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Whirlpool quite wash top Loader With Coupler Circa 2000

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Posted: Fri Mar 16th, 2007 06:51 pm

41^st Post

hvacdrd
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1. How difficult is this to do (On a scale of 1-5 on the beer meter)? 3 - Smirnoff#72 - my "beer"

2. Are there instructions anywhere? Included with the neutral drain kit

3. Are there any special tools that I will need? Snap ring pliers & allen wrench if you consider those special

4. What kind of gear oil do I replace the old oil with? Regular 90 weight or motor oil or transmission fluid (red). If the gear oil comes out clean you can reuse it. I think it is 90W (at least it smells like it) but I would recommend using FSP oil just to be sure.

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Posted: Sun Mar 25th, 2007 12:01 am

42^nd Post

raycon57
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist

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Hi if you are still looking for help on your transmission. I have rebuilt thousands of these direct drive transmission. I can walk you through it.

Posted: Sun Mar 25th, 2007 06:37 am

43^rd Post

thezone
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Thanks for your reply. That is the best offer I have heard so far. I am still waiting on the parts to arrive. My main questions were posted before yours. You know the 1-4. Do you agree with those answers? My main concern is getting the thing apart and then realizing that I need parts/tools that I don't have. I live in a remote area and parts are not easily available. I need to use this washer at least 3-4 times a week. Is this as easy as they say? Can I just pull it apart and replace the parts and put it back together no problem? As much work as I have done so far, I am going to see this through to the end. It is kind of a pride thing at this point!!!

Posted: Sun Mar 25th, 2007 07:07 pm

44^th Post

raycon57
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Hi yes I agree with the 1-4 #1 piece of cake pulling the transmission out is harder than fixing the trans. So if you can do that you have it fixed already. #2 I’ll help you get it together #3 just like other tech said Snap ring pliers & Allen wrench and 5/16 nut driver or socket for the cover. #4 Go to your auto parts store and buy 90 weight gear case oil and you will be fine. I’ll be sending some pic’s. here is a pic of the snap ring plier you will need.

Attachment: HPIM1350.JPG (Downloaded 152 times)

Posted: Tue Mar 27th, 2007 07:52 am

45^th Post

thezone
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Got the part kit today. Instructions are useless. I guess the first question I have is how to get the trans out of the washer. Then, how do I put this kit in? Is it obvious once I get the tranny apart?

Posted: Tue Mar 27th, 2007 06:40 pm

46^th Post

hvacdrd
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1 - Remove the agitator

2 - Remove the cabinet

3 - Remove the pump, disconnect motor wires & remove motor.

4 - Tilt the machine back on a 45 degree angle & remove the 3 bolts(1/2" socket or wrench) securing the gearcase to the base. Hold onto the gearcase when removing #3 because it will drop out at this point.

5 - Secure the gearcase upright in a vise and remove the clutch assy, gearcase cover.

6 - Drain as much gear oil as you can (the hard part is over, now you can have a cold one)

7- Remove the spin gear (large plastic gear 4-5" diameter)

From here the kit instructions will tell you how things are assembled

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Posted: Tue Mar 27th, 2007 10:07 pm

47^th Post

raycon57
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If you like, you can e-mail me and I'll send you some pictures of a transmission being torn down and how it goes together. I have had neutral pack problems on new transmission from the factory. I’ll show you how to set the parts up correctly. Let me know. My e-mail is listed.

Posted: Wed Mar 28th, 2007 04:30 am

48^th Post

thezone
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Do I really need a vise to take this tranny apart?

Posted: Wed Mar 28th, 2007 05:42 pm

49^th Post

hvacdrd
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thezone wrote: Do I really need a vise to take this tranny apart?
No it just makes it easier to work on...

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Posted: Thu Mar 29th, 2007 10:25 pm

50^th Post

thezone
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I think that I got all your pictures, 1-20. Now for the questions!

1. Is it obvious on how to get the transmission out of the dryer? What are the steps to accomplish that? According to what I have read so far, that is the hardest part?

2. According to your pictures you didn't drain the oil. It doesn't look necessary, is it?

3. Why isn't there a gasket on the tranny cover? What keeps it from leaking? I assume there is no pressure, but doesn't the gear oil get slung around a bit form the transmission activity?

4. Do you have any pictures on tranny removal?

5. Your pictures are awesome!! Have a cold one on me!!

Posted: Wed Dec 23rd, 2009 11:19 pm

51^st Post

El Cheapo
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I'll take your advice on the sequence of steps for rebuilding the neutral drain assembly in the transmission.

Posted: Wed Dec 23rd, 2009 11:25 pm

52^nd Post

El Cheapo
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How do you pop off the gearcase cover?

Posted: Wed Dec 23rd, 2009 11:34 pm

53^rd Post

RegUS_PatOff
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some info:

STUDY COURSE (DIRECT DRIVE MODELS)

UNDERSTANDING AUTOMATIC WASHER:

• MECHANICAL COMPONENTS

787772 #4

Understanding Automatic Washer

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Posted: Thu Dec 24th, 2009 04:18 am

54^th Post

El Cheapo
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Thanks for the info from the manual.

Any suggestions on how to pop the cover off the gear case? After 10+ years with no leaks, the seal is pretty tight, and it won't easily come off the base.

Thanks!

Posted: Thu Dec 24th, 2009 09:57 am

55^th Post

That Guy

Joined:	Wed Jan 17th, 2007
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Take a putty knife or a small flat blade screwdriver and gently tap it in between the gearcase body and gearcase cover. Its very much like removing a valve cover on a V8 engine.

Once its open, clean away the old gasket material and don't get any in the oil. I use Permatex formagasket or high tack gasket sealant to seal the cover back on after repairs are made. Don't over tighten the screws. You could use a silicone sealant that is oil resistant too.

If you replace the oil, not nessassary normally unless really dirty, its 50 weight non-detergent. Or Buy the FSP bottle of oil. Good luck and Merry Christmas!

Posted: Thu Dec 24th, 2009 01:49 pm

56^th Post

El Cheapo
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THanks for the quick reply. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Merry Christmas to you too!

Posted: Sat Jan 2nd, 2010 04:45 am

57^th Post

El Cheapo
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Thanks again for your advice on removing the gearcase cover. It worked very well, and I was careful to seal it properly as per your instructions.

I replaced the neutral drain assembly, but the oil was in pretty bad shape. After draining the old oil, the gearcase was filled with synthetic oil since the washer is operated in a cold basement year round.

The washer has run through about a dozen cycles, and the neutral drain is now working like clockwork! However, there is a small, intermittent problem with the spin mode. At the completion of the wash cycle, the pump drains the tub as expected, but for some unknown reason, the washer stops before spinning. If I move the timer around to the final few minutes of agitation, it'll re-fill with water, agitate, drain, spin and finish the rinse cycle as it's supposed to do.

This happens once every four to six loads of wash, but I have been unable to observe the washer when it shuts down at 'spin' to see any symptoms like sounds. Yesterday for example, I watched four or five loads (complete cycles), and it performed flawlessly. However, the very next load skipped the first spin, and I wasn't in the basement to see it.

Any ideas what's behind this intermittent spin problem?

Thanks!

Posted: Wed May 26th, 2010 07:30 pm

58^th Post

fcrawley

Joined:	Thu May 13th, 2010
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got the manual...thanks!

Last edited on Wed May 26th, 2010 07:33 pm by fcrawley

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