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Maytag Dishwasher MDB7100AWW Not Draining and Lights Flashing

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Posted: Fri May 30th, 2008 09:16 am

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Bada Bing
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Not sure what's up here after doing some searches on the forums. I found a couple of inches of water in the bottom of the machine, and it seemed not to have completed its cycle--in fact the main detergent cup hadn't srpung open--and two lights were flashing on and off: the "Clean" light and the "Normal Wash" light.

I made sure that the drain connection at the disposal wasn't clogged, and looked under the machine, but without pulling it, I see no access to further hoses.

Is this an electronic issue, or is the pump failed? (I have noticed some odd sounds from this unit lately, like labored groaning, but not so far from normal.)

Thanks!

David

p.s., this machine is not included in Maytag's recall

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Posted: Fri May 30th, 2008 11:14 am

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Trying to help
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The clean light flashing with another light is an indication of a failure sensed by the board. You will want to access the wiring schematic under the kick plate and take a look at what it is indicating. You can then put the board into an auto diagnostics to see what it comes up with. I believe the fault code is for low or high current sensed. You will need a volt/ohm meter to ohm out the motor windings. If that is what the code is for, your start windings (wash and drain) are about 7 ohms each and your main winding 3.

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Posted: Fri May 30th, 2008 12:33 pm

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Bada Bing
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Thanks. I didn't see any wiring schematic so I called Maytag, and the person I reached wasn't able to be specific about the issue. I told her that I cut power to the unit for an hour and the lights wnet back toflashing when power was restored. Then when I hit the "drain" button, a solid light goes on there, the other flashing lights go off, and every 30 seconds or so I hear a buzz/hum, like something is trying to start a pump or open a valve.

Still a mystery?

David

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Posted: Fri May 30th, 2008 04:09 pm

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Trying to help
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The schematic is behind the kick-plate, sometimes tucked in behind the insulation attached to the kick-plate. On it will be troubleshooting and auto diagnostic tests. If you are counting over from the display window, which number key is the normal wash? Again, clean flashing indicates a failure and the other light will tell us where. You will still need an ohm meter to check a thing or two. Do you own one?

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Posted: Fri May 30th, 2008 04:17 pm

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Bada Bing
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I just see insulation. There's an upper plate, with insulation that can be pulled away--a bit moist, by the way--and I see no schematic. Then there's a lower plate about three inches high that rests at floor level. There the insulation is tightly attached with adhesive. I tried running a regular cycle with the dishwasher, and while the time counter counted down, the machine wouldn't start. Just that buzzing sound for a second, every 20-30 seconds...

Oh, and the normal wash key is the third one to the right of the timer display. And I do have a multimeter. Not always sure what to touch it to, though.

David

Last edited on Fri May 30th, 2008 04:19 pm by Bada Bing

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Posted: Fri May 30th, 2008 05:18 pm

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Trying to help
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Key pad 3 is high current sensed. You will want to ohm out your motor circuit. You are not ohming the harness to the motor, you are ohming the motor itself. The colors below match the colors on the harness leading to the motor, but you are ohming the motor pins themselves. If any are way out of spec or open, the motor is bad. If all checks fine at the motor, you will want to ohm the same circuit from the board down. If it is still good, then your board is bad. If now they are out of spec or open, then your harness is damaged. When ohming from the board down, you want the wires on the motor, but the harnesses pulled off the board to isolate the circuit.

Blue to Gray 7 Ohms

Blue to Red 7 Ohms

Blue to Yellow 3 Ohms

Attachment: MDB7100.png (Downloaded 142 times)

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Posted: Fri May 30th, 2008 05:38 pm

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Bada Bing
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Hi,

This is terrifically detailed. I wonder if there's a parts diagram for this that would show where the board is. I did see what must be the motor underneath, sitting dead center, with two wires leading down, one on the right and the other on the left. I suppose that those wires would lead to the board. Is the board encased in a little box to the left, about the volume of a tennis ball, but square?

Thanks a million!

David

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Posted: Fri May 30th, 2008 10:27 pm

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Trying to help
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The board in question is right behind the TP you hit to enter the programing. You have to take your door apart to access your board. The inner door liner is held on by 10 Torx screws or so. Once they are out, the inner and outer door will separate and you will have access to your control board. It is right behind the display screen or touch pad.

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Posted: Fri May 30th, 2008 10:44 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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yes,

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Posted: Mon Jun 2nd, 2008 11:11 am

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Bada Bing
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Sorry to be slow in reply to such generous messages. We got a new pup here and my hands are full this weekend.

I got around to pulling off the kickplate again and found a wire harness leading to what appears to be the motor. (The connector is a bit obscured in the attached picture--it's behind some wires, and to the lower right of the gold thing in the middle).

Anyway, I separated the wire connectors and touching the corresponding pins in the connecter leading to the motor, I got these readings:

Blue to Gray (should be 7 Ohms); Reading: a "1" way to the left on the readout

Blue to Red (should be 7 Ohms); Reading: 12-14 ohms

Blue to Yellow (should be 3 Ohms); Reading: 1 way to the left

Am I right that a number 1 way to the left on my mulitmeter indicates a lack of continuity? If so, I suppose the motor is shot. But I'm not sure I even did this correctly.

I notice that Consumer Reports suggests replacing 8 year old dishwashers. Do people here think otherwise? I'm not sure I'm ready to DIY this motor fix just now, or even ever! But I'll welcome any thoughts. Maybe it's simpler than it looks...

David

Attachment: motor.JPG (Downloaded 121 times)

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Posted: Mon Jun 2nd, 2008 12:02 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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Bada Bing wrote: ... Anyway, I separated the wire connectors and touching the corresponding pins in the connecter leading to the motor, I got these readings:

Blue to Gray (should be 7 Ohms); Reading: a "1" way to the left on the readout

Blue to Red (should be 7 Ohms); Reading: 12-14 ohms

Blue to Yellow (should be 3 Ohms); Reading: 1 way to the left

Am I right that a number 1 way to the left on my mulitmeter indicates a lack of continuity? If so, I suppose the motor is shot. But I'm not sure I even did this correctly.

Yes, a "1" (usually a flashing "1") way to the left would mean no continuity, if that's the same reading you get when the meter leads are not touching anything.

Last edited on Mon Jun 2nd, 2008 12:06 pm by RegUS_PatOff

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Posted: Mon Jun 2nd, 2008 12:10 pm

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Bada Bing
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I redid the readings, and the Blue to Gray was consistently a solid rather than flashing 1

Blue to red was 12 again

But this time Blue to Yellow read 2.7 ohms, suggesting that I did that one wrong first time?

So then maybe I'm still doing Blue-to-Gray wrong, but I think I got firm contact. And always the same reading. There's just little room and bad angles there.

Thanks,

David

p.s. A solid 1 is what I have when the leads are touching nothing.

Last edited on Mon Jun 2nd, 2008 12:12 pm by Bada Bing

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Posted: Mon Jun 2nd, 2008 12:56 pm

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Trying to help
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If you do not feel you are getting a good bite on the motor contacts, you can ohm it from the board down to make it easier. Just make sure you plug the harness back onto the motor, and pull the one off the board you are ohming. I am a little leery about the setting of the meter and the readings you provided. If you are open Blue to Gray as your test showed, you have a bad motor. To poll the motor out, you unplug all the harnesses, and remove the hoses. Y0ou then grab the white handle to the left of the motor and turn it back to the 10-11 O'clock position to free the motor. It will then lift up through the inside of your tub when you have the lower rack removed.

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Posted: Mon Jun 2nd, 2008 06:12 pm

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Bada Bing
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Doesn't sound too tough. I'll think about it. In fact, I'll start another thread on the repair/replace question. If I'm not mistaken the motor assembly is what would need to be ordered as a part, and that's about $205 at the local parts store I like to use, no doubt a bit cheaper online.

Thanks!!

David

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Posted: Tue Jun 3rd, 2008 06:51 pm

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15^th Post

Bada Bing
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So this repair can be done even without pulling the dishwasher out?

Thanks!

David

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Posted: Tue Jun 3rd, 2008 07:27 pm

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Trying to help
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10-4 Mr. Bing. Instructions start on page 3-16. This book is not for your unit!! But the Power module removal (Motor asm) is the same.

http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16007823.pdf

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Posted: Thu Nov 20th, 2008 03:15 am

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kerryc
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Hello,

I found my board to have three components blown on it.

Do I need to replace the entire board or can I solder on three new components?

Cheer. Kerry

Attachment: DishwasherBoard.jpg (Downloaded 83 times)

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Posted: Thu Nov 20th, 2008 03:35 am

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RegUS_PatOff
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kerryc wrote: ... Do I need to replace the entire board or can I solder on three new components? ...
The resistors look OK, but higher wattage ones would work OK, too.

If you can find a replacement part numer for the Relay
(and fix any damaged traces on the bottom of the PCB) it should be OK, it's been done before.

OR the Relay is OK, and it's just the PCB Foil damaged.

Last edited on Thu Nov 20th, 2008 03:36 am by RegUS_PatOff

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Posted: Sat Jan 10th, 2009 04:52 pm

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robbob
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I had almost the exact problem although in my case the smaller capacitor blew up. Bought a couple of 1uf 250V capacitors at Radioshack, soldered them in and the unit washing as we speak.

These blue units are Poly Film CAPACITORS. There are two capacitors, one 2.2uF and one 3.3uF and they are in parallel for a total of 5.5uF. These are 250V Poly cap capacitors from philips. Vishay makes them part #: 2222 373 41225. They can be bought at digikey, this link is for the 2.2uF cap:

http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/85429-cap-film-mkt-2-2uf-250vdc-10-2222-373-41225.html

If you are not familiar with capacitors be careful as you want equivalent replacements and most capacitors, if installed incorrectly will EXPLODE! Be careful.

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Posted: Tue Jun 30th, 2009 07:26 pm

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jillsogw
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I have a similar problem with the same model dishwasher. The codes on the front show a Motor - low current (keypad led 2). I

did the ohm check on the motor and the wiring harness. Meter showed the same with and w/o the harness.

bl - gry - 7.4

bl - red - 7.4

bl - ylw - 3.2

In looking at the circuit board there is some discoloration by the two resistor next to the 2 blue boxes ( relay).

Is there a way to check the circuit board to see if it is good or bad? With the testing I've already done is there something else that could be wrong? Gary J.

Last edited on Tue Jun 30th, 2009 07:30 pm by jillsogw

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