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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag Neptune MAH4000AWQ |
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| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, BrntToast, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! | Page: 1 2   |
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| Maytag Neptune MAH4000AWQ | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Wed Dec 20th, 2006 03:25 am |
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1st Post |
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Punchdrunk Monkey Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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My Neptune won't start! If I press the start button nothing happens. Then I manually turn the knob to rinse or spin and press the start button, I can hear the motor trying to work but won't kick on. The repair guy looked at it today and wanted $400 to fix it. Help oh powerful Samurai. The Maytag repair guy doesn't understand the power of BEER.
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| Posted: Wed Dec 20th, 2006 03:33 am |
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2nd Post |
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Punchdrunk Monkey Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I just looked at the board and the Z2 "thingy" is smoked. Can I soilder a new one on or do I need a new board? The "thingy" is now black so I con't tell the color markings on it.
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| Posted: Wed Dec 20th, 2006 03:42 am |
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3rd Post |
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Punchdrunk Monkey Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Ok my Q6 clearly threw a rod and shot a bolt to the mounting screw which caused a critical failure of my Z2. Looks like I need a new control panel. Where is the best place to get one. Also, what would cause such devastation? Is it safe to merely toss in a new panel or should repairs be done?
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| Posted: Wed Dec 20th, 2006 03:58 am |
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4th Post |
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Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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You can get the parts right here thru this site, click on appliance parts at the top, however I understand from reading the forums you have to replace the door lock assy also as that is what damaged the board...
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic! 
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| Posted: Wed Dec 20th, 2006 04:27 am |
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5th Post |
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Trying to help Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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The board you are looking at, is it behind the control panel, or down on the floor of the unit, right hand side front??
____________________ If we saved YOU Beer $$ today, please make a donation to our beer fund by clicking the link below to help keep this site going. I charge $135.95 PLUS PARTS to do this repair!$! http://fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| Posted: Wed Dec 20th, 2006 04:40 am |
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6th Post |
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Punchdrunk Monkey Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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In the back panel, almost directly behind the knob
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| Posted: Wed Dec 20th, 2006 04:44 am |
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7th Post |
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Punchdrunk Monkey Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Sorry, one other thing. Where is the part number on the board? I was searching for a new board and most call out a 8 digit number. All the numbers I see on the board have more than 8? Also, will a board for a MAH4000AWW work in my MAH4000AWQ? Last edited on Wed Dec 20th, 2006 04:49 am by Punchdrunk Monkey |
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| Posted: Wed Dec 20th, 2006 04:52 am |
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8th Post |
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Trying to help Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Click Link below to buy the board. If R11 is smoked, you will need a door lock wax motor as well http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=775784
____________________ If we saved YOU Beer $$ today, please make a donation to our beer fund by clicking the link below to help keep this site going. I charge $135.95 PLUS PARTS to do this repair!$! http://fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| Posted: Wed Dec 20th, 2006 04:53 am |
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9th Post |
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AccApp Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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The # I get is 22002989 which may not be anywhere on the current board. At the very least, replace the board and the wax motor in the door latch. The last character in the Model Number merely indicates exterior color, a W is white, a Q is bisque (formerly known as Almond).
____________________ "When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth." Sir Arthur Conan Doyle. http://www.fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| Posted: Wed Dec 20th, 2006 05:25 am |
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10th Post |
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Punchdrunk Monkey Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Trying to help wrote: Click Link below to buy the board. If R11 is smoked, you will need a door lock wax motor as well Only the z2 and q6 were smoked, but there was also some black marks near the metal stud (holding bord down). The Q6 (tall black thing) looks like the side blew out of it (part of housing missing and wire sticking out). It looks like it arc'ed to the metal stud then across to the Z2. Or in the opposite direction (Z2 to stud to Q6). The R11 appears to be ok. I just looked at the board again and definately a good size arc to the stud. Nice 1/4" black mark next to stud slot on board and arc mark on the threads . The repair guy told my wife it needed a new board and wax motor??
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| Posted: Wed Dec 20th, 2006 09:45 am |
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11th Post |
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Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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That is exactly what you need..... If you're handy with a soldering iron and tools you may be able to repair the board yourself. Take a look at these links and see if you're up to it: http://members.shaw.ca/gavb/ http://www.goetjen.com/maytag.htm http://www.mlittle.com/appliance/neptune/
____________________ William Burk (Willie) Willie's Budget Appliance Repair Eureka, CA 95501 |
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| Posted: Wed Dec 20th, 2006 10:10 pm |
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12th Post |
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Keinokuorma Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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Punchdrunk Monkey wrote: Ok my Q6 clearly threw a rod and shot a bolt to the mounting screw which caused a critical failure of my Z2. Now this I haven't heard before. As far as I can see from the pics around, Z2 is a zener diode, about an inch away from Q6... and that space has somehow arced???
____________________ "There is no reason anyone would want a computer in their home." - Ken Olson, Digital Equipment Corporation (1977) |
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| Posted: Thu Dec 21st, 2006 12:45 am |
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13th Post |
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Punchdrunk Monkey Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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After doing some more research I decided to check the fuse on the lower board. It is ok. There is no damage to the lower control board. From what is looks (or sounds) like I need a new control board and wax motor. BUT nobody has mentioned anything about the Z2 diode burning up??? Was this just damaged by the arc from the Q6? ALSO the R11 is fine (this seems to be the common wax motor problem). How does one go about changing a wax motor? Better yet, what is a wax motor? Last edited on Thu Dec 21st, 2006 12:46 am by Punchdrunk Monkey |
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| Posted: Thu Dec 21st, 2006 09:35 am |
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14th Post |
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Keinokuorma Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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You need to go into the door lock mechanism. The wax motor consists of a cylinder and piston... between them there is some special wax and a small heater. the piston will then extend or withdraw when power is applied or removed. Not the most failsafe system available, a solenoid would do in many cases. Picture and acquisition aid here: http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1063620 Last edited on Thu Dec 21st, 2006 10:56 am by Keinokuorma ____________________ "There is no reason anyone would want a computer in their home." - Ken Olson, Digital Equipment Corporation (1977) |
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| Posted: Wed Dec 27th, 2006 12:42 am |
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15th Post |
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Punchdrunk Monkey Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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OK, so I replaced the wax motor, R11, Q6 and Z2 and it still doesn't work????? If I try and start the machine all I hear is click noise coming from the area behind the knob. Again, my previous discriptions of the damage were poor. The Q6 blew, arc'ed to the mounting bolt then to the Z2. The R11 "looked" fine (I replaced it just in case). Now what?
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| Posted: Wed Dec 27th, 2006 01:14 am |
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16th Post |
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Trying to help Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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We need to know if your motor control board is good. Just because the fuse was not blown does not mean it's good. Grab you meter and set it for 120VAC scale, take the front panel off by removing the screws in the hinges that go sideways into the cabinet and the plates on the opposite side that cover the hinge holes if you were to reverse the doors. The motor board is located on the lower right hand side. Pull the JP4 harness off the motor board (right in front on the board, has two whites, red, yellow & blue wires. Turn the dial into 6 hour delay and start the machine(door on or door switch taped in). With the on light and delay light on do a voltage check at the motor board at the two wire harness in front of the board (Black and White, might have a green ground), you want to go from white to black. If you read 120VAC and the motor is not moving, you will need the before mentioned motor kit. Just click on the link below to view and or order it. If the motor does take off in this test mode in a 50 RPM spin, and runs indefinitely until you open the door to abort the test, additional testing will be needed.
____________________ If we saved YOU Beer $$ today, please make a donation to our beer fund by clicking the link below to help keep this site going. I charge $135.95 PLUS PARTS to do this repair!$! http://fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| Posted: Thu Dec 28th, 2006 03:08 am |
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17th Post |
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Punchdrunk Monkey Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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JP4 pulled, door on, 6hr delay, press the start button and it makes a clicking noise and I can hear water sloshing. I did have to hold down the start button. If I release the button, it turns off. I put a meter on the black/white wires then pushed the button (holding it on) and it read 120v. Same thing with the click and water sloshing. Definitely not turning 50rpm.
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| Posted: Thu Dec 28th, 2006 04:29 am |
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18th Post |
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Trying to help Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Problems big guy. Your push to start switch has two momentary contacts that have to make to start this unit. One contact sends a signal to the board to "wake it up, basically pull in the line relay and hold it in. The other contact sends power to the timer which sends it to the motor board. Now when you say if you release the button it shuts off, do you mean after about 7-10 seconds or so or just about as soon as you release it? If it is as soon as you release it, we will want to see if the board is getting L1 potential from the switch on the 28 wire which is either red or yellow depending on the series number of the unit. If not, we will want to check that switch or wire for it's integrity. We know the power to it is good because the motor runs when you hold it. If it shuts off after about 10 seconds or so, we will want to again check the start switch, but this time for the contact to be welded shut and feeding the board power on the 28 wire all the time. This causes the unit to shut down after approximately 10 seconds. Grab a meter and do those checks and we should be a little closer to clean clothes.
____________________ If we saved YOU Beer $$ today, please make a donation to our beer fund by clicking the link below to help keep this site going. I charge $135.95 PLUS PARTS to do this repair!$! http://fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| Posted: Thu Dec 28th, 2006 04:35 am |
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19th Post |
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Punchdrunk Monkey Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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When I release the button the motor kinda ramps down. I'd guess it's in the 7-10 second range before it stops. I'm gonna have to read and re-read the next test to digest what I need to do. I am by no means an electrician. I'll update ASAP.
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| Posted: Thu Dec 28th, 2006 04:40 am |
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20th Post |
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Punchdrunk Monkey Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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OK I found the 28 wire. It's the red wire on back side of the switch. Now how do I test it? I'm guessing I meter from the 28 wire but to where? Ok I felt adventurous and tried this test. I put the meter from one side of the switch to the other side. It read 120v, when I press the button it loses voltage. Last edited on Thu Dec 28th, 2006 04:47 am by Punchdrunk Monkey |
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