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Kitchenaid Model # KERC506HWH2  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Fri Aug 3rd, 2007 02:15 pm
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acillatem
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Budget Appliance Repair wrote: I'm pretty sure you can purchase fuses that have the pigtails on them, (there just not something your common RadioShack is going to carry), you would have to so some searching on the internet or ask at a higher-end electronics repair shop.

If you could find one then you could solder it back into the original wiring harness, (using a heatsink on the lead so as not to overheat and melt/blow the fuse), and put heatshrink tube over it before finishing soldering both leads.

The other thing you might be able to do is use the fuse holder you have pull both contact ends out of the holder with a couple inches of wire, drill out the ends of the fuse holder tube so that the larger gauge range wire will go thru, strip about 1/2" insulation off end each wireharness end that goes to fuse, cut the wires that are on the fuse holder leads to about 1/2" and remove all the insulation.

Slide one half of fuse holder over large gauge range wire then weave the 1/2" of bare wire on the fuse holder lead into the 1/2" of bare stripped wire on the harness and do a nice clean solder job. Then do the same with the other side of the fuse holder, (the cap side without the spring looks like it would be to short to cover the 1/4" to 1/2" splice area and would need some heat shrink covering over the splice).

If you do a good job of this you shouldn't have anything to worry about as far as it being able to carry the load and it will be an easy replacement if the fuse blows again.

I tried to find the fuses with pigtail on them, but didn't find that exact one.....they are usually smaller. I'll do some more searching. You kind of lost me on that last part with the fuse holder I got. I couldn't simply strip a little insulation off the fuse holder wire, and crimp it to the existing fuse holder........like they originally did with the caps with the pigtails? Thank you for your help!

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 Posted: Fri Aug 3rd, 2007 06:20 pm
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acillatem
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Good news(I think) ladies and gentlemen..............I do believe I have found them!

http://www.wallcoinc.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=324020%2EV&CartID=1

Sure looks right to me anyway. They show both types in the picture, but the 324 series is  a 20 amp, ceramic body, Axial leaded fuse. Anyone knows any reason why this shouldn't work.....I'm all ears!

I think I may have won the battle! Of course, ordering a few of these, connecting it to that wire, and turning the oven on and see it work will tell the tale, but I have an order in for a ripoff wiring harness( that will be cancelled), that Whirlpool doesn't even know when they will  have, so I really have nothing to lose. Worst case scenario is the fuse may blow again........at least I hope that's the worst scenario. Well, I should know fairly soon.

 


Last edited on Fri Aug 10th, 2007 05:37 am by acillatem

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 Posted: Sat Aug 4th, 2007 01:20 pm
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acillatem
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acillatem wrote: Budget Appliance Repair wrote: I'm pretty sure you can purchase fuses that have the pigtails on them, (there just not something your common RadioShack is going to carry), you would have to so some searching on the internet or ask at a higher-end electronics repair shop.

If you could find one then you could solder it back into the original wiring harness, (using a heatsink on the lead so as not to overheat and melt/blow the fuse), and put heatshrink tube over it before finishing soldering both leads.



Now that I'm pretty darn sure I found them.....what is a heatsink? Here is how it looks originally

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j161/metalliholic06/DSCF1292.jpg

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j161/metalliholic06/DSCF1283.jpg

 

Is that what those little "crimps" are called where the leads are connected to the main wire???? Thanks in advance!

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 Posted: Sun Aug 5th, 2007 11:25 am
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Budget Appliance Repair
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The rings on the original fuse are crimp connectors.

Soldering would make a better connection, the heat sink I mention is just used when soldering electrical components to keep the heat from the solder iron from damaging the component.

A soldering heatsink is just a small aluminum spring clamp that is clamped between the part being soldered and the solder joint, instead of the heat traveling up into and possibly damaging the component that you are installing the heatsink absorbs most of the heat traveling up the lead you are soldering.



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 Posted: Sun Aug 5th, 2007 03:26 pm
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acillatem
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Budget Appliance Repair wrote: The rings on the original fuse are crimp connectors.

Soldering would make a better connection, the heat sink I mention is just used when soldering electrical components to keep the heat from the solder iron from damaging the component.

A soldering heatsink is just a small aluminum spring clamp that is clamped between the part being soldered and the solder joint, instead of the heat traveling up into and possibly damaging the component that you are installing the heatsink absorbs most of the heat traveling up the lead you are soldering.

Thanks! Thank you to you and everyone else for the feedback and suggestions. Hopefully this is the end of this.

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 Posted: Wed Aug 8th, 2007 10:08 am
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Here is a picture of a solder heatsink clip. You should be able to find them at RadioShack or anyother electronic parts shop.

Attachment: SolderHeatsink0001.jpg (Downloaded 62 times)



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 Posted: Fri Aug 10th, 2007 05:31 am
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acillatem
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Not only did they not have one at Radio Shack, the guy didn't even know what I was talking about. There is no other electronics store in Ukiah, so I just used the visegrips, and it seemed to work fine. The soldering was easy, and the oven is working.Still don't know what caused the fuse to blow, but hopefully it was just a power surge, or maybe something went bad in the ERC board(that I replaced) and caused it to go. Right now it is working, and I didn't have to buy a 75-80 dollar wire harness to get a new fuse. With shipping, I got 4 of those fuses for 14 dollars and some change. This whole thing took quite a bit of time,but that's o.k. I got a new ERC board in the process, which ended up being a good thing, as the original had buttons that were always very hard to push, so they have obviously updated those, and I fixed the fuse. It was a challenge, but I finally got it, and much thanks again to everyone for their advice and feedback...........everyone's contribution helped out. Thanks again!

Last edited on Fri Aug 10th, 2007 05:41 am by acillatem

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 Posted: Wed Aug 22nd, 2007 02:53 pm
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Pegi
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Well, guess what I stumbled across in another forum???

Fuse Replacement.

Copied from the thread........

________________________________________
Whirlpool and Kitchen Aid range and 9781691 is the part number of the replacement fuse Whirlpool gave me.You cut the old fuse out and install the new fuse in its place.

________________________________________

I know on YKER series they had a kit with a new control and inline fuse to stop the fuse from popping...the software in control was changed to cycle the inner and outer broils at different times rather than at the same time.

______________________________________

So changing out your control may solve the problem that caused the fuse blow? Do not know since have no clue how your elements cycle on and off....



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 Posted: Wed Aug 22nd, 2007 03:06 pm
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Pegi
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http://www.partselect.com/PartSearchResult.aspx?PartNum=9781691

Repairclinic showed it to not be in stock, costs less but on backorder...



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 Posted: Thu Aug 23rd, 2007 04:35 am
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acillatem
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Pegi wrote: Well, guess what I stumbled across in another forum???

Fuse Replacement.

Copied from the thread........

________________________________________
Whirlpool and Kitchen Aid range and 9781691 is the part number of the replacement fuse Whirlpool gave me.You cut the old fuse out and install the new fuse in its place.

________________________________________

I know on YKER series they had a kit with a new control and inline fuse to stop the fuse from popping...the software in control was changed to cycle the inner and outer broils at different times rather than at the same time.

______________________________________

So changing out your control may solve the problem that caused the fuse blow? Do not know since have no clue how your elements cycle on and off....

Interesting find Pegi.........kind of strange that Whirlpool themselves said that wire with the fuse in it could not be purchased by itself. Could be that it is available for another range with a slightly different part #, but would work fine with mine, and simply has never been available as a part that would fit several model numbers. Sure looks the same as what came out of mine, except the wire was red. Bet it's the same guage. Someone told me mine isn't a thermal fuse though............so I don't know. So far the oven is still working fine. Hopefully whatever caused the fuse to blow was in the board, and that is now new, so hopefully that is the end of it.

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 Posted: Thu Aug 23rd, 2007 08:41 am
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Budget Appliance Repair
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acillatem wrote:
Someone told me mine isn't a thermal fuse though............so I don't know. So far the oven is still working fine. Hopefully whatever caused the fuse to blow was in the board, and that is now new, so hopefully that is the end of it.

Your's isn't a thermal fuse and I would bet that neither is the one Pegi linked you to. It appears to be just a regular fuse just like yours inside the heatshrink tube, (bet it's just mis-named as a thermal fuse).

Last edited on Thu Aug 23rd, 2007 08:44 am by Budget Appliance Repair



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 Posted: Thu Aug 23rd, 2007 01:03 pm
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Pegi
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That is correct, this fuse is to replace the ones in the wiring harness in the range, there was lots more in that thread, two threads actually and the link back to the thread with that fuse was posted in one thread where a tech was faced with the same problem you had,  having to order the whole harness, I just pasted that part to show it is out there, it is to replace all of those 20 amp fuses in these wiring harnesses....I posted this to help you in case you want to get the correct part and help others that have the same problem....magic of the internet and tech forums....;)



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 Posted: Fri Aug 24th, 2007 01:13 am
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acillatem
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Pegi wrote: That is correct, this fuse is to replace the ones in the wiring harness in the range, there was lots more in that thread, two threads actually and the link back to the thread with that fuse was posted in one thread where a tech was faced with the same problem you had,  having to order the whole harness, I just pasted that part to show it is out there, it is to replace all of those 20 amp fuses in these wiring harnesses....I posted this to help you in case you want to get the correct part and help others that have the same problem....magic of the internet and tech forums....;)
Yep, it is amazing how much a person can do themselves by "looking it up on the internet" lol. Well, now we have 3 solutions for the problem..........order the entire wiring harness(which will probably be on backorder), order this wire you posted the link to. or pay $1.69 like I did and just solder a new one on. I got 4 of those fuses for a littlw over 14 dollars after shipping:D

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 Posted: Fri Aug 24th, 2007 01:34 am
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Pegi
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To clarify, your repair is most likely fine, it is something I might have done on my own range....however those of us in the business do not dare take a chance like that while working on an appliance in the customers home for liability reasons, if something goes bad wrong the fault would go back to the manufacutrer of that part..not on what we did getting the unit up and running because the customer is demanding it done yesterday.  That information I found was located on a secure server that is for techs in the business only, no non-techs are granted membership, it is for us in the business to ask questions and receive help when we have trouble trying to find a solution.  One of our members had the same problem as you, that fuse was blown and he was told by me the only solution that I knew of was to replace the whole harness, he was suggesting he would do like you did on yours but was advised by several techs to not do this for liability reasons...he agreed and was going to order the harness..another tech remembered an earlier thread in the forum that addressed this fuse and had the part number and link to the photo of the fuse link replacement. This post is only to explain why we in the business have to follow certain ends to the solution so as not to cause legal problems for our businesses. The home owner can repair their own appliances any way they see fit, but we do like to see them repaired back to factory authorized specifications to cover our butt so to speak...I think it is great we all helped you to find a solution on getting your oven working, but the next person that asks this same question in this forum will have the option to order the factory authorized part to repair theirs, an option you did not have at the time...;)



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 Posted: Fri Aug 24th, 2007 02:09 am
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acillatem
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Pegi wrote: To clarify, your repair is most likely fine, it is something I might have done on my own range....however those of us in the business do not dare take a chance like that while working on an appliance in the customers home for liability reasons, if something goes bad wrong the fault would go back to the manufacutrer of that part..not on what we did getting the unit up and running because the customer is demanding it done yesterday.  That information I found was located on a secure server that is for techs in the business only, no non-techs are granted membership, it is for us in the business to ask questions and receive help when we have trouble trying to find a solution.  One of our members had the same problem as you, that fuse was blown and he was told by me the only solution that I knew of was to replace the whole harness, he was suggesting he would do like you did on yours but was advised by several techs to not do this for liability reasons...he agreed and was going to order the harness..another tech remembered an earlier thread in the forum that addressed this fuse and had the part number and link to the photo of the fuse link replacement. This post is only to explain why we in the business have to follow certain ends to the solution so as not to cause legal problems for our businesses. The home owner can repair their own appliances any way they see fit, but we do like to see them repaired back to factory authorized specifications to cover our butt so to speak...I think it is great we all helped you to find a solution on getting your oven working, but the next person that asks this same question in this forum will have the option to order the factory authorized part to repair theirs, an option you did not have at the time...;)O.k. gotcha;)........I didn't realize where you had got that info from.....sorry. And yes, my local repair place told me they would in no way, shape or form, do anything other than order the correct part, which would have been the entire harness, in this case. I had ordered it, knowing it was what I call a ripoff, but I'd be done with it. Then when I was told it was like 2 months out, I said I have to fix it another way, or find those exact fuses.....and I did. Thanks for clarifying the part about the liability. I know that, and totally understand. I would do the same thing If I had an appliance repair business. Please know I wsn't trying to give bad information:)

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 Posted: Fri Aug 24th, 2007 02:23 am
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Pegi
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Oh I do know you were in no way trying to give bad information, I just wish I had remembered that post about that replacement fuse for the wiring harness when you first posted your question, just look at the time and aggrivation it would have saved...because of you the next person will not have to go thru what you did and will be able to repair their harness much easier than what you had to figure out over several days time, so this is a good thing...:cool:



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 Posted: Fri Aug 24th, 2007 02:30 am
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acillatem
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Yep, I agree!

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Ran into the same problem with my KitchenAid Superba Range (Model # KERC507HBS3).  The hidden bake element burned through, frying the circuit's inline fuse camouflaged under the black shrink wrap. 

I hated the design of a one-time-only fuse solution and am in the process of ordering new high temp wire (wire insulation on the L2 ring terminal end was baked and ring itself had thermal oxidation), temp-rated connectors, and a temp-rated inline fuse holder.  I was going the Radio Shack parts route, but the obvious damage to the wire told me that a bit of thermal insurance may pay off down the line.

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