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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > whirlpool chain of problems... |
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| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, BrntToast, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! |
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| whirlpool chain of problems... | Rating: 
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| Posted: Mon Apr 11th, 2005 09:07 pm |
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1st Post |
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ttut15 Grasshopper
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So, I have a Whirlpool Washer (# LSQ9010LW0). It was working fine, then after a slightly bumpy move up three flights of stairs to a new apartment, it was installed and worked perfectly. For about a month, then when the spin cycle would FINISH (not suring the spin) there would be loud banging, like the brake was not working. We stopped using it for a month and with busy schedules didn't get a repairperson over, but one day on a whim we tried it again and no banging. It's worked perfectly for about 2-3 months, then a week ago, this time DURING the spin, there was this wooshing sound that was not there before, and the faint smell of warm/hot plastic, then the spin cycle just stopped working, but agitation is working fine. The basket spins freely when you manually turn it, and i've opened it up and checked the switch on the door. here are some observations: - the whole basket seems to be sitting low, but it still self-centers. like, the gap between the bottom of the agitator and the innerbasket has gotten greater. - i took off the agitator to look at the drive block, and it was coated with metal shavings and a lubricant. i'm not sure if the metal shavings are normal? the plastic spacer thing as well as the metal clip that are on top of the spanner nut are in fine condition. I can take out the drive coupling or the drive block to look for damage, but i don't know what to look for. is there anything else that could be causing this, besides those two pieces? Is this two different problems, or the same one? Thanks! Last edited on Mon Apr 11th, 2005 09:08 pm by ttut15 |
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| Posted: Mon Apr 11th, 2005 09:54 pm |
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2nd Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology 
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What is going on with these Whirlpool direct drive washers lately? Must be the end of the design life-cycle for certain components, such as the drive block. See if those notches are worn. Metal filings under the agitator are usually a sign of a deteriorating drive block.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Mon Apr 11th, 2005 10:12 pm |
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3rd Post |
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ttut15 Grasshopper
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in the pic they look like recessed notches, but on mine it seems there are two raised notches on the piece. am i looking at the correct piece? the raised notches seem rounded. could this wear be responsible for the basket not stopping after the spin as well as now not spinning? Thanks so much for your help! i put in a poor pic, i'm not sure if you can see what i'm talking about or not. or so i have to take off that special nut to see the piece totally? Attachment: 000_0254[1].jpg (Downloaded 322 times)
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| Posted: Mon Apr 11th, 2005 10:13 pm |
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4th Post |
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ttut15 Grasshopper
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one more pic Attachment: wash.jpg (Downloaded 274 times) Last edited on Mon Apr 11th, 2005 10:18 pm by ttut15 |
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| Posted: Tue Apr 12th, 2005 12:04 am |
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5th Post |
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Mad Mac Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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Stripped out drive block, Whirlpool part number 389140. Visit our friends at RepairClinic.com - you'll also need the special wrench to get that nut off.
____________________ Mad Mac....Pray to God he's out there....somewhere. |
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| Posted: Tue Apr 12th, 2005 12:49 am |
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6th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Drive block and spanner wrench. EDIT: Corrected parts links. Last edited on Tue Sep 8th, 2009 04:10 pm by RegUS_PatOff ____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Tue Apr 12th, 2005 11:19 am |
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7th Post |
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Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Another TIP: or you will be doing this job again in less than a year....... Those two tabs that stick up and are bent in towards the agitator shaft. They need to be bent back out to the correct position or a new drive block is just going to strip out in no time at all. Take a small square ended chisel and gently tap it with a hammer in between the agitator shaft and the tab at all four cornes of the tabs. Use the new drive block turned upside down to gauge when you have them back out to the correct position, if you go to far you won't get the new drive block to seat down correctly. This is what I do anytime I replace a drive block on these newer Whirlpools that seem to be having this problem. I haven't had to go back on one yet and didn't have to charge the customer for a new spin tube/brake assembly replacement either. William Burk (Willie) Willie's Budget Appliance Repair Eureka, CA 95501
____________________ William Burk (Willie) Willie's Budget Appliance Repair Eureka, CA 95501 |
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| Posted: Thu Apr 14th, 2005 10:06 pm |
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8th Post |
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ttut15 Grasshopper
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ok, so i got those parts and two things the drive block currently in there does not look worn ( i had to remove the inner basket to see) and it looks different than the part i ordered. i checked the model number with the folks at repair clinic. my drive block does not have those two notches on the inside. ??? it was the only whirlpool drive block i found. also, i've removed the inner basket (the pictures i sent were before i did that and you could only see the top of the drive block. but, i can't get the damn drive block out, i've tapped up on it like crazy, still it won't budge. any suggestions? PS: while i'm at it should i clean out all that sludge in the bottom of the outer basket? thanks folks for all your help. i'm putting a pic of my washers innards here and in a reply to this post. tripp Attachment: 000_0257[1].jpg (Downloaded 241 times)
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| Posted: Thu Apr 14th, 2005 10:07 pm |
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9th Post |
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ttut15 Grasshopper
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pic Attachment: 000_0256[1].jpg (Downloaded 251 times)
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| Posted: Thu Apr 14th, 2005 10:13 pm |
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10th Post |
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ttut15 Grasshopper
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ha! nevermind! the reason it didn't look the same is because it's all messed up! thanks for all your help! i think i have it figured out.
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| Posted: Fri Apr 15th, 2005 03:49 am |
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11th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Hey, let us know how it turns out!
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Fri Apr 15th, 2005 10:31 am |
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12th Post |
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Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Diffenitely clean that sludge out while you're in there, why wouldn't you? Also check the outer plastic tub and make sure none of the gouges in the bottom go all the way through, I can see signs of where you spin basket rubbed pretty heavily on the bottom of the outer tub. William Burk (Willie) Willie's Budget Appliance Repair Eureka, CA 95501
____________________ William Burk (Willie) Willie's Budget Appliance Repair Eureka, CA 95501 |
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| Posted: Sat May 21st, 2005 12:16 pm |
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13th Post |
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kevinhelm Grasshopper
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I managed to get the sud nut off of the top of the basket cone but I can't get the basket to lift out so that I can check the drive block. How do I get the basket out? Kevin
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| Posted: Sat May 21st, 2005 01:21 pm |
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14th Post |
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Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Grab hold of the spin basket by the edge and give it a good push down and back up, it should come loose with just a couple bounces. Also, you don't need to remove the tub to see if the drive block is bad. Look at the picture posted above and if yours looks like the picture then the drive block isn't your problem. Notice the two tabs that are level with the top of the drive block, that is what your looking for. If your drive block is bad the spin tube, which has the two tabs sticking up , will be sticking about a 1/2" to 1" above the top of the drive block. Last edited on Sat May 21st, 2005 01:24 pm by Budget Appliance Repair ____________________ William Burk (Willie) Willie's Budget Appliance Repair Eureka, CA 95501 |
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| Posted: Sat May 21st, 2005 08:28 pm |
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15th Post |
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kevinhelm Grasshopper
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Thank you, I will give it a try when I get home from work this afternoon. The washer is a 3 year old Kenmore Elite large capacity, direct drive. Everything seems to be fine except for the fact that it will not spin. When I removed the nut from the top of the basket I did not see any shavings, The coupling is okay, I believe the lid switch is okay. I used a jumper wire in place of the switch to double check it. Any ideas? I read that it could be the brake cam, clutch lining, or transmission. Thank you. I feel your site is great. I was wondering what kind of delivery time you have on your parts to the Houston, Texas area?
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| Posted: Sun May 11th, 2008 10:24 am |
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16th Post |
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Phoenix_Rising Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man wrote: Drive block and spanner wrench. Samurai - Your http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=389140 link is bad in this [url=http://applianceguru.com/reply.php?topic_id=141&post_id=736"e=1 ]Post[/url]. Here's the right one: http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=389140 Also, your "Help" page (the button at the top right of this page) says to use the above format for links, but as you can see, it doesn't seem to work! Last edited on Mon May 12th, 2008 10:10 am by |
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| Posted: Sun May 11th, 2008 10:33 am |
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17th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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Phoenix_Rising wrote: Here's the right one: dont use " " on the URL, you can use them on the "Drive Block" if wanted.
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Mon May 12th, 2008 07:58 am |
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18th Post |
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Phoenix_Rising Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Thanks RegUS_PatOff, but as you can see, that didn't do it either. I've never seen a forum where part of your display code is implimented right in the editor, and parts are not. So once you've done something, you can't access the raw code again to make any adjustments you might want to make, because it's already been converted into the resulting effect right there in the editor display. I thought that's what the Preview button was used for.
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| Posted: Mon May 12th, 2008 10:12 am |
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19th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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I've corrected the part link to the drive block in my previous post. Not sure what you're doing when you make the links. So far, you're the only person I'm seeing having this problem.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Mon May 12th, 2008 02:13 pm |
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20th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Here's the right one: musical chairs ? they just changed it again now it's a another different part number RepairClinic keeps changing their part numbers ? NOW it's http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1021707 Last edited on Mon May 12th, 2008 02:16 pm by RegUS_PatOff ____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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