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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Frigidaire Gallery Dryer Model #FDE437GHSO

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Frigidaire Gallery Dryer Model #FDE437GHSO  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Sun Oct 28th, 2007 02:29 pm
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homescool
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Had a previous post about this demon infested dryer. :poison:  Dryer about 7 yrs old.  About 1 yr ago replaced.
1. Front glides/felt strip
2. Rear bearing kit
BECASUSE of the squealing - not other problems at this time.
Cleaned dryer vents and dryer REALLY good from top to bottom/inside out -I a a fanatic about clean vents - not just the front lint one either -Baby sister almost lost her house with dryer fire- too much lint.
Needless to say when we bult our new house 7 yrs ago we have cleaned the lint trap EVERY time we dry a load, use the long lint brush once a month, clean the outside flow cover nce a month and clean all the vents from bottom of dryer to outside ever 4-6 months.  We cleaned the entire venting system when we had the dryer open and it was pretty clean to start with - I guess what I am trying to say is MY VENTS ARE CLEAN!  YIPPEE!:D So, being a tiny grasshopper I do not want to presume but I am willing to bet it is not dryer vent clog or flow problem.  Great flow to outside and when dryer is running - enough of that and on to the real problem.
About a a month ago dryer was squeaking/squealing like before we replaced the bearing kit  - just ever now and then then unbearable.  It also was not drying the clothes as fast - taking up to 3-4 times to get them dry.
The strange thing was the top pf the dryer always got warm - just under the timer control alll the way to the front - about a 6 inch wide area) I used it to dry the VERY rare $1 bill I found in the dryer by laying it in that area)
NOW, this area was so hot you could not leave your had on it for more than a few seconds without getting almost burned.
So, I consulted the great appliance guru' s on this wonderful site(YES - we have donated to the all powerful beer fund!)
I received sevearl good suggestions and we have replaced this to date.
1.  Rear bearing kit - it now runs quiet as a mouse!
2.  Thermostat - the one below the control knob under the hood.
3.  Front glides and felt strip again.
When we turned it back on - it ran fine but the heating elements did not come on.
So, hubby checked heating elements with ohm meter( he is not an electrician but he plays one when I cry long enough) It shows continuity.  He checked the thermostate we just replaced, the other little thermostat or safety therostat(we are not sure really what it is - it is very close to the thermostat up top) and the cycling thermostat at the bottom of the machine.  They all show continunity(sp?)
So, not knowing what else to do we took the dang thing apart again to rechedk our connections and they were fine, double checked the ohm meter readings, vents etc. and
3.  replaced the cycling thermostat.
We put back together and guess what?? STILL NO HEAT!!! :yikes::yikes: The heating elements are not coming on!  ARGH!!!!  CURSES!!!!:X
PLEASE can someone give us a clue as we are indeed clueless.:?
We feel pretty comfortable workign on this ting - with your great help!:D
To add insult to injury - the whirlpool washer -same age decided it was not getting enough attention and the top part of the agitator is not agitating so that is our next PROBLEM - with appliances that is.
I thank you for all of you help!!!

Respectfully,

Tiny Grasshopper Homescool

Last edited on Sun Oct 28th, 2007 02:30 pm by homescool

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 Posted: Sun Oct 28th, 2007 03:52 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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sorry to hear your struggles, I can feel your pain...lol. It's time to play electrician again....check your wall outlet and make sure you have 220V. It's common that half of your breaker will trip and the dryer will run and not heat. If you have 220v at the outlet, move on to the terminal block(where the cord goes into the dryer). these dryers are kinda bad for the power cord burning at the terminal block. Also, did you check continuity of the heating element with the wires unplugged? You stated that the dryer would get to hot to touch on the top, that usually means 1 of 2 things,

1. an air flow problem (which I believe you when you say the vent is not an issue ;)

2. the heating element is shorted to ground

check your voltages first and if that was the problem and the dryer begins to heat again, but still gets too hot the disconnect the vent from the machine and run the dryer in a fluff cycle(no heat cycle) if the dryer still heats when it's not suppose too then you know the heating element is shorted to ground.

Now for your washer, this is a simple repair only requiring some eyeballs, a 7/16" nut driver or ratchet w/ extension, and a part #80040 Dog kit,



 

which you can get from repair clinic.

basically you just pull the adjitator out and disassemble and replace the gears. Good luck, hope this helps.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 28th, 2007 06:34 pm
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homescool
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Bless you! :D We will give it a try.  We did not check the heating element witht he wires unplugged as it was working fine before the repairs and after another inspection it appeared intact, however we will do that now as well as your other fine advice - hope it works - will report back!  THANK YOU for the fast response - This is the best site ever!:D

Homescool

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 Posted: Sun Oct 28th, 2007 07:10 pm
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Scottthewolf

 

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It is also very possible that when you removed the drum to replace the rear bearing, you might have ripped the heater element coil.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 28th, 2007 07:54 pm
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homescool
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We have had it apart 3 times now - just this morning.  The coild looks to be in good shape but who knows.  We are going to try to run the test suggested earlier.
One thing we did do that I did not mention - the heater coil had come unattached from one of the insulators.  Hubby gently put it back and looked at it first to see if it looked worn or torn.  The entire  coil actually looks to be in fairly new condition.  We did inspect it this morning for breaks and found none but that does not mean another look would hurt!  THANK YOU!!:D
BWT,  is there a place in the forum that tells what the readings should be on an ohm meter(hubby probably knows) or how to go about testing the outlet etc.?
 THANK YOU AGAIN - I am stunned by the fast responses and great help - I am going to have to donate more to that beer fund!

Homescool

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 Posted: Mon Oct 29th, 2007 11:52 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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your element will either show resistance or not. if it shows it's good, if it shows nothing then it's bad.





hope this helps :)



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 Posted: Tue Oct 30th, 2007 12:20 am
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hvacdrd
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Also check the timer contacts from A to B. To test it with power off(meaning unplugged) set the timer to dry cycle, remove wires from one of the two terminals and ohm out the two terminals on the timer. It should be 0 or close to it.



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 Posted: Tue Oct 30th, 2007 02:23 pm
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homescool
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 I IMPLORE YOU OH GREAT MASTERS OF APPLIANCE REPAIR - ESPECIALLY DRYERS!!
If you read my previous emails you can see my problems with this now "possesed" dryer.
We have performed all suggestions and are stumped.
We checked
 our wall outlet to  make sure we have 220V.  It has  120 on both sides or the correct voltage  or is live at both  side or whatever  but it is o.k. We moved on to the terminal block(where the cord goes into the dryer).  The cord was fine and we have power coming and going correctly to all wires and connections to and from the terminal block, no loose or burnt wires or cord. So on to  checking continuity of the heating element with the wires unplugged.  Yep, you guessed it - Continunity! :shock:
Next is was suggest to check if the heating element was shorted to ground - hubby checked that and it is NOT shorted to ground.  We checked the heating element really good and it looks intact and not burned - actually looks pretty new.
So, voltages all work out - btw checked the breaker as well.

NOW WHAT DO WE DO:? - I am tempted to try the last resort and throw it out in our field and blow it to that great dryer graveyard in the sky.:X  So far, in a 7 yr okld dryer he have over $250 invested in parts and $1,000,000,000.... in sweat, frustration, swearing and tears!:X

The VENTS are VERY, VERY CLEAN :D- trust me on this - and I mean ALL vents everywhere, no lint on wires, nothing like that.  We have checked and rechecked all wires to make sure they are all plugged in , show continunity etc. and all says o.k.

What is left oh Great Ones?? :?:?:?:?:?:?

PLEASE HELP - I AM GOING INSANE!!!:yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes:

Now - I have not a clue what this would have to do with anything but I will add any info I feel might be relevant. (This first part is background to lead up to the -does this have anythign to do with our problem part - the placing the loose part of the heating coil back in its insuator.)
The dryer needed a rear bearing kit(squealing etc.) We replaced that no problem and it ran smooth as a baby's bottom.(This is the 2nd kit in 7 yrs - first one replaced about 6-8 months ago)
At the same time the dryer had been not drying properly, first thing we did before even replacing the bearing kit was recheck all vents from dryer to outside, inside dryer to outside, lint trap and beyond - every nook and cranny - they were not blocked some lint but not much - not kidding - less than a cup from ALL places including the lint trap where most of it was(just dried a load of towels).
SO, we came to your great site again(I have used your wonderous experts several times before.) and received several suggetions.
As the dryer was oveheating and getting very hot to the touch on the hood or top ront to back under the timer knob -about a 6" wide by 12" long area.  it was suggested we change the thermostat.
We did and then NO HEAT - The dryer still runs smooth but the heating element will not come on.
NOW, when we replaced the bearing kit we found one part of the heating element-it is the round curly coil type inserted into insulators all around a metal circle.
anyway - one had come loose from the insulator so hubby gently put it back like the others. - I ONLY mention this as this is the only thing that was done after bearing kit and just installed thermostat - done during this process is what I am saying. - Sorry , I don't explain things well.
O.K. - so with new bearing kt, new thermostat(the one at the top ) and loose heating element coil gently put back in its insulator we out back together and get NO HEAT!
So, back to this board and it was suggested we change the cycling thermostat(at the bottom) so we did, stillno heat.
Back to the board, and all the great suggestions about all the checkiing we just did.

WHAT have we missed?  What have we done?  HELP I BEG OF YOU!

Distressed Homescool



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 Posted: Tue Oct 30th, 2007 02:37 pm
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Pegi
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Need to use your volt stick/meter to see where you are getting voltage into but not back out ...this will point to the no heat problem, use the wiring diagram to trace the heat circuit.....you said you had heat before replacing a thermostat but not after, have you tested this thermostat?   And take a better look at that heater coil where it came loose from the ceramic...check your motor switch 1-2, could be a bad wire there or a defective centrifical switch inside of the motor not letting power to the heat circuit after the motor gets up to speed....
WIRING DIAGRAM
PARTS MANUAL



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 Posted: Tue Oct 30th, 2007 02:41 pm
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Pegi
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Check that fabric selector switch, could it be on air fluf???  Not feeding voltage to the heater in a heat setting? You have two thermostats, check both...you need to trace back from the heating element to see where the voltage has been lost...and a wire on the motor switch 1 or 2 could have been knocked loose?



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 Posted: Tue Oct 30th, 2007 02:43 pm
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Pegi
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"It has  120 on both sides or the correct voltage"
Ah, but does it have 240 across both, if not no heat...



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 Posted: Tue Oct 30th, 2007 03:39 pm
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homescool
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Thank you for the fast reponse! 
My dryer does not have a fluff setting.  It has 2 knobs.  One is the load setting - it has 3 choices - Regular-High Heat, Medium Heat-Perm Press and Knits/Delicates - low heat
The timer control knob has 2 choices - Timed dry from 100 minutes to 10 with a cool  down of ov about 10 minutes then its finished.
Automacic setting has  More dry to less dry to cool down.  I don't see a fluff and I have never been able to put clothes in without some form of heat coming on.  Are one of those a fluff setting?

We have checked the hearter coil very closely - it appears fine.  My husband tested it and got continuity with wires on, one wire off and both wires off.  He tested it to make sure it was not shorted to ground.

I am going to respond directly to your other great posts so we don't get our wires crossed ;)

Homescool

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 Posted: Tue Oct 30th, 2007 04:08 pm
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homescool
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I wish I had you here Pegi!:)
First of all let me say my husband has an ohm meter thing that has more dials, needles, colors etc than a NASA spaceship.  He admits he is not totally sure what reading he is supposed to be getting .  He sets it to what he is pretty sure is the correct setting and it pegs the scale on the continunity.  We have checked the new thermostat, the hi limit or fuse switch, the cycling thermostat(which we replaced as well just to waste more $$!), the heating element, the wall socket, the thermal block - all wires coming in and going out.
We have checked the heating element closely.  If we are getting contiunity with the wires unhooked or with one unhooked could it still be bad?
Let me tell you I am going out right now to get a new and less complicated ohm meter - his is over 5 years old and was expensive but he admits he is never really sure if he is using it right.
He is not an electrician but he plays one at home.  Actually he has quite a bit of experience with wiring etc. - He used to built houses before his farming habit caused him to go to work full time for the postal service.
We buitl this house 7 years ago and a the licensed electrician who was supposed to wire it  told Keith - I've seen your work- you are the most picky, perfectionist I know - you would do a better job, I will come in behind you ever step of the way and see if I find anything wrong. - They only thing he said was - You drywaller is going to hate you - I have never seen so many outlets in each room and you went way overboard on the GFI switches and everthing you did - This is one of the best jobs I seen.
Just to give you a little background so you won't think hubby is a total idiot(He drinks beer - how stupid could he be?):D
Anyway - he readily admits he is not comfortable using this ohm meter to the extent he is not sure what reading he is supposed to be getting.
When I just talked to him and mentioned the 120 on each but 220 across both he said you know I didn't think about that.
Here is my dumb question of the day.
How do you check 220 across both?
If you could tell me what you would do at this point(I am ready to blow the darned thing up!)
and how you would go about it I would greatly appreciate it! 
I will send you a GALLON of my mother-in-laws sweet tea - hers is THE BEST!! if you can exorcise the demon from my dryer.
Thank you SO MUCH for ALL of your help.  We REALLY appreciate it!

Homescool

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 Posted: Tue Oct 30th, 2007 04:48 pm
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Pegi
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You ohm meter is most likely fine, tell hubby to go to lowes or home depot or radio shack or harbor freight and buy a volt meter/tester, this will tell you exactly what the voltage is, this will be much more presice and exact and safer than trying to figure out voltages on that multi meter..do not get just one that tells you if voltage is present, get one that shows the voltage.....they do not cost much and will come in handy down the road....get one that you can stick the probes into the wall out let or reach onto terminals, we need to see what the voltage is to that dryer at this point, ....he can check it either at the wall outlet or right on the cord where it attaches to the terminal block on the dryer with the cord plugged in..if that is ok then he can do voltage checks to see where it has been lost like out of the timer, that heat selector switch, the motor switch 1-2. print out that wiring diagram, that heat circiut is very simple in your model..



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 Posted: Tue Oct 30th, 2007 11:56 pm
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i agree you need a tester when working on electric , but i did not read where anyone soggested to check or replace the hi limit  located next to the element ? drive dogs on a GE dryer :yikes:



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 Posted: Wed Oct 31st, 2007 12:04 am
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appl.tech.29501
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Frigidaire dryer and whirlpool washer ;)



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 Posted: Wed Oct 31st, 2007 01:09 am
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jahjahbinks



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appl.tech.29501 wrote: Frigidaire dryer and whirlpool washer ;)
2 many cuts on my hands from putting those support rods back in place on the GE`s A.K.A. BOUNCING BETTY



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 Posted: Wed Oct 31st, 2007 01:45 am
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jambatt
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homescool:hiking:go to http://www.applianceaid.com. Click on FAQ. Scroll down to bottom of page. How to use ohm meter and how to use voltmeter.:bananadance:



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