- Home


Air Conditioners | Dehumidifiers | Dishwashers | Disposals | Dryers | Freezers | Humidifiers | Ice Makers | Microwave Ovens | Ovens, Ranges, Stoves | Refrigerators | Trash Compactors | Washers | Water Filters

FAQs | Contact | Apprenticeship | Parts | Model Number Help | Newsletter | Beer

Find Appliance Parts & Diagrams Here
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.

365-day return policy on all parts ordered through this site!


 Moderated by: Samurai Appliance Repair Man Search Our Sites for More Info!
New Topic Reply Printer Friendly
417-440925000  Rating:  Rating
AuthorPost
 Posted: Thu Feb 7th, 2008 09:05 pm
  PM Quote Reply
1st Post
moonshouse
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
 

Joined: Tue Feb 5th, 2008
Location:  
Posts: 5
Flavorite Brew: coors lite
Status: 
Offline
I HAVE A KENMORE 417-440925000 FRONT LOADING WASHER, IT WASHES FINE AND DRAINS BUT, ALAS, NO SPIN, I THINK IT IS TRYING TO ENTER THE SPIN CYCLE AND WILL GO ABOUT 2 SLOW ROTATAIONS EACH WAY THEN IT QUITS THE DISPLAY SIMULTANIOUSLY GOES BLANK AND THERE ARE 2 SETS OF BEEPS FOLLOWING, THE DISPLAY REMAINS BLANK AND THE MACHINE DOES NOTHING MORE. IN YOUR EARLIER POSTS IT SEEMS TO POINT TO THE SPIN CONTROL BOARD, BUT THERE IS NOT A LISTING FOR ONE ON MY MODEL

Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: Thu Feb 7th, 2008 11:35 pm
  PM Quote Reply
2nd Post
appl.tech.29501
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology


Joined: Sun Oct 7th, 2007
Location: South Carolina USA
Posts: 6784
Flavorite Brew: waffle house coffee
Status: 
Offline
I cant find a motor control board for your model either....yours may not have one. I did find the main control board, here's the link

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1191291

Remove the fron panel and get the tech sheet...it should have diagnostics to help determine your problem

Last edited on Fri Feb 8th, 2008 01:10 pm by Samurai Appliance Repair Man



____________________
Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Fri Feb 8th, 2008 12:20 am
  PM Quote Reply
3rd Post
jambatt
Scholar of Advanced Appliantological Studies


Joined: Thu Jul 12th, 2007
Location: 23 Miles Offshore
Posts: 623
Flavorite Brew: Heiniken
Status: 
Offline
Motor control board.

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1191307

Last edited on Fri Feb 8th, 2008 01:10 pm by Samurai Appliance Repair Man



____________________
Don't take life too seriously, none of us get out alive !
Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: Fri Feb 8th, 2008 07:07 am
  PM Quote Reply
4th Post
Budget Appliance Repair
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
 

Joined: Sat Apr 2nd, 2005
Location: Eureka, California USA
Posts: 2870
Flavorite Brew: 
Status: 
Offline
Don't be too quick to blame the speed control board.

Make sure the wax motor in the door lock is working, I just had two in the last week were the wax motor that actually keeps the door locked for 2 minutes didn't activate so no high speed spin.

Put the unit in spin and let it run for about 5 minutes then pull the plug and try to open the door, if the door lock light was on when you pulled the plug and you are able to open the door as soon as you unplug the machine then most likely you have a bad wax motor on the door lock/switch assembly.

If not that then most likely to be the speed control board.

Please, also check your model#, the number you gave isn't coming up anywhere.



____________________
William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501
Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Mon Feb 11th, 2008 09:44 pm
  PM Quote Reply
5th Post
moonshouse
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
 

Joined: Tue Feb 5th, 2008
Location:  
Posts: 5
Flavorite Brew: coors lite
Status: 
Offline
I CANNOT PUT MACHINE IN SPIN IT QUITS W/ 7 MIN LEFT, IT ONLY TUMBLES BACK AND FORTH A FEW TIMES WHEN PUT IN DRAIN/SPIN MODE, COUNTS DOWN TO 7 FROM 13 THE SHUTS DOWN, MACHINE # IS CORRECT BUT HAS ONE TOO MANY ZERO'S, I HAVE REPLACED THE MOTOR CONTROL BOARD WITH NO CHANGE IN SYMPTOMS, IT DOES NOT GIVE  ANY CODES AND SCREEN GOES BLANK, IS IT EVEN POSSIBLE THE DOOR SWITCH COULD DO THAT? CANNOT TEST BY UNPLUG METHOD SUGGESTED AS IS WONT SPIN AT ALL

Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: Tue Feb 12th, 2008 10:48 am
  PM Quote Reply
6th Post
Budget Appliance Repair
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
 

Joined: Sat Apr 2nd, 2005
Location: Eureka, California USA
Posts: 2870
Flavorite Brew: 
Status: 
Offline
I can almost guarantee you it's a bad wax motor in the door switch.

That is the exact thing you will see on these electronic control models when that part of the door lock/switch goes bad.

If you remove the front lower access panel you should find an envelope taped to the left side wall of the washer, it will have the info you need to put the machine into a diagnotic mode and read the error codes.

You will more then likely come up with a code indicating PTC of door lock/latch is bad, (PTC = Positive Thermal Coefficent?? heater disc on wax motor).

There are two normally open contacts in the door switch, a relay coil and the wax motor. When the door is shut the machine sends 110volts to the relay coil which will close the main set of contacts in the switch, (if the door isn't closed or the latch is broken then the coil can't lock the door and close the contacts so machine won't work at all).

Once the machine sends power to the relay coil and sees that the main contacts are closed it lets the machine start. When you get to a spin cycle, then the wax motor is powered up with 110volts which will physically lock the door shut, and also close the other set of contacts in the door lock/switch. When the machine sees that the lock contacts are closed it can go into high speed spin.

If you pull the power cord when the machine is in a high speed spin, you will not be able to open the door for about 2 minutes, (this is the safety to keep you from trying to reach in when the tub is still spinning), the approximate time of 2 minutes is the time it takes the wax motor to cool down after power has been removed and retract to it's normal unlock position.



____________________
William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501
Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Fri Feb 15th, 2008 10:58 pm
  PM Quote Reply
7th Post
moonshouse
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
 

Joined: Tue Feb 5th, 2008
Location:  
Posts: 5
Flavorite Brew: coors lite
Status: 
Offline
PROBLEM FINALLY CURED, COULD NOT DIAGNOSE WAX MOTOR BY UNPLUGGING DURING SPIN AS MACHINE WOULD NOT GO INTO SPIN MODE AND SHUT ITSELF OFF, FINALLY TOOK WAX MOTOR APART IN THE DOOR SWITCH AND FOUND WAX WAS ALL OVER IT - HMMMM, DOOR SWITCH COSTS $53, WAS ABLE TO FIND SAME WAX MOTOR FROM MAYTAG DISHWASHER P/N 99001807                                                          REPAIR CLINIC PART # 752102 $17,

THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP   - TERRY

FOR BETTER EXPLANATION TO US APPRENTIE, THE DOOR LOCK MECHANISM HAS 2 ELECTRONIC LOCKS - ONE IS A SIMPLE SOLENOID - I MISUNDERSTOOD THAT THE WAX MOTOR WAS THE ONLY LOCKING MECHANISM IN THE DOOR

 

Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: Sat Feb 16th, 2008 08:21 am
  PM Quote Reply
8th Post
Budget Appliance Repair
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
 

Joined: Sat Apr 2nd, 2005
Location: Eureka, California USA
Posts: 2870
Flavorite Brew: 
Status: 
Offline
moonshouse wrote:
PROBLEM FINALLY CURED, COULD NOT DIAGNOSE WAX MOTOR BY UNPLUGGING DURING SPIN AS MACHINE WOULD NOT GO INTO SPIN MODE AND SHUT ITSELF OFF, FINALLY TOOK WAX MOTOR APART IN THE DOOR SWITCH AND FOUND WAX WAS ALL OVER IT - HMMMM, DOOR SWITCH COSTS $53, WAS ABLE TO FIND SAME WAX MOTOR FROM MAYTAG DISHWASHER P/N 99001807 REPAIR CLINIC PART # 752102 $17,

THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP - TERRY

FOR BETTER EXPLANATION TO US APPRENTIE, THE DOOR LOCK MECHANISM HAS 2 ELECTRONIC LOCKS - ONE IS A SIMPLE SOLENOID - I MISUNDERSTOOD THAT THE WAX MOTOR WAS THE ONLY LOCKING MECHANISM IN THE DOOR




Excellent repair Terry!!!!

I was trying to get all the info together to give you the exact advice you figured out on your own.

I did some failure analysis on three of these door lock/switchs. I've replaced 3 in the last 30 days that where just between 1 and 2 years old with the same problem. Out of three of the wax motors, 2 of them checked ok electrically and when I disassembled the wax motor and ran it without the heavy spring, the plunger just barely pushed out in one and came out all the way in the other but was very easily pushed back in with a screwdriver. The third one the little wax mechanism was totally rusted and so enough power couldn't get thru it and it showed no continuity but did heat up slightly.

I've actually never seen any of the contact points in these switches fail only the wax motors. The wax motor is not listed separate so no way to get it unless you figure out like you did. If you can find the correct wax motor as you did that would be the fix I would do for my customers instead of charging $48.95 for a complete new lock assembly just replace the wax motor at a cost of less then $20.

I found that exact same wax motor on a door from a Maytag dishwasher at the scrapyard and didn't have a model# it came from, the part# 6914116 is stamped on the part and on the picture you refered to at RepairClinc doesn't come up anywhere as a good number, (Note: the one you found is electrically rated and shape and size is exact, the only difference is the the part manufactures OEM part# on the wax motor out of the Frigidarire locks is labeled 11176-63 and the one you found which is in the Maytag dishwashers dispenser is 11176-61).

Thank you for posting the original Maytag wax motor part#, that has helped me greatly.

And as far as testing goes, you could have tested, machine didn't have to be spinning to do test, in the last spin cycle the wax motor is energized as soon as the pump starts pumping, it takes about 1 1/2 minutes for the wax motor to activate if it is working correctly, (I always give it at least 2 minutes), then unplug the machine and try to open door. If the door opens the wax motor is bad,(that is if it was getting power, you would need to check to be sure), otherwise it will take about 2 minutes before you can open the door, the time it takes for the wax motor to cool down and go back to it's normal resting state.



____________________
William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501
Back To Top PM Quote Reply

Current time is 08:31 am Tell a friend about this page... all your other friends are doing it!  
- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > 417-440925000 Top



Find Appliance Parts & Diagrams Here
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.

365-day return policy on all parts ordered through this site!

FAQs | Contact | Apprenticeship | Parts | Model Number Help | Newsletter | Beer

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
- Home
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly, spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."


UltraBB 1.17 Copyright © 2007-2008 Data 1 Systems
Page processed in 0.0906 seconds (9% database + 91% PHP). 26 queries executed.

Web Analytics