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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > 1950's Frigidaire compressor relay |
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| Moderated by: BrntToast, RegUS_PatOff, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! | Page:   1 2 |
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| 1950's Frigidaire compressor relay | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Sat Jan 20th, 2007 09:54 pm |
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21st Post |
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Keinokuorma Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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I've been used to a little different connection. Look below. Attachment: simple_fridge.jpg (Downloaded 69 times) Last edited on Sun Jan 21st, 2007 01:12 am by Keinokuorma ____________________ "There is no reason anyone would want a computer in their home." - Ken Olson, Digital Equipment Corporation (1977) |
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| Posted: Sun Jan 21st, 2007 01:14 am |
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22nd Post |
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Keinokuorma Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Not sure if I'm exactly following what you wrote. But if I am only measuring 5 ohms, does that mean the compressor is drawing something like 25amps at 125Volts? No. There will be inductance. That leads to reactance, which is frequency dependent. Inductive reactance is proportional to frequency. Trigonometrically summed up with the resistance, you get impedance. Assuming that the compressor run winding draws 3A at normal running status, we can calculate that the impedance of the winding at 60Hz is 125V divided by 3A, result is 42 Ohms. But your meter will say it's 5 ohms because you're measuring at zero frequency. The bottom line is, if you want to know the current draw, you can't calcualte it plainly by voltage and resistance in this case. Were you measuring a dryer or range element, or light bulb, things with next to no inductance, that would be plausible. but in this case, you must go right to the spot and measure the current. Clamp-on meter isn't as invasive as the conventional method where you connect a meter in series with the load. So since the compressor runs for a few minutes and doesn't just shut off when I temporarily hook it up the way That Guy suggested, I guess I'd like to check out how to hook up the 3-in-1 to see if it will run for an extended period of time. I can't seem to figure out how to hook it up correctly though. Any ideas on how to do it? Why not try the wiring above. This is of course a simplified system with no defrost system etc... but most of the cheap-o Yurup fridges are done just like this. Much can't go wrong with any rocket science elecronics there. Just plainly thermostat turning comp on and off, and the door switch only operating the interior light. But the wiring between the relay and compressor is what we need of this. And, with your supco relay, the packaging slip shows just this. Two wires for power, three for comp. Thermostat controls power to the relay. Note that in this diagram PE stands for Protection Earth, or just Ground. Its only purpose is to keep the chassis potential at ground potential. Also the L/N polarity should not really make a difference in a healthy system. Last edited on Mon Jan 22nd, 2007 01:52 am by Keinokuorma ____________________ "There is no reason anyone would want a computer in their home." - Ken Olson, Digital Equipment Corporation (1977) |
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| Posted: Tue Jan 23rd, 2007 12:36 am |
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23rd Post |
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Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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Should be simple, put the common, start and run/motor wires from the 3n1 onto the common, start, run/motor terminals of the compressor and splice line 1 and line 2 of the 3n1 into line 1 and line2 of the two wires from the frig that go to the compressor....see if it will run but you sure do not want to sit there with your face over the compressor in case it decides to show you what the inside of a compressor looks like up close...
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic! 
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| Posted: Tue Jan 23rd, 2007 12:47 am |
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24th Post |
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goingcommando Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Beer is cold again! I wired it up as you depiced Keinokuorma. Only difference is that it did matter for some reason which was L and which was N that the 3-n-1 hooked up to. Of course, I hooked it up the wrong way first and nothing happened. Then switched the wiring of those two wires and all has been well. So barring any unforseen compressor meltdowns, I think it is cooling just fine. Thanks so much for all the help from everyone. Learned a lot and hopefully will be able to contribute some knowledge down the road. Thanks again, -gc
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| Posted: Tue Jan 23rd, 2007 01:20 am |
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25th Post |
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Keinokuorma Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Congratulations for successful repair. Let us hope the fridge will yet have many good years with the new pacemaker. Here's a cold one straight from my stock, still got a couple left from Christmas. Attachment: Koff Jouluolut 2006.jpg (Downloaded 53 times)
____________________ "There is no reason anyone would want a computer in their home." - Ken Olson, Digital Equipment Corporation (1977) |
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| Posted: Mon Mar 29th, 2010 03:51 am |
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26th Post |
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djsmiles Grasshopper
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My 1950 Fridgidaire had the same problem, but fortunately I was able to find an original relay still in the box, from Mark Gealy, but i can't find his site by searching. Anyway, I'm ready to drill the holes for the spouts, but need to know if there are any important lines or wires running through the left wall of the fridge. Does anyone know?
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| Posted: Thu Nov 18th, 2010 02:46 pm |
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27th Post |
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ElChingon Grasshopper
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I have a 1950's era Fridgidaire and the compressor was really noisy when I recently plugged it in. About an hour later when I checked it again, the compressor was really really hot, and smelled like burned electrical.. I shut it off. After it cooled it wants to trip the 20 amp circuit breaker. I installed a RCO810 3N1 starter but it only tries to start the compressor for about 10 sec then it shuts off. The compressor never gets going. Do you think this means my compressor is shot? Or do I need a more powerful 3N1 starter like the RCO 410 ? Thanks!
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