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DUET GHW9200LQ - Problem with Rinse Cycle

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Posted: Thu Jan 10th, 2008 05:36 am

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JSGatSE
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Keinokuorma wrote: RegUS_PatOff wrote:or the hall sensors got damaged in shipping from the U.S.

Were the (4) "shipping bolts" re-installed before moving to Italy ?

Good point, although the hall sensor(s?) would just rock along with the motor... don't know a case so far where those got damaged during shipping. The shocks or springs may have taken damage, though... BTW, were the shipping bolts REMOVED AFTER MOVING to Italy?

No, I don't believe anything was inserted or taken out by my movers before or after the move....how would I be able to tell if the shipping bolts are still in there? Sorry if that's a dumb question....

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Posted: Thu Jan 10th, 2008 05:37 am

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JSGatSE
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: What's it cost to ship a washer from the U.S. to Italy ? :groucho:

Well, I had a 40 foot container come over, and there was space for the washer - which was fairly new. Instead of selling it at a garage sale for $150/100 Euros, I decided to bring it with us.....

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Posted: Thu Jan 10th, 2008 05:39 am

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JSGatSE
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jambatt wrote: Ran the diagnostics test this weekend on page 5 that you sent me in the PDF. All went fine, I believe. the only item I should mention is that C:05 (testing the "heater") went on for 10 minutes, and I finally just manually forwarded it to the next diagnostic test by hitting the Prewash option 2x.
Gentlemen, based on the above is it possible that we are dealing with a bad temp sensor or heater problem? Not that familiar with the Duet,but in some dishwashers(Friggy) the timer will stall out if there is a problem with the water temp. No mention was made by JSGatSE(or did I miss it) of ohming out the temp sensor or heater element for continuity. Values are given in tech sheet for sensor.

Jambatt, if you tell me how to "ohm out" the temp sensor (sounds like fun) - I'll do that and get back to you.

Thanks again to everyone for all your help....

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Posted: Thu Jan 10th, 2008 03:16 pm

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jambatt
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See if this link helps. Disconnect power, then remove at least one wire before taking readings. You will be taking resistance readings on the sensor per tech sheet. For the heater, repeat procedure. If reading is infinite you have an open element. Same holds true for sensor. If it reads infinite then it's bad.

http://fixitnow.com/2004/12/appliance-repair-revelation-making.htm

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Posted: Thu Jan 10th, 2008 03:40 pm

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jambatt
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Here's your breakdown. In the Select Diagram portion go to #7 Tub and Basket to locate heater and temp switch.

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=265435

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Posted: Thu Jan 10th, 2008 06:58 pm

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JSGatSE wrote: No, I don't believe anything was inserted or taken out by my movers before or after the move....how would I be able to tell if the shipping bolts are still in there? Sorry if that's a dumb question....

there should be (4) bolts (#12 in the diagram) used for shipping located in the rectangular holes in the rear (#10 in the diagram) of the washer.

Whirlpool recommends not re-using the original shipping bolts.

GHW9200LQ diagram

Last edited on Thu Jan 10th, 2008 06:59 pm by RegUS_PatOff

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Posted: Sun Jan 13th, 2008 09:01 pm

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Keinokuorma
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Any progress at all, in any direction?

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Posted: Mon Jan 14th, 2008 04:00 am

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JSGatSE
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Keinokuorma wrote: Any progress at all, in any direction?

Sorry, I'm out of the country on a business trip for the next 10 days - I'll attack it when I get back.

Thanks,

-Scott

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Posted: Fri Feb 8th, 2008 08:14 pm

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Keinokuorma
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Since it's now almost a month since the last update, I'd like to know what solution has been reached, if any.

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Posted: Tue Feb 19th, 2008 05:09 pm

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JSGatSE
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Hello All, I have worked on the washer, but to no avail. I'm going to try everything again this upcoming weekend. Sorry for the lack of updates - I'm just frustrated!

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Posted: Wed Feb 20th, 2008 12:32 am

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appliances can make ya a little mental sometimes :yikes:

....dont let that baby whup ya...we have faith in ya

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Posted: Thu Feb 28th, 2008 12:57 pm

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JSGatSE
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trublshootr wrote: Ok Here goes. What you are attempting to do is provide a ground to the washer through the transformer. An ohm meter or continuity tester would be a GREAT help here to determine if you have a ground or not. The informaiton you provided fo the transformer says it has a Shuko euopean plug so I'm assuming you are plugging it in to a Shuko outlet. Checkout http://users.pandora.be/worldstandards/electricity.htm#plugs_l
to verify what plug / outlet you are using.

I recommend using a larger transformer, 1000 watts sounds to small for a washing machine. 1500 better, 3000 best. To determine the best one, multiply the amps on the washer nameplate by the voltage (115) to get the MINIMUM watts and I would add 15 - 20%.

If you are using the round Shuko type plug, the outside contacts on the top and bottom of the plug are ground. If you are using the flat "Italian" plug and outlet with 3 pins, the center pin is ground. On the transformer ouput socket (American) the round pin / hole is ground (green wire) and the wide blade is neutral (white wire).

First thing is to take your continuity tester and see if the ground on the transformer input plug is tied to the ground on the output socket. Put one probe on the outside contact or center pin of the transformer PLUG, and the other probe in the round hole of the American socket. Ohm meter should read 0 or the continuity tester should light / beep if it is. The next step is to see if the neutral wire is tied to ground on the OUTPUT of the transformer. Continuity tester from wide slot to round hole. You'll have to angle the probe of the tester to hit the side of the hole / slot to make contact.

If the input ground (plug) is connected to output (socket) ground and wide blade on output is tied to ground - then I don't know what the problem is other than maybe there is no ground to the outlet - which would require a local electrician to checkout.

If the input ground and output ground are not connected then you will have to try to get into the connnections on the transformer and add a wire between the input and ooutput ground wires / terminals. Usually the ground wire is green (US) or yellow with a green stripe (Europe). If the wide blade is not connected to the round pin on the output, see if you can add a wire between the white and green wire inside the washer where the cord is attached. Just remember to remove that when / if you bring it back to the States. Hopefully that will take care of your problem. Good luck.

OK guys, got out there today and tried to figure it out. As I mentioned, I'm no electrical engineer, so forgive me for my lack of knowledge. The bottom line is that a lot of people had suggested that perhaps a lack of ground was causing the problem. Well, I went into my tool room and found this device that you plug in and it has a bunch of lights and tells you what's up....I'm sure it has a fancy name

Anyway, as you can see in the attached picture, I plugged my 3000 Watt transformer into my 220V native power source and then the "plug device thing" into the tranformer. I got 2 lights, which according to the key means "ground is correct".

Dang.....

What else can I try?????

Attachment: 100_0660.jpg (Downloaded 36 times)

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Posted: Thu Feb 28th, 2008 01:03 pm

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JSGatSE
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Although I'm sure you all know what I was describing in my problem detail, I've taken a picture of the selector (and added the big red roman numerals). This is the piece that just cycles 1 - 2 -3 - 4 -3 - 2 - 1 - 2 -3 ..... etc when the machine fails to enter the rinse cycle.

Thanks,

-Scott

Attachment: 100_0655.jpg (Downloaded 36 times)

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Posted: Thu Feb 28th, 2008 01:08 pm

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JSGatSE
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: JSGatSE wrote: No, I don't believe anything was inserted or taken out by my movers before or after the move....how would I be able to tell if the shipping bolts are still in there? Sorry if that's a dumb question....

there should be (4) bolts (#12 in the diagram) used for shipping located in the rectangular holes in the rear (#10 in the diagram) of the washer.

Whirlpool recommends not re-using the original shipping bolts.

GHW9200LQ diagram

Hi, this diagram links to the Sears homepage - can you send me another diagram/link and I'll check this out as well?

Thanks.

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Posted: Thu Feb 28th, 2008 01:46 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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Sears has a new parts website and it's slow....

no error codes ?

Check the Diagnostic Tests starting on PDF page 52

GHW9200L Service Manual

Attachment: Page from Whirlpool_Duet_Washer_job_Aid.pdf (Downloaded 4 times)

Last edited on Thu Feb 28th, 2008 02:13 pm by RegUS_PatOff

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Posted: Thu Mar 6th, 2008 09:48 am

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JSGatSE
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: no error codes ?

Check the Diagnostic Tests starting on PDF page 52

GHW9200L Service Manual

Back in November, I ran the diagnostic tests and then posted the following:

Ran the diagnostics test this weekend on page 5 that you sent me in the PDF. All went fine, I believe. the only item I should mention is that C:05 (testing the "heater") went on for 10 minutes, and I finally just manually forwarded it to the next diagnostic test by hitting the Prewash option 2x.

Any other ideas?
Thanks,

-Scott

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Posted: Thu Mar 6th, 2008 02:12 pm

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jambatt
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Look badk to my last two posts.

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Posted: Thu Mar 6th, 2008 02:39 pm

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JSGatSE
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jambatt wrote: See if this link helps. Disconnect power, then remove at least one wire before taking readings. You will be taking resistance readings on the sensor per tech sheet. For the heater, repeat procedure. If reading is infinite you have an open element. Same holds true for sensor. If it reads infinite then it's bad.

http://fixitnow.com/2004/12/appliance-repair-revelation-making.htm

Hi, I'll be happy to do this. I'm a REAL novice, so if you could walk me thru exactly how to do this, i would be very grateful.

Thanks,

-Scott

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Posted: Fri Mar 7th, 2008 04:05 pm

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jambatt
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OK. Since you're a Novice lets start with the link that instructs you on how to make voltage and ohm readings. When you are comfortable that you can perform these correctly, remove the front lower panel and locate the heater coil and temp sensor(#25 and #26) in the parts breakdown. Disconnect power to machine. Remove one wire from heater and one from temp sensor. Take ohm reading and compare to values for temp sensor in the tech sheet. Check heater coil for continuity. Post back results.

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