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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag Neptune MAH4000AWQ |
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| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, BrntToast, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! | Page:   1 2 |
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| Maytag Neptune MAH4000AWQ | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Thu Dec 28th, 2006 04:57 am |
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21st Post |
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Trying to help Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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If you went Gray to Red and you read 120VAC then nothing when you pressed it in your switch should be good, that does not mean the L1 potential is making it up to the board on the same red 28 wire though. You will want to do a voltage test on the top of the red 28 wire with it still attached to the board with one meter lead, and the other on the white wire on the board by itself. When you hit the start button do you read 120VAC? Does the board beep when you press this switch and the door is closed in a run cycle? Also, in the test I gave prior, when you hit the start button, do either the delay light or on light come on? Do they stay on when released?
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| Posted: Thu Dec 28th, 2006 04:40 pm |
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22nd Post |
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Punchdrunk Monkey Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I tested the 28 from at the switch to the white wire and got 120v with button pressed. The board does not beep. The delay light comes on with button pressed then turns off when I release the button. On light never comes on.
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| Posted: Thu Dec 28th, 2006 05:35 pm |
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23rd Post |
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Trying to help Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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What color wires do you have on the line relay (black box on the right hand side of the board) and which wire is on top?
____________________ If we saved YOU Beer $$ today, please make a donation to our beer fund by clicking the link below to help keep this site going. I charge $135.95 PLUS PARTS to do this repair!$! http://fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| Posted: Thu Dec 28th, 2006 06:48 pm |
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24th Post |
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Punchdrunk Monkey Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Brown and grey, brown is on top
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| Posted: Thu Dec 28th, 2006 08:16 pm |
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25th Post |
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Trying to help Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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I am assuming you mean the Black (Com) #1 wire is on top and the Gray (NO) is below. As long as the board is getting the correct inputs in you should be starting in that test mode. Even with units that have the motor board and motor out of them should enter the test mode and stay in it till the door is opened. Make sure all your wiring is correct on what you have fooled with, and it it is, your board is bad. Did you try and rebuild this board or did you buy it new??
____________________ If we saved YOU Beer $$ today, please make a donation to our beer fund by clicking the link below to help keep this site going. I charge $135.95 PLUS PARTS to do this repair!$! http://fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| Posted: Thu Dec 28th, 2006 08:40 pm |
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26th Post |
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Punchdrunk Monkey Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I tryed to rebuild the board only because the Q6, R11 and Z2 came with the wax motor. I figured it's free to try. I just wanted to make sure that the board was still bad before I spent the $$ on a new one. So, I guess it's time to order a board and do some laundry.
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| Posted: Thu Jan 4th, 2007 03:33 am |
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27th Post |
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Punchdrunk Monkey Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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She's ALIVE! Just installed the new control board and it's off to the races. Now time to attack the pile of laundry. Thanks for the help!
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