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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Maytg MDBTT50AW dishwasher not cleaning |
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| Moderated by: BrntToast, RegUS_PatOff, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! |
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| Maytg MDBTT50AW dishwasher not cleaning | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Wed Jun 25th, 2008 08:37 pm |
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1st Post |
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lthames Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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We're having problems similar to many on this forum and I've followed some of the testing. I did the following . . . . "*Water level on this unit should be up to the bottom of the heating element (using the element as a face of a clock, use the 9 & 3 positions) when the water shuts off if filling correctly. When the unit is done filling and you get the pause prior to the motor kicking on, look at the float switch on the left hand side behind the kick plate. The float is down to fill and will rise allowing the plunger of the switch to extend and stop the fill. If you are not getting a pause between fill and motor operation, you might not be filling with enough water. If the float is still down, add until it raises and breaks the contacts. Shut the door and start the unit, do the arms now move? If so, could be clogged screens in the valve" This seems to be the problem, as adding water allowed the cycle to continue and the arms starting moving. But I can't seem to find out what he means by clogged screens in the valve. Is this the same thing as cleaning the mesh filter? Thanks!!!!! Lynn
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| Posted: Wed Jun 25th, 2008 09:22 pm |
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2nd Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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the mesh screen in the Water Fill Input Valve
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Wed Jun 25th, 2008 10:39 pm |
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3rd Post |
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lthames Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Can you tell me where I would find that in my model? I've followed the directions in a couple of other threads for Maytags but run into road blocks because the parts don't seem to be the same. I also found a part diagram on the website but I don't find an input water valve listed . . it only has the major parts. Thanks for any direction you can give us!
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| Posted: Wed Jun 25th, 2008 11:09 pm |
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4th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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click on picture![]() #2 in diagram ![]() Last edited on Wed Jun 25th, 2008 11:11 pm by RegUS_PatOff ____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Thu Jun 26th, 2008 01:32 pm |
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5th Post |
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lthames Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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ok . . . . I found and disassembled it and the wire mesh filter is clean. I read in another thread that there might be a washer behind it so I pried it out but there was nothing behind that. Do I have to replace the inlet valve or should I check something with the incoming hose or connections? Thanks!
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| Posted: Thu Jun 26th, 2008 06:24 pm |
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6th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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you could disconnect the output of the valve (hose into a bucket) and see how much water / pressure there is.
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Thu Jun 26th, 2008 07:50 pm |
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7th Post |
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Trying to help Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Yow definitely want to test your incoming line pressure as Reg pointed out (minimum 25PSI I believe). The new valve for these units has a greater GPM (Gallons Per Minute) rating to help in low pressure areas.
____________________ If we saved YOU Beer $$ today, please make a donation to our beer fund by clicking the link below to help keep this site going. I charge $135.95 PLUS PARTS to do this repair!$! http://fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| Posted: Fri Jun 27th, 2008 08:06 pm |
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8th Post |
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lthames Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Well . . . the dishwasher is fine (good news, I guess). The water coming out of the pipe (which T's off the kitchen sink pipe) was just a spary. We temporarily fixed the dishwasher by switching the hoses and using the 'faucet' outlet for the dishwasher. But now the kitchen sink has low water pressure! So . . . the faucet pipe has great water pressure but the T off of it has low water pressuer. I realize that's not an appliance problem, but if you have any direction on figuring this one out I would really appreciate it!
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| Posted: Fri Jun 27th, 2008 09:29 pm |
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9th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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could you post a picture of the pipe & T ?
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Fri Jun 27th, 2008 10:06 pm |
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10th Post |
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lthames Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I hope so Attachment: pipe1.jpg (Downloaded 17 times)
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| Posted: Fri Jun 27th, 2008 10:08 pm |
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11th Post |
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lthames Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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but I couldn't figure out how to do it in one reply Attachment: pipe3.jpg (Downloaded 16 times)
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| Posted: Fri Jun 27th, 2008 10:10 pm |
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12th Post |
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lthames Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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The T'd pipe that is pointing down is where the dishwasher WAS hooked up to when it wasn't filling properly. The hose coming out of the horizontal pipe right next to the cut off knob WAS going to the faucet. We switched them and the dishwaster is running GREAT . . . but the sink is not Attachment: pipe2.jpg (Downloaded 17 times)
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| Posted: Fri Jun 27th, 2008 10:10 pm |
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13th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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The pressure from the lower shut-off valve is low, even when the top one is not using water ? the lower shut-off valve may be bad Last edited on Fri Jun 27th, 2008 10:15 pm by RegUS_PatOff ____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Fri Jun 27th, 2008 10:14 pm |
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14th Post |
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lthames Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Yes, the bottom one is normally where the dishwasher is hooked up to. It is the one that comes out as a low pressure spay instead of 'full force'
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| Posted: Sat Jun 28th, 2008 01:30 am |
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15th Post |
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Trying to help Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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"If you are not getting a pause between fill and motor operation, you might not be filling with enough water. If the float is still down, add until it raises and breaks the contacts. Shut the door and start the unit, do the arms now move? If so, could be clogged screens in the valve" Glad to see someone listening and researching old posts! Reg has probably hit it on the head. Sounds like the lower shut off valve is either bad or clogged with crap. Anytime a connection comes off a T on the bottom, or any smaller size pipe or fittings are coupled and split in the way shown, the lower end is more susceptible to sucking crap and other matter into it and clogging.
____________________ If we saved YOU Beer $$ today, please make a donation to our beer fund by clicking the link below to help keep this site going. I charge $135.95 PLUS PARTS to do this repair!$! http://fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| Posted: Sat Jun 28th, 2008 12:10 pm |
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16th Post |
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lthames Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Thank you all for your help. To answer the last question . . . yes, the lower pipe has hardly any pressure (and comes out in a spray) even if the top one is shut off. We even turned the top on off at the valve. Since it is a plumbing problem, not an appliance problem, I'm calling in plumbing help . . . my brother-in-law is a plumber but not around here! Hopefully he'll be able to help me over the phone. Again, thanks for all your help.
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| Posted: Sat Jun 28th, 2008 12:52 pm |
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17th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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just buy another valve like the one that's bad, turn off main water supply and replace the valve, that should be threaded onto the copper pipe, but I can't tell from the picture. Last edited on Sat Jun 28th, 2008 12:54 pm by RegUS_PatOff ____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Sun Jun 29th, 2008 06:12 am |
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18th Post |
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Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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May not even need a new valve. After turning off water at main, you might want to just take the front off the valve and remove the innerards and see if there is any obvioius blockage. If so clean it out good and check the gasket and reassemble and you may be back in business.
____________________ William Burk (Willie) Willie's Budget Appliance Repair Eureka, CA 95501 |
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