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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > GE Prodigy Profile -- WPSE4270A0WW Spin issue

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GE Prodigy Profile -- WPSE4270A0WW Spin issue  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Tue Sep 4th, 2007 05:17 pm
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Padawan
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Oh Great Ones,

I am having an issue with my GE Prodigy washing machine when it spins. About a month ago, when the washing machine would go into spin mode it would shake violently and sound like a freight train was going through my basemant. After inspecting the insides, I found that one of the tub dampening straps had broken in half and the another broken off of the tub. I purchased 4 new ones, a new cover tub, and a new dampening ring all from Repair Clinic. It is all back together and still shakes violently like it is out of balance. I take the front off and watch it "wobble". If I readjust the load to be completely even then it is OK. Should I also replace the Suspension rods (Rod)?

I graciously await your reply.

Last edited on Tue Sep 11th, 2007 11:30 am by Padawan

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 Posted: Tue Sep 11th, 2007 11:21 am
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Padawan
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O Great Ones,

Your humble Padawan desperately seeks an answer. The washer is going so out of balance now that one of the suspention rods has "popped" off again. Please help me save face with my wife after telling her it was fixed the first time. Your humble student, Padawan

Last edited on Tue Sep 11th, 2007 11:21 am by Padawan

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 Posted: Wed Sep 12th, 2007 10:38 pm
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hvacdrd
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Is the inner tub loose? How does it run & sound when there is no clothes in it? Is the motor stopping and starting in the spin cycle?



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 Posted: Thu Sep 13th, 2007 11:33 pm
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delawaredrew
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This is a top loader right? I am assuming you removed the shipping rod, and that it has operated normally?
Pop the front off, a paint scraper will release the clips that hold it on.  Slide it in from each corner until it hits the side of the clip, about 4 inches in.  The use the scraper to lift the clip from the front.  Usually just butting th scraper against the front of the clip and giving the end of the scraper a whack with the palme of your hand will relearse it.  If you have any doubts, look in the gap between front and top, and you can probably see the clips.
Once it is off, make sure the whole tub assembly moves freely, often they will get hung up on a shippin bracket and be stuck off level.

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 Posted: Fri Sep 14th, 2007 09:57 pm
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Padawan
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I have had this washer for about 6 years and it worked fine. The motor seems to work normal, turning on and off at the right times without any out of the ordinary noises. It does not stop and start during the spin cycle. If I grab the inner tub and lift up there seems to be about a 1/32 of an inch of movement from the metal inner tub base hub (hub). There is also approx. a 1/16 inch play side to side from the inner tub base(hub).  I proceeded to pop off the agitator so I could separate the outer tub from the inner tube. I found the main nut to be in a slightly corroded state but nothing that would affect its integrity. I haven't tried to take off the nut yet due to there being a lot of rust on the main shaft and wanted to first spray it with an anticorrosion spray. Any ideas of what else I should look for? Your humble learner, Padawan

Last edited on Fri Sep 14th, 2007 10:01 pm by Padawan

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 Posted: Fri Sep 14th, 2007 10:47 pm
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Jedi Appliance Guy



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I have seen corroded hubs cause what you are describing.

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 Posted: Sat Sep 15th, 2007 12:58 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Welcome back, Jedi-- good to see you up about about after getting half your nose re-spliced.  Hope you got some good pain meds! :puffin:



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 Posted: Sat Sep 15th, 2007 07:04 pm
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delawaredrew
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Weird that redistributing the load stops the shaking.  It is doubtful that your could truly balance it by hand.  Leads me to think that you are rebalancing it enough to stop the worst of the shaking, At the speeds it spins at you would have to be a master at relocating the wet clothes if you are getting it even close to balanced by hand... but if it stops the shake.....
Jedi's hub theory may be on the mark, but there are alot of reasons a washer spins out of balance badly.

I would look for one of two issues, both of which you are already on to.  From your descriprion I'd look at #1 first.  You may have trouble getting a wrench in there to check it, we have tools designed for this usage, but if you have a short large adjustable wrench or a monster socket you can get on it.

First is the main nut tight?  And I mean tight.  It is the big one under the air bell (the plastic cone under the agitator).  If loose it will cause shaking at first, but also eventually wear the threads enough to render that trans useless.  If the nut is really loose you will be able to wobble the inner basket around the trans shaft.  But by then, usually you have lost spin.  Another effect is that it would fail to spin up to speed.
Second, The susp rods.  Unfortunately you can't really see the rear pair well.  From the top, if you push on the corners of the basket do the rods seem to be providing some degree of dampening?  You should be able to bottom the rods out, 'cause their purpose is dampening movement as well as actually suspending the weight of the basket.  If one corner is stuck, blown out, or weak you may be able to tell just by moving the basket at each corner.  If you haven't removed the front yet, doing so will greatly help in seeing what is going on.  FIlling it with water will also help you determine if one or more rods is shot.

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 Posted: Wed Sep 19th, 2007 11:38 pm
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jambatt
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You said that suspension rod had "popped" off again. Had similar situation and found that as tub started to spin suspension rod in back of tub would jump out of the bracket as tub gained speed and began to shake as all tubs do. Shaking became violent as soon as suspension rod slipped out. Removed rod and found bad spring. Replaced with new rod assembly and tub settled back down to normal shake when spinning.



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 Posted: Thu Sep 20th, 2007 01:46 pm
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delawaredrew
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Good eyes Jambatt... I missed that info entirely.
Padawan - is the rod coming off at the bottom of the tub?  If the bushing that clips into the frame off the tub is worn and allowing a rod to come loose that would expalin a spin issue. With the from off you can see both front rod/dampers.  The rear are not easy to see but you can feel them or use a mirror to see.  Access to them requires more work but a rod off the tub does explain the shake.
 If you pull the top off you can see the rear better.  ALso I thnk this model uses two different rods, one pair for the front and the other for the rear.  They can fail. I have seen sprung rods, bent rods, and just plain worn out rods.  If you are exploring check the upper rod sockets also, to see if they show damage.

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 Posted: Mon Sep 24th, 2007 08:52 pm
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Padawan
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OK....here is the deal. I took a wire brush and cleaned up the nut and the shaft. The integrity comment was a bit hasty. The nut is quite pitted and has started to come apart on one of the corners. It seems to be "fused" to the shaft. Now I have had this situation when working on cars but the solution there is brut force and break it apart with a chisel. Before I do anything, I wanted to consult the mind of someone who knows what they are actually doing on this washer. Thank You...your humble learner, Padawan.

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 Posted: Mon Sep 24th, 2007 09:15 pm
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Jedi Appliance Guy



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From time to time I run into a really stubborn hub nut.  If the Force is with you and your chisel is sharp you can crack the nut off with two hits.  Or sometimes it can take many hits.

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 Posted: Mon Sep 24th, 2007 09:37 pm
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Padawan
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This is why I am the learner and you are the Jedi. These pictures give me hope. Just one last question before trying. Did you strick the nut straight down (perpendicular) or did you hit it from the side (on the horizontal plain)?

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 Posted: Mon Sep 24th, 2007 11:06 pm
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Jedi Appliance Guy



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Vertical.

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 Posted: Tue Sep 25th, 2007 09:33 pm
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Padawan
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Again....I am the learner, you are the Jedi. I was able to break the nut apart and separate everything. Those pics were perfect. They did the trick. Now what I found was that the hub was loose from the inner tub all the way around. The screws were all backed out about 1/16th of an inch. The holes in the hub are now oval due to this condition. I would imagine that the hub is supposed to be secure to the inner tub. Is this correct? If so I will be purchasing a new hub, hub screws, and a new nut. Is there anything else? Again, I am reminded of your superior appliance intellect. Humbly, Padawan.

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 Posted: Tue Sep 25th, 2007 11:43 pm
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Jedi Appliance Guy



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   I would install the new and improved WH49X10042 air bell coupling as this is the root cause of transmission failure. You'll also need the correct spanner wrench to install the new hub nut.  I don't know the part number (mine wore off many moons ago) but I'm sure one of my esteemed colleagues here in the forum could provide it for you.  May the Force continue to be with you.

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 Posted: Wed Sep 26th, 2007 12:21 am
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hvacdrd
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Here is a wrench specific to the GE washer and another multibrand wrench 



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 Posted: Wed Sep 26th, 2007 03:13 am
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Padawan
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Once again I am struck with Awe. Am I correct in thinking that the hub should be secured to the inner tub and not shift back and forth? Also, would you happen to know the part number of the Torx screws that secure the hub to the tub? I would like to replace them since they have been beat on from the shifting hub. Thanks.

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 Posted: Wed Sep 26th, 2007 10:56 am
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jambatt
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  Based on model # given part# WH02X10001.



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 Posted: Wed Sep 26th, 2007 11:36 am
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kingsx
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After seeing the slideshow,
I can't help thinking....
that's a lot of work
to fix a toy washer.

 You got lucky on the nut cracking.
 nice work.
I would make VERY sure the transmission is not leaking oil or water at all,
 or noisy before investing time and money for tools and parts,
in this sort of repair
.

Seeing that the whirlpool direct drive is so many thousand of times more well engineered.
 

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