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Bosch SHU33A06UC/22 DW won't drain  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sat Dec 29th, 2007 10:53 pm
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bschadel
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DW was unused for 2 months while she who cooks was out of town. When we finally ran it, the dishes got clean but all the water (still soapy) remained in the bottom (and on the floor after the door was opened). Restarting and/or using the "stop and drain" function results in an occasional soft click, but nothing that sounds like a pump. If I start it and wait a minute or so, the water will begin to circulate internally, but nothing will get it to drain.

During Wife's absence I replaced the kitchen sink. I reinstalled the original disposer (so yes, the KO is out) using a new air gap. Can't imagine how that would cause this problem.

Parts are under warranty for another month, but it would be nice to save the hassle and expense of a service call if I just need to rap on something with a hammer. Any ideas?

Thanks,
--Bruce--


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 Posted: Sat Dec 29th, 2007 11:12 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Need to pull those kickplates and get your meter on the pump power leads, see if you're getting 120vac there during pumpout cycle.



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 Posted: Sun Dec 30th, 2007 01:03 pm
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Chat_in_RI



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bschadel wrote: During Wife's absence I replaced the kitchen sink. I reinstalled the original disposer (so yes, the KO is out) using a new air gap. Can't imagine how that would cause this problem.

Thanks,
--Bruce--




Check drain line to disposer is free from obstruction/clog, especially if the drain line goes down, then up from the disposer. In the last 2 days, I have seen drain lines clogged with rice and grease from the disposer.

Chat



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 Posted: Sun Dec 30th, 2007 07:06 pm
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bschadel
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man wrote: Need to pull those kickplates and get your meter on the pump power leads, see if you're getting 120vac there during pumpout cycle.
Must have been a cold, quiet night in New England! Thanks, guys.

Being an electronics technician, I had the same thought--find the pump and check for power (or continuity). So I removed the kickplate this a.m. but I can't see (let alone reach) much of anything. Like looking under the hood of a late-model car.

But I did find a wiring diagram all folded up small which I am about to scan. It told me what color wires to look for and I found them under a plastic cap shown in the photo. I managed somehow to get alligator clips on the terminals and measured 16 ohms (with the ckt breaker off). And I DO get 120 VAC during the drain cycle, so it would seem that the pump is locked up.

--Bruce--

Attachment: DSCF0831_arrow.jpg (Downloaded 43 times)

Last edited on Sun Dec 30th, 2007 08:39 pm by bschadel

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 Posted: Sun Dec 30th, 2007 09:49 pm
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bschadel
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Even a blind pig sometimes finds an acorn...

I bailed the water out of the tub and found a cover to remove to expose the drain impeller. And there was a piece of glass wedged up against it like a brake shoe. You can see it in the photo.

All's well now, woo hoo!

Thanks again and have happy New Year.
--Bruce--

Attachment: DSCF0837_arrow.jpg (Downloaded 42 times)

Last edited on Sun Dec 30th, 2007 09:50 pm by bschadel

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 Posted: Mon Dec 31st, 2007 08:13 am
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Budget Appliance Repair
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There you go!!! GOOD JOB!!!!

I just had one of those same things happen on a Bosch dishwasher job a few months ago. Easy Fix.

Next time, if you need to get to the drain or wash pump or fill valve or just to dry water out of bottom pan for some reason, if you remove the door panel you will be amazed at how much more room you've got to work under there and actually "KIND OF" get to things a little easier.

You do notice I said, "KIND OF", I still hate working on this style of machine unless it's an easy fix like you just had.



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 Posted: Mon Dec 31st, 2007 07:09 pm
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bschadel
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Thanks Willie,

I did consider removing the door, but since the controls and presumably, the control board are in the door I thought removing it might prevent me from making voltage checks.

--Bruce--

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 Posted: Tue Jan 1st, 2008 10:04 am
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Budget Appliance Repair
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bschadel wrote:
Thanks Willie,

I did consider removing the door, but since the controls and presumably, the control board are in the door I thought removing it might prevent me from making voltage checks.

--Bruce--


You don't remove the door, only the door panel, there's like 4 or 6, (can't remember for sure), torq screws that hold the panel on. Remove them and the panel cover slips off and gives you about an extra 3"-5" of work room under the door area.



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William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
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 Posted: Tue Jan 1st, 2008 04:56 pm
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bschadel
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Budget Appliance Repair wrote: bschadel wrote:
Thanks Willie,

I did consider removing the door, but since the controls and presumably, the control board are in the door I thought removing it might prevent me from making voltage checks.

--Bruce--


You don't remove the door, only the door panel, there's like 4 or 6, (can't remember for sure), torq screws that hold the panel on. Remove them and the panel cover slips off and gives you about an extra 3"-5" of work room under the door area.

Aha :idea:
Thanks again Willie :cheers:
I will definitely file that nugget for future reference :contract:

--Bruce--

Last edited on Tue Jan 1st, 2008 05:04 pm by bschadel

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