stops, (or slows down), see #1

 



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 Posted: Wed Sep 17th, 2008 04:53 am
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gte215r
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Basically it never returns to 1, even if the motor stops turning. If you gently push on it, it pops back into the 1 position, ready for a start. Run it and it goes to 2 but not back to 1.

Is anything else telling the switch what to do or having any effect on the switch?

BTW, one of the springs is off on the old motor, both are in place on the new motor. That explains the old motor a bit better. But I can't imagine this is the issue with the new motor because the first replacement acted the same way. Maybe whatever was holding it open wore out the spring mount or maybe the spring  popping changed something?


RegUS_PatOff wrote:
1) When the Motor isn't turning, the Centrifugal Switch connects the Start Windings on the Motor (ready to start),
and the second part of the Switch disconnects the contacts to the Heater.

2) When the Motor gets up to speed, the Start Windings disconnect and the Run Windings connect,
and the second part of the Switch completes the Heater Circuit.

 

When the Motor stops, (or slows down), see #1

 

Last edited on Wed Sep 17th, 2008 05:02 am by gte215r

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 Posted: Wed Sep 17th, 2008 05:01 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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I don't know.. sounds like the (start Switch action on the) new Motor is bad...

The Start Switch on the old Motor was stuck "on", either electrically or mechanically.

Last edited on Wed Sep 17th, 2008 05:26 am by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Wed Sep 17th, 2008 02:35 pm
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gte215r
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So the guy at the parts store has ordered a different brand replacement, he even thinks that it could be a bad batch. We'll know tomorrow late.

Last edited on Wed Sep 17th, 2008 02:54 pm by gte215r

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 Posted: Fri Sep 19th, 2008 04:32 am
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gte215r
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THE OEM MOTOR WORKS, PROBLEM SOLVED!

Thanks again for all your trouble shooting. The original motor, the first aftermarket replacement and the second aftermarket replacement all had centrifugal switches that did not open when the motor stopped. A broken spring on the first one and manufacturing defects on the batch of Jasons.

I absolutely cannot believe the amount of time that this took and all the second guessing that I went through. For the future, if the heat comes on and the motor doesn't spin it might be good to check the centrifugal switch, its so obvious once you look. I guess the other lesson learned is to trust what you're seeing even if it seems beyond belief.

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