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F1 & F3 Kenmore Flashing/Beeping Codes

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Posted: Wed Mar 30th, 2005 08:25 pm

2^nd Post

Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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The F1 code means the ERC or the touchpad is bad. When you remove the sensor, the ERC thinks the sensor is bad and so gives an F3 code. You can check your oven sensor just to make sure. This page explains:

http://fixitnow.com/2003/02/appliance-tip-of-day-oven-temperature.htm

More information on this problem here.

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Posted: Sat Apr 2nd, 2005 03:47 pm

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jamieson
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Yesterday we had a power glitch and immediately after the power came back on my Kenmore stove (665.75822) was displaying an E1-F1 error code. Found the tech sheet which tells me that the EEPROM checksum is bad. Since the problem happened right after a power glitch I suspect it ain't the keypad. Board voltages look good.

The EEPROM is a separate chip on my control board. It's memory got corrupted on the power cycle and unfortunately there is to way to get it back. Alas, it looks like my only option is to shell out $175 for a new board.

Unless someone knows where I can get the programming file for the chip... it wouldn't be too difficult to pop it out and reprogram it. Of course, absolutely no help from Sears or Whirlpool on this issue...

Grrr!

Posted: Sun Apr 3rd, 2005 12:55 am

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The Seven
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jamieson wrote:
Yesterday we had a power glitch and immediately after the power came back on my Kenmore stove (665.75822) was displaying an E1-F1 error code. Found the tech sheet which tells me that the EEPROM checksum is bad. Since the problem happened right after a power glitch I suspect it ain't the keypad. Board voltages look good.

The EEPROM is a separate chip on my control board. It's memory got corrupted on the power cycle and unfortunately there is to way to get it back. Alas, it looks like my only option is to shell out $175 for a new board.

Unless someone knows where I can get the programming file for the chip... it wouldn't be too difficult to pop it out and reprogram it. Of course, absolutely no help from Sears or Whirlpool on this issue...

Grrr!

You may try to unplug the stove for 5 to 10 minutes and see whether it returns to normal or not.

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Posted: Sun Apr 3rd, 2005 10:32 am

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Moostafa
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The EEPROM is a separate chip on my control board. It's memory got corrupted on the power cycle and unfortunately there is to way to get it back. Alas, it looks like my only option is to shell out $175 for a new board.
Hello, my memorable friend. You have adeptly identified the problem with your Whirlpool-built range. The programming information you seek for this microchip is a closely guarded secret and is the object of intense industrial espionage. Even the appliance manufacturers themselves do not have this information because they purchase these boards as an pre-fabricated assembly from a third-party electronics manufacturer deep in the bowels of Singapore. They merely provide the operations specifications of the ERC and it is built to those parameters. While this information gets you no closer to your repair, I pray it gives you a larger perspective on the issue and thus helps to ameliorate your anguish and despair over your range.

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Moostafa

Posted: Mon Dec 26th, 2005 08:26 pm

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Dalep
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Hello,

I have the same problem.
I have to turn the breaker off. When I turn it on the oven and all the burners work. Just when I turn of the stove off it beeps and flashes F1.SO I turn the breaker off.
I have read some good things on your website.
I want to check the oven sensor, but I can't figure out how to remove it. Does it has to be unplugged from the back of the stove? I took the two screws out from the inside holding it in place.But it will not come out.My model is Kenmore 911.4652090. Can anybody please help me.

Posted: Wed Sep 13th, 2006 05:30 pm

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Skiter29

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also the best way to test the oven sensor is first at the board follow the two wires from the sensor to the board and test it there if ohms are correct there then the sensor is good if not then unplug the sensor in back of oven and test if they are correct after you unplug it then you have a bad connection there and use wire nuts to connect them if not bad sensor ohms are genrally around 1080 to 12000 but look at tech sheet

Posted: Tue Jun 26th, 2007 04:41 am

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Keinokuorma
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Although this is the second time the subject of this discussion has been changed, I will tell you that you might be looking at a bad keypad. Unplug keypad harness and see if it changes anything. Now this was my free advice. I sincerely recommend registering and starting a new thread.

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Posted: Tue Jun 26th, 2007 03:46 pm

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Pegi
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Closing this thread since non-reistered people are posting in this one, northdog, register in the forum then repost your question....Pegi

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