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Jenn Air W276 wall oven  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Fri Dec 8th, 2006 04:30 am
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alanbr
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I completed a clean cycle one evening, and the next day, the oven would  not heat up.  The clock, display and all function buttons work fine.  There is no error code.  The display will read 140 degrees, which is normal when starting, but the elements do not heat.  I can hear at least one relay click intermittently.  I checked the thermostat and it has continuity.  I measured about 20 ohms resistance across both elements, measured at the relay terminals.  (Couldn't figure out how to get the element out)  Is that okay for the element?  Or is the problem with the relay/transformer board?  I didn't think it made sense for both elements to fail at the same time.  But I can see from the wiring diagram that one bad relay could stop both elements from heating.  Any help on deciding which part to change first will be appreciated.

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 Posted: Fri Dec 8th, 2006 10:42 am
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Keinokuorma
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Now you may just have tripped thermal protection. Look for a button at the backside of the oven.



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 Posted: Fri Dec 8th, 2006 04:29 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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I'm not finding anything in the Maytag database on this unit, which means it's really, really old. I also noticed that many of the parts on this unit are going NLA (no longer available) which means the unit is being orphaned. Keep this in mind if it gets to a point of spending big $$ on parts.

Will the need the wiring diagram (me no gotty) of the range so we can develop a troubleshooting "strategery." Post here or fax to me at 775-416-4449.



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 Posted: Fri Dec 8th, 2006 04:42 pm
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Trying to help
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You said the tstat ohms good.  I assume you mean the hi limit tstat with the two orange wires on it.  Sometimes ohming a component is not good enough, they can fail under load. FOR TEST PURPOSES ONLY you can jump the wires together and try it, or you can leave them on and program it for bake 350 and do a voltage check across it.  If it reads nothing, it's OK.  If it reads 240VAC or so, it is bad.  The other common thing between both bake and broil is the Double Line Relay built onto your board.  If in bake, you read 240VAC from the L1 Black wire to the DLB Orange wire, then that relay is not closing and it is bad.  The clock sends low voltage inputs to the board to close the relays. I have these tests if needed, but since you hear relays clicking, for now we will assume they are getting there inputs.  



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 Posted: Fri Dec 8th, 2006 08:22 pm
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alanbr
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Okay, I did the tests.  With the oven on bake, I measured voltage across the terminals on the hi limit stat, and read .50 volts.  I assume that is close enough to zero to mean the stat is okay.  Then I measured from the L1 black wire on the relay board to the DLB orange wire on the hi limit stat, and read 115 volts.  Does that  mean the relay is open, even though I didn't read 240 volts?  I am thinking I need to replace the relay board, do you agree?  Thanks.

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 Posted: Fri Dec 8th, 2006 09:03 pm
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Trying to help
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Should of been 240VAC there my Mich Ultra drinking friend.  Do me a flavor and see if the unit will lock the door for clean, then after it does or doesn't do that, see if the unit will convect bake.  I do not think it will heat but am more interested in seeing if the convect fan comes on.  If it does lock, and the fan does come on in convect, we need to do the following 240VAC voltage checks and post the info below as well as checking to make sure the J2 harness is secure at both the clock and board ends.

Unit set for bake, control calling for heat.  All checks at voltage board.  Be very careful  Mich Ultra, these are live checks.

L1 - L2

DLB - BA

L1 - BA

L2 - DLB  



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 Posted: Sat Dec 9th, 2006 06:11 am
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alanbr
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Here are my test results.  When put in clean mode, the door locks and a fan starts, the cooling fan I think.  It does not heat.  When put in convection bake mode, no fan runs, but I can hear a very faint hum.  Also no heat.

The voltage checks are as follows:

              Power On only       Bake cycle

L1 - L2          240 volts

DLB - BA            0 volts             0 volts

L1- BA           115 volts         240 volts

L2 - DLB            0 volts           26 volts

L1- DLB         115 volts         240 volts

 

I redid the L1-DLB check from earlier in the day.  Earlier I must not have waited long enough for the relay to pull in.  So this means the DLB relay is bad?   I am still confused about why I read 115 volts when off.  And what about the convection fan not running.  Does that mean CV relay is not working?  Is the convection motor possibly bad along with some bad relays?  Thanks.

 

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 Posted: Sat Dec 9th, 2006 01:14 pm
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Trying to help
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DLB relay is not closing so the board is bad.  The convect fan should be on in convect, try flicking it with your finger, if not used, could be bound.  Test on board would be in convect bake,  when heating, CV to L, if 240VAC bad motor (schematic shows your convect motor is 240VAC on my old schematic, I do not remember myself but I thought it would be 120VAC, trust your meter and not my memory!).  Some older units waited for Pre-Heat to be over prior to kicking on the fan, some have switches on the frame to stop the unit.  If yours will not heat, and the door switches were not closed, it will not run.  I would worry about the no heat first.  The last check if you want to be 100% sure it is the board would be to make sure the low voltage command is coming out of the clock.  I suspect it is because the other input to close the BA terminal was there (by your 240VAC reading L2-BA) but if you want to be 100%, the voltage would be on the J2 harness, in the bake mode from wire numbers 1-3 should have 24VDC when the unit is calling for heat in bake. The J2 harness is the white harness that runs from the clock to the relay board.  The clock side is listed as J2, I believe at the board it is listed J1.  If that voltage is there, bad board Mich Ultra.  Link is below for the relay board.  Take a gander to order it and make sure it is the correct one.      

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=347945



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 Posted: Mon Dec 11th, 2006 02:50 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Nice shootin', TTH! :armed:



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 Posted: Mon Dec 11th, 2006 04:28 am
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stumpowitz



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All hail TTH...:notworthy:



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 Posted: Sun Dec 17th, 2006 05:39 am
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alanbr
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I ordered the relay board from Repair Clinic.  Got it installed today, and the oven works fine now.  The new board does not have near the electronic circuitry that the old board did.  The old board had several small capacictors, and the new board doesn't have any.  I don't know if that is important or not.  The oven seems to be working fine.  Thanks for all your good help.

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 Posted: Sun Dec 17th, 2006 06:31 am
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Trying to help
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:rocketman:  That's right , who's your daddy!! Gotta love keeping an old unit up and running.  Does my heart good.  Nice savings there my Mich Ultra drinking friend.  If you were lucky enough to get a good tech out there ti replace just the board you saved a minimum 130$ or so. A lot of shady companies would of hit you for the board and clock.  Great fix alanbr!! Spread the word brother!!      



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