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Compressor will not start, humms  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Mon Mar 3rd, 2008 02:02 am
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FREONBOB
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i know this is a long shot  but  YOU ARE PLUGGED RIGHT INTO A WALL OUTLET ?  NO POWER CORDS OR POWER BLOCKS OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT ........... RIGHT !

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 Posted: Mon Mar 3rd, 2008 02:16 pm
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himeros

 

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Where did you consider the efficiency of the compressor in these figures?   How about the efficiency of the condenser and evaporator coils to do their job.  So much to consider.

H.

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 Posted: Mon Mar 3rd, 2008 03:13 pm
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Keinokuorma
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Of course these add up to the total result. But in general, if a heat pump was of weaker efficiency ratio than 1,0 it would be easier and more economical to just heat with direct elecricity.

2,4 for an efficiency factor on a fridge that is already cold inside, hot outside, and possibly a wee bit dusty and frosty, would be plausible. BTW its heating factor would be 3,4 then... all of the work done in the compressor will eventually turn into heat on the outside... so those 120-some watts PLUS the heat pumped from the inside, are exhausted on the outside.

Although it would not heat the kitchen by more than those 120-some watts when it was running... every time you open the door some of the exhausted heat enters and must be pumped out again... plus defrost heat etc... but what I'm going after here is that the fridge is more efficient in moving heat out of the cabinet, than in producing heat of its own or consuming energy.

There are of course limits for the function.

If the cabinet interior is so cold that the freon no more evaporates, no more heat will be extracted. The system will run continuously and produce heat respectively to its energy consumption.

If the environment where the fridge was installed, gets too hot for much heat to dissipate, the freon that is fed back to the evaporator is still hot. Although it evaporates it is already about as warm as the interior air, and the cooling isn't very efficient either.

But as said before, I'm rather sure that the 900 BTU rating means that it can nominally move 900 BTU/h heat outside of the cabinet. Also if everything is right, it will cycle off for good long periods when the temperature has been reached, and it will not consume energy comparably to 900 BTU/h even if running constantly.



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 Posted: Mon Mar 3rd, 2008 10:14 pm
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himeros

 

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You are probably close to right, but I am sure they check the BTU under perfect conditions in a lab, not like the real world.  It is good to see your posts, thanks.

H.

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 Posted: Tue Mar 4th, 2008 12:56 am
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Keinokuorma
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Of course it is just a lab tested (or assumed) value... like they do with dishwashers etc... they give you information like gallons of water per cycle, and energy per cycle... especially the energy part depends on how cold the intake water is... how cold the dishes are, how many dishes you load...

There's no way for them to know how exactly your appliances are installed, ventilated etc... how cold your intake water is for the DW, how wet your clothes are when you load them in the dryer, how cold the intake air is, how long the vent is etc... they can assume some likely situation and test it in the lab, but they aren't likely to come up with anyone's specific situation.

Well, in my home I get mostly lukewarm or scalding hot water (lukewarm, like you can well take showers with cold water only, and scalding hot, like really steaming).

So when I installed my DW, it said in the manual that the maximum temp for intake water is 60 centigrades, for the sake of the internal softener, apparently. So I thought, lukewarm still saves some energy, compared to real chilly water (like they get in my mom's apartment for example). I mostly drink beer and bottled water anyway, so I don't really mind the water being lukewarm. It's OK for the coffee maker too, for an obvious reason.



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 Posted: Tue Mar 4th, 2008 03:48 am
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himeros

 

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You really should cut out that water, and drink more beer, better for you.  Does your dw like lukewarm water?  Some models here used to run the heater if the water was not warm enough, still may be cheaper than running the heater hotter.  Do you have the hot water on demand type of system?

H.

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 Posted: Tue Mar 4th, 2008 09:29 am
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Keinokuorma
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I quickly got a cheap Siemens when I moved, €299 by then... plain simple build, mechanic timer, one temp setting, four cycle lengths (1 to 3 pre-rinses) plus rinse only (uses the last rinse portion of the main wash cycle). It heats whatever comes in to 60C for the second pre-rinse, wash, and last rinse, and has only one water intake port.

I'm not drinking much of the plain tap water here, but like I said I don't mind. I use it for cooking, washing, shower, coffee and the DW and it perhaps saves some cents every now and then to have warm water to heat. And the best of it, I don't need much of hot water, that means most of what I use comes thru the cold meter. Perhaps I could use the DW with hot water here, never measured, but seems it's hotter than 60 and maybe it ruins the softener, maybe not. The kitchen faucet I now have doesn't support hot water for DW, so I'd have to rig up a separate valve to the pipes, or change the faucet to a more modern one.

Last edited on Tue Mar 4th, 2008 09:37 am by Keinokuorma



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