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Maytag MAH3000AWW  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Sun Nov 25th, 2007 03:09 pm
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Snappy
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I have a Maytag MAH3000AWW that was purchased in 1998.  Apart from the mold issue (long since fixed by Maytag), the unit has worked like a charm.  Unitl Now.....

No matter what part of the cycle I start the unit in, it will run for 20-40 seconds, then sit idle for another 30-60 second and turn itself off.  I have visually inspected the control board and no resistors are blown, including the infamous R11.  The unit fills with water and drains fine, but the drum does not turn in any part of the cycle.

Any advice on where to go next?

Last edited on Sun Nov 25th, 2007 03:10 pm by Snappy

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 Posted: Sun Nov 25th, 2007 03:20 pm
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Trying to help
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You will want to take the front off of the unit but leave the door on.  Remove the two screws from the hinges, and the plates opposite of the hinge location on the other side of the opening (for door reversal).  The front will then remove.  After that, close the door, put the timer in a 6 hour delay, and pull the JP4 (Yellow, Red, Blue and a double White Jumper  ) connector off the motor control board which is located behind the front panel on the front right machine floor and let it hang in the air.   When you press the start button in this position, JP4 off, in delay, washer door closed you are in a motor test.  The motor should start spinning in one direction at 50 RPM's.  If it does, let it run for a minute or two to see if it shuts off or if it will run.  If it does not, you will need to do a voltage test on the board at the connector that has a white wire and a black wire (a green ground I believe as well).  If you have 120VAC from white to black, and the motor is not turning, you will need the part listed below. 

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=949491



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 Posted: Sun Nov 25th, 2007 03:56 pm
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Snappy
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Thanks.  I have done as instructed.  The motor did not start.  I am unable to test the voltage at the board where the black and white wires connect as I have to get my multimeter back from the friend I lent it to. 

As I understand it, if there is 120VAC at the control board, the motor is bad.  If there is not 120VAC at the board, am I to assume that the board is bad, or are there more diagnostics?  Also if the board is bad, what is the part number for it?

Thanks again.

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 Posted: Sun Nov 25th, 2007 04:03 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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the part # listed in the previous post was a kit containing motor and board.



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 Posted: Sun Nov 25th, 2007 04:37 pm
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Trying to help
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The part I listed is the motor control board and motor.  If the upper board (behind the console) is bad, you will need the part listed below.  Chances are you will find you need the motor/motor control kit. 

 http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=775783



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 Posted: Thu Dec 6th, 2007 09:53 pm
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Snappy
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Thanks!  The motor and motor control did the trick.  It was back up and running in about 45 minutes.   Beer fund contribution on the way.

One last question.  Any uses for the old motor and contoller.  Do I recycle them somewhere or trash them?

Thanks!
[url=javascript:emoticon(':cool:', 'images/emoticons/cool.gif')]document.write('[/url]

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 Posted: Mon Dec 24th, 2007 01:58 am
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nibornm
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Hi, I've been experiencing the same problem = will not spin but washes fine.

As recommended by "Trying to help" - I took JP4 off the motor control board and ran the motor test.  It ran for 10 to 15 minutes at about 50 r.p.m.  Seeing that as a successful motor test I pressed STOP.

My question is:

    Now what? :(

Do I have a bad machine control board (again)?

I replaced the machine control about 3 years ago, maybe four, because I had (yes, you guessed it) the dreaded R11/Q6 / wax motor problem.  Yes, we claimed off Maytag but all we got was a $280 coupon... towards the purchase of another Maytag appliance - duh - such a deal!

I'd be really glad to know what you recommend might be wrong or what to test next.

Thanks too, to the great person who scanned and shared the repair manual, which I'm reading for extra ideas.  Yah boo sucks to Maytag - especially for all their non-help !!

The beer fund money is waiting :)

Cheers,

Nibor, a.k.a. the crazy Brit, or was that the looney limey?

 

 



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 Posted: Mon Dec 24th, 2007 04:25 am
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jim1872003
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Did you look at the board? Is R11 fried again?

If so, replace the board, the wax motor and microswitches on the door latch.

If not, check unbalance switches.



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 Posted: Mon Dec 24th, 2007 05:39 am
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nibornm
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R11 is fine.

I was pretty much at the point where I was resigned to buying a new machine control board BUT I looked at page 2-10 of the repair manual where it talks about the inertial unbalance switch.

I decided to check it out.

I found where the two blue leads running from it go to a connector and the cable colour changes to orange.  I disconnected that connector and continuity tested the blue cables (and thus the switch and the circuit was closed.

I reconnected the connector and retested the spin cycle and my flabber was totally ghasted - the machine spun correctly.

Verdict - So far as I can tell the (inertial unbalance switch) connector wasn't fully connected, maybe it shook loose but now the machine is spinning like a top.

I'm so relieved and glad not to be about $200 out of pocket.

The moral: Keep checking the connections.  A similar connector problem caused our Bosch dishwasher to malfunction.

Thank you all for your advice.

It's working - Yippee!!

Oh yes, I almost forgot... I had a nice cool glass of Stone's Ruination IPA to celebrate.



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 Posted: Mon Dec 24th, 2007 12:42 pm
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Trying to help
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Glad you are up and running.  The post above yours was for a machine that would only run for 30 seconds or so.  On a unit that will run fine all the way through the cycle but just not spin, the Out of Balance and Spin enable circuits are your most likely suspects.  Good find and I am glad you didn't purchase a part you did not need.



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 Posted: Mon Apr 12th, 2010 12:34 am
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Shawnna



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Ok - now my Maytag Neptune MAH3000AWW is on the fritz and I need help.  This older thread probably has my solution but I want to be sure I'm not wasting money on a control board if that isn't the problem. 

And you all helped me fix my GE refrigerator so I'm confident I can do this too with your help.

My previous apprenticeship expired on April 3, 2010 so I purchased the full year this time.

:D

Now to the problem....  the washer appears to work fine up until the rinse cycle.  The softener never gets added and it stopped all together at the 3rd rinse indicator and clothes were sopping wet.  Seems to be a spin problem but I did get it to spin fine - once.

I removed the hoses and there's nothing accumulated there and both hot and cold water get into the machine just fine.

Any suggestions at this point?

Thanks in advance!  I know with your help I can get this old machine going again soon!



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 Posted: Mon Apr 12th, 2010 12:39 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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please start a New Topic



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 Posted: Mon Apr 12th, 2010 12:43 am
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Shawnna



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mmmmm

ok

:(



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