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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Kenmore Ice maker Blues |
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| Kenmore Ice maker Blues | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Thu Mar 1st, 2007 08:43 pm |
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1st Post |
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wiretied Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Ok here it goes. Sometime back my icemaker quit working. It was not getting any water. My reefer is a Kenmore (363.9662811) and have an old style Ice maker (WR30X0327). I have fired the valve manually and it works. I show continuity from both sides (orange &white) from the valve plug to the plug in the freezer. I show voltage in the freezer plug (icemaker) going off of the schematic on the icemaker cover... from the white to the green and from the white to the orange. Ok , here's the rub,,,I switched out icemakers and have the same problem NO WATER. Soo,,besides being paunchy, slightly balding and generally unambitious what is my problem here?? Can you help?
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| Posted: Thu Mar 1st, 2007 10:39 pm |
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2nd Post |
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cdwasher Master Appliantologist
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It's most likely that you have a frozen water line going into the icemaker ,you can either apply voltage directly to the inlet valve and see if you are getting water to the ice maker or you can remove the thin plastic line from the inlet valve and blow through it and see if it is blocked , if so then you need a new valve, post back cdwasher trying to help
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| Posted: Thu Mar 1st, 2007 11:08 pm |
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3rd Post |
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wiretied Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Thanks, I checked the line and it is open, you think it's the valve? If so, why does it work when fired manually?
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| Posted: Fri Mar 2nd, 2007 02:21 am |
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4th Post |
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AccApp Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Does the water valve get voltage from the i/m when it is calling for water?
____________________ "When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth." Sir Arthur Conan Doyle. http://www.fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| Posted: Fri Mar 2nd, 2007 03:18 am |
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5th Post |
asteysn2
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Current to the water valve runs in series through the mold heater. When you work the water valve manually, you are bypassing the heater. Since the heater normally has very low resistance and the water valve has relatively high resistance, the voltage drop across the heater is negligible and the water valve still receives voltage sufficient enough to operate. You might try ohming out the water valve to see if its resistance has dropped significantly, or if there is resistance in the wires or loose connections in the circuit, that would, in the right spot, add to the resistance of the heater, thereby matching the resistance of the water valve more closely. If the valve does show lower resistance, the volt drop across the mold heater and the water valves would be more evenly divided, whereas the water valve then would not have sufficient voltage to operate. Make sure all the connections are tight and replace the water valve is your best bet. Robert Sankie Coastal Appliance, Heating & Air http://www.coastalappliances.com
____________________ Robert Sankie Coastal Appliance, Heating & Air Website: http://www.coastalappliances.com email: coastalserve@gmail.com |
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