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front load washers that smell and black debris  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Mon Jan 22nd, 2007 02:11 am
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jahjahbinks



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it has been a long lasting complaint about the smell and mold in front load washers , after lots of asking and probing i have fount the most common problems ,

#1 too much fabric softner and/or detergent  liquid fabric softner does not breakdown very well in cold water and the residue collectes on the outter tub and basket with the lint that is left from the wash and also collects additional soap and dirt and holds it .NOTE: TOO MUCH FABRIC SOFTNER WILL WATERPROOF CLOTHES.

#2 constant COLD water washes , this will not allow the detergent to breakdown as well leaving undesolved soap in the machine

#3 delayed time cycle, detergent will only hold dirt for 14 min`s ( TIDE , WHISK, E.T.C.) LIQUID OR POWDER  in most units the max wash cycle is 14 min`s in just the wash cycle ,rince cycles may vary

#4 failure to remove clothes at the end of cycle, front loaders don`t as much access to open air as top load machines , so leaving clothes in the washer for more than 8hrs will increase mold and mildew build up

i will offer some of the better soultions to better combat these problems

#1 HOT BATH : add 1 additional gallon of hot water to the unit before sending it into a hot wash , this will raise the water level high enough to remove the black dirt hiding behind the basket

#2 HOT BATH#2 SAME AS ABOVE add bleach to all dispensers , NOTE clean the fabric softner cup with a rag first, (bleach will not break up fabric sortner as it is introduced in the rinse cycle with the fabric softner 

#3 HOT BATH #3 SAME AS ABOVE 1 & 2 add a cap full of pine cleaner to the wash water - not the dispenser , and add some old rags (they don`t need to be dirty) and cycle unit with extra rinse the wash action will help remove the black  scum on the components

 

Last edited on Mon Jan 22nd, 2007 02:15 am by jahjahbinks



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 Posted: Mon Jan 22nd, 2007 02:37 am
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mastertech011
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Great  information and we were guilty of #1,#2, and #4 when we had catastrophic buildup accumulate in ours over 4 years of cold washing.  I had to take that puppy apart to clean it all up. 

Good advice to follow! Thanks! 

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 Posted: Sun Jan 28th, 2007 03:10 am
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jdpro
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I had a bad smell problem and wasn't using cold wash only.  I do, however, use liquid detergent exclusively.  In this case using a laundry booster with liquid detergent solved the bad smell problem. Borax, washing soda or baking soda all work equally well to improve liquid detergent performance and stop the bad smell as well. 

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 Posted: Mon Jan 29th, 2007 03:49 am
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longtimer
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I have been looking into this problem a long time and found not many patterns I could assign the problem to: not all machines have this problem but at one time or another I have run into this with just about every manufactuer,  exceptions so far being Miele and LG.......I suspected liquid fabric softners to be the main culprit due to thier sticky nature and possibly liquid detergent. I far as I can see the powder He detergents used from the start I have not had a problem.

key word from the start...once the problem shows it's ugly head it is real hard to remedy due to the lack of acces to outer tub. (at least for cleaning) it can be torn apart but not many want to do this just to scrap sides off.

well water vs public water   did not matter

liqiud detergent vs powder detergent   I think the powder is better (but is hard to change consumers minds on this)

liquid fabric softner vs dryer sheets?  do not like dryer sheets much but think liquid fabric softner in washer does more damge than sheets do to dryer.

bleach does not seem to help other than temporary

hot vs cold water ???? maybe hot does better

I have been told the persil detergent that Miele sells is great (and expensive)
and keeps the problem away, but yet cannot confirm.


I would love to get a absolute answer to this problem, but probably never will!

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 Posted: Mon Jan 29th, 2007 04:04 am
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I've seen it with LG's. Tech support's answer is to keep the door open when not in use.



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 Posted: Mon Jan 29th, 2007 04:26 am
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kingsx
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After I replaced the boot 
on my so far not so
evil  Maytag front loader...

I got in the habit of reaching in with a towel,
 and drying the area where water remains
and mildews up the rubber.

So far it has worked well
it takes about fifteen seconds

I wonder why I never heard of this before I figured it out,
or why Maytag themselves did not suggest this
method of prevention

instead of the idiotic line about leaving the door open,
 which is not very practical for most folks

.....or am I in fantsayland
and the smells will still brew
even without a puddle of water in the boot?

so far it the problem has been solved by the new boot



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 Posted: Mon Jan 29th, 2007 04:45 am
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AccApp
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The Bosch front loader user manuals tell the customer to wipe the gasket after use.

I heard the new Neptune boot has some sort of anti-mildew agent built-in, is that true?



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 Posted: Mon Jan 29th, 2007 12:42 pm
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mastertech011
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When I upgraded to a 7500 Neptune I decided to use powder only. I only use 1/4 cup Persil to an average load with that being blended with STPP.  I have not had to leave the door open and it has not developed any smell after 16 months so far. That and the hot washes on whites and my uniforms and bleach with the whites has also contributed to a much healthier laundry machine. Here is a pictoral book I posted here at the original site of my original model 4000 Neptune washer after 4 years of cold washes and liquid detergents, excessively used. We also used to use liquid fabric softner and now only use sheets in the dryer.

http://groups.msn.com/Appliantology/maytagneptunemolddisease.msnw

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 Posted: Mon Jan 29th, 2007 01:31 pm
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longtimer
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Door Open

leaving the door open certainly helps but is definately not the cure, especially since many washers the lights stayed on with the door open. Lg lights time out and shut off after a couple of minutes. Instructing the customer to leave The door open in what is mostly a walkway is difficult in itself

 

Wiping out interior

as far as wiping washer out each time, that again helps, but to instruct customer to do this as part of the privilage to pay $1000.00 for the washer to begin with, is a nasty pill to swallow on the sales floor. We do instruct customers as to the possibilities and their solutions. 

front loaders have been increasing their exposure to outside air by increasing vent size on the back.

all of these help the situation but does not either cure it of prevent it from happening.

has anyone had these symptoms on a MIele washer?

 

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 Posted: Tue Jan 30th, 2007 12:39 pm
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mastertech011
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You probably wont find many Miele with these problems because of that 200 degree wash temperature due to its 220 volt system. It also has stainless outer tub and uses very small amounts of detergent. Interestingly they do not advise using chlorine bleach as it may damage parts of the machine. They recommend oxygen bleach which makes sense since they have that near sterilizing temperature capability. Thieir capacity is  small in comparison to the behemoth US models  although they claim you can STUFF them to the guills and still get clean.

I believe if our USA made machines had that 220 heater they would do much better as well. Miele is coming out with new large USA sized machines now, with only a 110 heater from my understanding. I think they are taking a gamble on both longevity and reputation with them but they certainly can rely on name recognition for some time in any case. The price of the units may keep sales down though. They also have moved a lot of their production out of country which has raised some eyebrows.

 

Last edited on Tue Jan 30th, 2007 12:43 pm by mastertech011

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 Posted: Sat Jul 28th, 2007 01:59 am
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jdpro
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Hi,

Reviving this old thread because my odor problem came back, even with using the booster.  I have to use liquid detergent because I have very hard water, and the powders just don't dissolve well. 

So I found out about this product available online, called purewasher. I used it and it does seem to have removed the fungus odor from my machine.   Has anyone else tested this product?

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 Posted: Mon Aug 27th, 2007 01:50 pm
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Chesterfoxes
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I've found that small articles getting between the drum and the tub end up in the trap adjacent to the pump - if left be, these articles will become biological experiments.  I've also found articles trapped in the black rubber drain boot between the bottom of the tub and the trap. 

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 Posted: Mon Aug 27th, 2007 11:28 pm
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BLTH15

 

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chester-this is what keeps us in business junk in the boot junk in the drain pump it's a never ending story.  jd sears and a&e techs sell washer magic probably the same stuff as purewasher 

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 Posted: Mon Mar 9th, 2009 04:26 am
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Tomorokoshi
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I pour a couple tablespoons of ammonia in with powder detergent with each load. It works well to keep the problem at bay, although if it's a severe problem it can take a while to clear out.

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 Posted: Mon Mar 9th, 2009 06:15 am
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Tomorokoshi,   you are one lucky S.A.A.      Do you know what happens if you mix the ammonia with chlorine bleach ( by accident ) ?       You get chlorine gas,      ( you could be dead  by the time  you hit the floor ).......There  are some brands of detergent with bleach included..... Wipe the boot and all areas with a bleach solution every 30 loads and keep the door open between wash cycles.....  keep the drain ports clear, in the bottom of the front boot/bellows.....

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