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how to install my new adaptive defrost control board

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Posted: Mon Mar 13th, 2006 01:07 am

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Schematics and tech sheets are always useful. Domo! :dude:

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Posted: Mon Mar 13th, 2006 03:23 am

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paintballgoth
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yea....same problem here. Im going to replace what needs to be replaced.... just wondering.. should i replace the c2 and the relay? they both sound defective/not beefy enough.

Posted: Fri Jun 9th, 2006 09:38 pm

83^rd Post

CAG8OR
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First post here:

Great topic and excellent information. I have a Maytag MSD2758DR (2001). I have same problem as described many times previously. Just lost $500.00 in steaks and king crab while on vacation. Going to try replacing C2 and Relay as I live close to a Fry's here in San Jose. I will post my results later.

Many thanks to Reg for schematic.

Posted: Sat Jun 10th, 2006 08:07 am

84^th Post

CAG8OR
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I managed to purchase all the parts to upgrade my ADC circuit board per the posted instructions and all appears well. However, now I appear to have a new problem. The freezer is very cold and the beer cooler is luke warm. I have read many posts about frost blocking the air flow passage to the beer cooler, but this does not seem to be my problem. I feel plenty of cold air coming from the freezer into the beer cooler at the upper top left corner. My beer cooler has some fancy meat and produce coolers at the bottom with their own digital thermostats. These are not cooling down at all. It has been about six hours now and they are still around 70 degrees. For comparison a 16 ounce bottle of water I threw in the freezer four hours ago is nearly completely frozen. Is there a seperate air flow passage for these drawers? I notice there are two seperate fans for each drawer and they are not running.

I have a side by side Maytag MSD2758DR (2001).

Last edited on Sat Jun 10th, 2006 08:07 am by CAG8OR

Posted: Mon Jun 12th, 2006 11:38 pm

85^th Post

old fashioned
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I have a Maytag Mod. MSD2756DEW. It is not defrosting and makes the buzzing noise behind the temperature control levers. Before I try to replace the defrost control panel or any of the components, does anyone know if I can replace the electronic control panel with a manual, clock type, defrost control? It seems like that would solve the problem for good if it is possible to do that.

Posted: Tue Jun 13th, 2006 12:36 am

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Vincent
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What a great site! Googled myself here, read five pages of this thread, went to Radio Shack, paid $1.29 for a capacitor, did the first bit of soldering I've done since I was a teenager working on an electric guitar, and fixed a Maytag that my wife was planning on replacing. If I could do this, anyone can. Who would think?! Absolutely beautiful. Thanks to all of you! Cool, cool site.

P.S. Not related to appliances but somewhat related to samurai- Go is an incredible game. If you like chess, check out these sites:

http://www.usgo.org

http://kgs.kiseido.com/

Posted: Tue Jun 13th, 2006 01:08 am

87^th Post

CAG8OR
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Well, I found out why my beer cooler was not cooling. Actually, both the beer cooler and the meat locker thawed out after some time. Thanks to this site, I was able to locate the problem pretty quickly. My compressor start relay/overload combo had burnt to a crisp. I am supposed to receive it tomorrow and hopefully will back on line. I also ran across a post for a technical service bullentin for the beer cooler being warm while the freezer was cold. I am going to perform this routine as well, to see if it helps anything. Hard to believe they actually instruct their service repair men to tape up the grill like the front end of a NASCAR race car instead of sending out the later updated part. Sounds like there should have been a recall!

Posted: Wed Jun 21st, 2006 06:16 pm

88^th Post

jmccros
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I am being told by Jenn-air I can use part DEFROST KIT,ENHANCED ADAPTIVE
Maytag Part Number: 12002104 in my jcd2389geb series 11. Is this an improved part? Will it work?

Posted: Wed Jun 21st, 2006 07:26 pm

89^th Post

CAG8OR
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Well it has been almost two weeks now and all is well with both sides of my Maytag. Good thing too, because it was over a 100 today and the beer is still very cold! Thanks to all that posted the fixes here. By the way, the tape on the grill really helped to cool things off in the beer cooler side. :cheers:

Posted: Mon Jun 26th, 2006 03:37 am

90^th Post

Mr. Ho
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I definitely have the same problem with my Maytag MSD2957AEW, and am thankful for all the good advice on this thread. I visually inspected the ADC board and found that the C2 was a bit bulged at one end. Based on what I've heard, seems like that's the culprit. Am ready to pony up the $55 or so to replace, but like everyone else, want to save a buck where I can. So...

How involved is the process to solder a new C2 onto my existing ADC board? (I don't have the tools, etc, but am up for a challenge)

Should I take the old C2 off first?

Thanks...

Posted: Wed Jun 28th, 2006 01:05 am

91^st Post

Mr. Ho
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Decided not to replace the C2 cap, but rather the whole ADC board on my Maytag MSD2957AEW. After doing this, I followed advice on this thread about jumping L1 to Test. When I did this, compressor & freezer motors went off, ADC buzzed, but no action on the heater. Tried every which way with the jumpering...motors on/off...touching on contacts, and holding connection between for a few minutes. Nothing. Figured it must be the heating element and/or defrost terminator, so bought both as a new unit.

After installing the new heater/DTT, did the same jumping trick to try to initiate a defrost cycle. First, did this when the freezer temp lever turned to OFF. This produced a click then another click after about a second, no defrost. I tried this again with the lever set to midway, so that the compressor & freezer fan motors were running. This produced one click, and the motors going off. The interesting thing here is that in this second case, I could not turn the units back on by moving the lever from OFF, I had to reset the Referig switch on my main (house) circuit breaker first.   I tried this procedure both with removing the screwdriver from the contacts after hearing the click, and keeping it connected for some minutes afterward.

So, for all I know the system works just fine now, but I can't initiate the defrost and "see it for myself". Is there any way to be sure here?   I do have an Ohm/Volt meter, but it has the "probe" ends and not the clamp type. Any measurements I can easily take here?

Help!

Posted: Wed Jun 28th, 2006 01:30 am

92^nd Post

CAG8OR
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Mr. Ho:

I am no expert, but was able to fix my problem with the information posted. I am quite sure you wasted your money on the heater element. The unit never went into defrost cycle after jumping L1 to test, because your freezer was not cold enough to trip your thermostat switch, which is connected to one of the incoming lines to your evaporator. That is the coil with fins on it in the back of the freezer. The thermostatic switch is just that, it is a normally open switch above a certain temperature and closes when under that temperature. It is inline with one of the power leads to the heater. Therefore, even if the ADC board is sending power to the heater, unless this switch is closed the heater will not heat up. I am not sure what the setpoint is, but I am sure it is near freezing. I suppose you could test by submersing the switch in ice water and then jump L1 to test. If anyone dissagrees with my assessment, please feel free to correct me. Good Luck!

Last edited on Wed Jun 28th, 2006 01:33 am by CAG8OR

Posted: Wed Jun 28th, 2006 01:37 am

93^rd Post

CAG8OR
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Mr. Ho:

If you are having a hard time getting the compressor to start running after you have everything connected back up properly, please read my posts carefully on this page and see if your compressor overload relay is bad. If your fridge is similar in age to mine, I would bet it is on its way out. Simply pull it straight off the compressor and shake it. If it rattles it is bad. Mine was visibly burnt as well. Hope this helps.

Posted: Wed Jun 28th, 2006 01:50 am

94^th Post

Pegi
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You are exactly correct....it is called a defrost termination thermostat or a bi-metal or thermal limiter, re-sets usually around 14 degrees or so...good post...

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Posted: Wed Jun 28th, 2006 04:02 am

95^th Post

Mr. Ho
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CAG8OR and Pegi,

Thanks for the advice about icing down the DTT. (I had thought that the jumpering somehow "bypassed" that link). After icing and jumpering, the defrost heater started sizzling!

If anyone wants to pay the shipping on a good heater/DTT and/or bad ADC board, they're yours.

Posted: Sun Aug 13th, 2006 08:09 pm

96^th Post

RegUS_PatOff
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I'll pay the shipping for the bad ADC board if you still have it...

let me know or email me...

thanks

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Posted: Fri Sep 15th, 2006 02:24 am

97^th Post

douaic
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I successfully replaced my ADC last year with the info from this great site. However, I now have a iceberg growing on the floor of the freezer. The defrost cycle appears to be working fine, but the drain that leads to the pan below the motor, keeps freezing up. The water from the defrost drips down to the bottom of the freezer and builds the iceberg. Anyone seen this?

Posted: Fri Sep 15th, 2006 03:09 am

98^th Post

Pegi
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All of the time, remove the ice and find the clog in the drain and clear it...

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