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| Samsung RS253BAWW | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Fri May 23rd, 2008 07:38 pm |
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1st Post |
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aimcorep Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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My Samsung RS253BAWW stopped cooling on the refer side. I disassembled the cooling tower and found the coil frozen solid. Defrosted the coils and reassembled. Located service manual and put refer into diagnostic mode three hours after restart. Codes came up as (14) PLC error and (07) Refer Defrost error. I would have someone come to fix the problem but no servicers with any Samsung experience will come to Cle Elum, WA. Where do I go from here? I am willing to replace boards but do not want to throw money away, any Ideas? Brad Wiechelman 425-501-8095
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| Posted: Fri May 23rd, 2008 10:32 pm |
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2nd Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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I can't find the service manual. Do you have a Literature Number ? Ignore the (14) PLC error: Attachment: samsung-ref-error-in-diagnostic-bulletin.pdf (Downloaded 34 times) Last edited on Fri May 23rd, 2008 10:35 pm by RegUS_PatOff ____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Fri May 23rd, 2008 10:59 pm |
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3rd Post |
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aimcorep Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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It saved as a pdf file named SAM0092 Last edited on Fri May 23rd, 2008 10:59 pm by aimcorep |
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| Posted: Fri May 23rd, 2008 11:03 pm |
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4th Post |
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aimcorep Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I have attached the file...
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| Posted: Fri May 23rd, 2008 11:11 pm |
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5th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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aimcorep wrote: I have attached the file...attachment limit is 200k aimcorep wrote: pdf file named SAM0092thanks I found it on the web... 5.85 MB Did you try the Forced Defrost Function on Page 30 ? You may have to do some voltage tests while in the defrost mode. Last edited on Fri May 30th, 2008 01:11 pm by RegUS_PatOff ____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Fri May 30th, 2008 03:12 am |
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6th Post |
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aimcorep Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I tried the forced defrost today, no results. Removed the cover from the cooling tower and manually defrosted so it will continue to work for a few more days. Everything seems to be working, with the exception of the defrost function in the refer side. I am still getting the defrost error, the note says it happens when the unit has not finished defrost mode in 80 minutes. Where to next?
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| Posted: Fri May 30th, 2008 01:08 pm |
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7th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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manually defrosted it... with a hair dryer ?... OK If you could check the resistance of the Defrost Heater and the Defrost Thermostat. Last edited on Fri May 30th, 2008 01:12 pm by RegUS_PatOff ____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Mon Jul 21st, 2008 02:02 am |
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8th Post |
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aimcorep Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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OK, I,m back, between a couple weeks vacation and lots of travel with work, this has been the last thing I want to deal with.... But I do deal with it about once a week I defost (hairdryer) and put it back together to get me through another week. I have checked resistance at all the points I could inside the refer. I am a rookie at this and don't even know where or how to check but I am willing to give it a try. Sinc the computer can tell me it has tryed to defrost, I am wondering if I should just replace the likely suspects. I would think they would be the heater (don't know where it is or what it looks like), the thermisor and the defrost sensor (although the sensor is telling the defrost cycle to start so it may not be likely. Can anyone tell me where to look and what I should do next?? Thanks, BW
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| Posted: Mon Jul 21st, 2008 03:13 am |
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9th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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if you could check the resistance or voltage of the Refrigerator Defrost Heater built into the Evaporator Assembly # 3 and the THERMO FUSE-ASSY # 24 RS253BAWW Parts List - REFRIGERATOR COMPARTMENT Section
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Mon Jul 21st, 2008 03:54 am |
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10th Post |
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Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Gotta love Samsing, to get the defrost heater replaced you have to order and replace the whole evaperator coil which is part of the sealed system, which is a major repair..so you DO NOT want to find an open defrost heater....wonder what the dude that dreamed this up was smokin....
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
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| Posted: Mon Jul 21st, 2008 12:22 pm |
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11th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Pegi wrote: Gotta love Samsing, to get the defrost heater replaced you have to order and replace the whole evaperator coil which is part of the sealed system, which is a major repair..so you DO NOT want to find an open defrost heater....wonder what the dude that dreamed this up was smokin.... Yes (and no) A few months ago I read (on another forum): ... I found a way to replace the broken one... ... It's not fastened by screws... ... rivets which you'll have to grind the head off. When you put it back together you could put more rivets in or sheet metal screws. ... pictures that show the separated defrost heater and evaporator... ... The old one was burned out at the joint. Maytag or Samsung part number DA96-00021N @ RepairClinic $ 59.96 Special Order. Usually ships in 12-14 business days.. ![]() Attachment: SAMSUNG Evaporator Heater Assembly.jpg (Downloaded 221 times) Last edited on Tue Oct 14th, 2008 01:49 pm by RegUS_PatOff ____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Mon Jul 21st, 2008 02:04 pm |
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12th Post |
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Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Yes, I have posted in here and other tech forums that people can order the evap coil with the heater and carefully remove the heater and use it to replace the bad one, just use the new evaperator coil for some cool art display or something....is just such a stupid design to dream up to not keep costs down on repairs out in the field....suppose it is to guarantee Samsung auth servicers get to rake in the money...sheesh
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
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| Posted: Tue Jul 22nd, 2008 01:09 am |
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13th Post |
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aimcorep Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Thanks for the replies!! I will check closer when I get back home this weekend, if I can find a short, I'll try the repair. The pictures help tremendously. Thanks again to both of you, I'll write back with my results. BW
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| Posted: Sun Aug 10th, 2008 08:32 pm |
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14th Post |
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aimcorep Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Once again I'm back. I usually wait until I have to defrost before worrying about it, so here I go again. I did some checking, keep in mind that I only know enough to be dangerous with a meter. I checked the readings at the main PCB by disconnecting the lead and checking CN70 between 9 and 7 as indicated in the manual. I got an open circuit which tells me either "Temperature fuse, heater or wires short trouble". I was able to check the temp sensor and it was working fine. so I can eliminate that. I believe that leaves only the defroster or the thermal fuse (thermistor?). I would lean toward the defroster as that would be my normal luck, however... When I had the interior apart for defrosting (I am getting good at it), did an ohms check at the lead to the coil, I had the meter set at 200 ohms and by connecting to both wires it read 86.7, all that I know about that is enough to figure it is not shorted or open. I think that eliminates the defroster and leaves the thermal fuse. At least that is what I am hoping. I should ad that I plugged the fridge back in about two hours ago, and put it into load operation check mode, it showed the refer defrost working. I figured that the fault code would show after it ran for 80 to 100 minutes as it usually does. Just checked it again, the refer defrost is no longer running and there is no error code yet. I won't hold lots of hope but who knows, maybe moving the PCB and plugs was enough... ??? My manual has an exploded view with reference numbers but no part numbers or description, where would I find the correct numbers and where would you recommend purchasing the parts if I need them? Thanks for any help, BW
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| Posted: Sun Aug 10th, 2008 08:36 pm |
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15th Post |
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Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Put the model number in the box at the top of this page, shows some of the parts for this model, I did see a lot of them no longer available however, that is scary...
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
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| Posted: Thu Aug 21st, 2008 12:47 am |
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16th Post |
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aimcorep Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Just wanted to say Thanks!! Turns out it was the thermal fuse. I was a little concerned, but I got the correct part the first time. Fixed the problem. Thanks again for your help! BW
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