Amana Bottom Freezer/Fridge Mod# BX21VW MFG NO P1326002WW - The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum - Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help - ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums

ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums Home

ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Amana Bottom Freezer/Fridge Mod# BX21VW MFG NO P1326002WW

Find Appliance Parts & Diagrams Here

Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.

365-day return policy on all parts ordered through this site!

Moderated by: BrntToast, RegUS_PatOff, appl.tech.29501

Search Our Sites for More Info!

Page: 1 2 3

New Topic

Printer Friendly

Amana Bottom Freezer/Fridge Mod# BX21VW MFG NO P1326002WW

Rate Topic

Author	Post

Posted: Mon May 7th, 2007 05:30 pm

Quote

21^st Post

whynotmi
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist

Joined:	Tue Dec 5th, 2006
Location:	Ypsilanti, Michigan USA
Posts:	29
Flavorite Brew:	newcastle
Status:	Offline

Hiya Pegi,

Always nice to hear from you but sorry I have to, (if you know what I mean). :-)

OK, I kinda goofed maybe. I turned the what I guess is the heater control, the knob under the toe plate, until the fridge clicked off. In order to help thaw I left the door open so I'm not sure how much of the thaw I'm seeing is from the heater and how much is from the door being open.

That said, the fan kicked back in about 40 minutes after I had set the heater even though there was still a LOT of frost on the coils. About the only place that showed any really obvious thawing were the air intake chamber on the top left of the coils and the loop on the top right of the coils.

As a kind of retest I've reset the heater and now have the door closed. I expect that will give me a better understanding of the result.

Are any or all the 3 possible causes you mentioned fixable by someone who has no talent for tools whatsoever?

I know I'm asking for a bit of hand holding here but I am an appliance infant. lol

Newcastle Brian

Quote

Posted: Mon May 7th, 2007 05:58 pm

Quote

22^nd Post

Pegi
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

Joined:	Tue May 3rd, 2005
Location:	Wichita Falls, Texas USA
Posts:	13120
Flavorite Brew:	Sweet Iced Tea
Status:	Offline

Ok sounds like your timer is ok but the defrost heater did not come on, need to see if the heater is broken or the defrost thermostat, or both, it if was my frig I would replace both if they do not come together in a kit...

____________________
To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org

365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!

Quote

Posted: Mon May 7th, 2007 06:05 pm

Quote

23^rd Post

whynotmi
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist

Joined:	Tue Dec 5th, 2006
Location:	Ypsilanti, Michigan USA
Posts:	29
Flavorite Brew:	newcastle
Status:	Offline

Okey Doke,

Is replacing these parts something a total novice can do? If so, I'll go to the parts site and start digging around for the replacement parts needed.

Thanks again Pegi (and Poobah of course)

Cheers,

NB

Quote

Posted: Mon May 7th, 2007 06:13 pm

Quote

24^th Post

Poobah
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

Joined:	Wed Jan 18th, 2006
Location:	Toler, Kentucky USA
Posts:	1485
Flavorite Brew:	Iced Tea
Status:	Offline

here's your diagram.part #'s 43...23 are the ones and both unplug and plug in easi;ly.......heater........................bi-metal...........go ahead for the piece of mind.price of food..and just because they aren't that expensive and change both as Pegi said should be an easy swap.good luck

____________________
This is the DAY that the LORD has made, REJOICE and be glad in it.....

Quote

Posted: Mon May 7th, 2007 06:15 pm

Quote

25^th Post

Poobah
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

Joined:	Wed Jan 18th, 2006
Location:	Toler, Kentucky USA
Posts:	1485
Flavorite Brew:	Iced Tea
Status:	Offline

the diagram you will need to refer to is the one on the bottom right......if you notice there are 2 metal clips that need to be popped off to release the heater..other than that just make sure everything is melted down completely when finished with the install...that air box on the left espescially needs to be spotless....congrats so far

____________________
This is the DAY that the LORD has made, REJOICE and be glad in it.....

Quote

Posted: Mon May 7th, 2007 06:21 pm

Quote

26^th Post

whynotmi
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist

Joined:	Tue Dec 5th, 2006
Location:	Ypsilanti, Michigan USA
Posts:	29
Flavorite Brew:	newcastle
Status:	Offline

Ordering the parts right now.

I'll let you know how things go.

Thanks again for the help. Y'all are the greatest.

Cheers and great iced tea!

NB

Quote

Posted: Mon May 7th, 2007 06:33 pm

Quote

27^th Post

whynotmi
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist

Joined:	Tue Dec 5th, 2006
Location:	Ypsilanti, Michigan USA
Posts:	29
Flavorite Brew:	newcastle
Status:	Offline

OK, just because it's too funny not to share... I went to the parts page and started my order. When I got to shipping options I saw that there was an option for me to pick up the parts. I checked and the Repairclinic.com store is all of about 15 minutes from my house. With a little luck I'll have everything right as rain tomorrow.

Yipeeeee!

Quote

Posted: Tue May 8th, 2007 04:30 pm

Quote

28^th Post

whynotmi
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist

Joined:	Tue Dec 5th, 2006
Location:	Ypsilanti, Michigan USA
Posts:	29
Flavorite Brew:	newcastle
Status:	Offline

Hi,

I'm mostly thawed and have the parts but I'm wondering if there's some trick I should know to getting those clips out from under the heating element. From what I can tell there's barely any room to get under there. Can anything else be removed to allow greater access to the underside of the coils? If not, I'll see what I can do to remove them without damaging the coils but I'd rather double check before I start.

My great neighbors are storing my food so I'm not so time crunched as I was feeling yesterday. Of course I don't want to bother them too long. Great fences and fridges making good neighbors and all that.

As always,

Thanks

Newcastle Brian

Quote

Posted: Tue May 8th, 2007 05:15 pm

Quote

29^th Post

Poobah
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

Joined:	Wed Jan 18th, 2006
Location:	Toler, Kentucky USA
Posts:	1485
Flavorite Brew:	Iced Tea
Status:	Offline

If I remember correctly those wire clips just have curved ends and clip around the coils......a pair of needle nose pliers should work wonders

____________________
This is the DAY that the LORD has made, REJOICE and be glad in it.....

Quote

Posted: Tue May 8th, 2007 05:30 pm

Quote

30^th Post

whynotmi
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist

Joined:	Tue Dec 5th, 2006
Location:	Ypsilanti, Michigan USA
Posts:	29
Flavorite Brew:	newcastle
Status:	Offline

Hi Poobah,

Okey doke I'll give it a whirl. I will say though that I have grave doubts as to my ability to replace the clips. There is something less than .25 inch clearance between the bottom of the coils and the drip pan and I can't for the life of me imagine how I'd get the clips back on without doing some serious damage to the fins of the coil. To be honest, I'm a little worried about my ability to pull the element out from under the coil, that's how tight a fit it is.

I'll let you know how things go.

Cheers

Quote

Posted: Tue May 8th, 2007 05:46 pm

Quote

31^st Post

whynotmi
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist

Joined:	Tue Dec 5th, 2006
Location:	Ypsilanti, Michigan USA
Posts:	29
Flavorite Brew:	newcastle
Status:	Offline

Hi,

Well, sorry to say I don't see how I can remove the clips, at least not without doing some major damage to the surrounding fins. I can get the front "hook" off the coil but the back is still on and there's absolutely no way I can find to reach it unless there's a way of pulling the entire coil block out of the back of the fridge.

As far as I can tell the coil is not designed to be pulled from the back wall of the fridge. If I'm wrong and there is a way to pull the coil out so it clears the drip pan please let me know.

You've been so patient with me and I really appreciate it and hope you aren't too fed up with me at this point.

Cheers

Quote

Posted: Tue May 8th, 2007 06:01 pm

Quote

32^nd Post

Pegi
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

Joined:	Tue May 3rd, 2005
Location:	Wichita Falls, Texas USA
Posts:	13120
Flavorite Brew:	Sweet Iced Tea
Status:	Offline

Looking at Image # 3 in your breakdown looks like the clips are removed down-ward? Yea, do not want to try to move the evaperator, and if you smish some finnies suppose you can straighten them back out carefully with a butter knife, but do not want to touch that freon line inside of the fins...

____________________
To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org

365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!

Quote

Posted: Tue May 8th, 2007 06:15 pm

Quote

33^rd Post

whynotmi
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist

Joined:	Tue Dec 5th, 2006
Location:	Ypsilanti, Michigan USA
Posts:	29
Flavorite Brew:	newcastle
Status:	Offline

Hi Pegi,

Yes, the diagram does seem to imply that you pull the clips down. There is nowhere near enough clearance under the coils to remove them in any sort of clean fashion. I can pop the front section of the clip off the tube but don't see any way of getting the back section off without a lot of jimmying.

The freon tube you speak of, is that the tube the clips are actually clipped to? If so, just how delicate are they? Honestly, I can't see any way of removing these silly clips without at least some contact with the lines. Then, getting the clips back on after replacing the element appears even more challenging.

Any hints tips or tricks?

Quote

Posted: Tue May 8th, 2007 06:19 pm

Quote

34^th Post

Poobah
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

Joined:	Wed Jan 18th, 2006
Location:	Toler, Kentucky USA
Posts:	1485
Flavorite Brew:	Iced Tea
Status:	Offline

After the clips are removed the element should drop down just a bit and come out, the clips hold it in place right at the bottom portion of the evap. coil....(there should also be a small piece of styrofoam holding the element as the 2 coils run up the side take it out and shimmy the element to the right alittle) those clips as Pegi said are to be released and pulled straight down........look at part 901 on the diagram (on left) before and you will see 4 evaporator clips that should twist and release the evap. coils to be moved if needed.....just be careful and take your time.....take a pic. if possible and post

____________________
This is the DAY that the LORD has made, REJOICE and be glad in it.....

Quote

Posted: Tue May 8th, 2007 06:22 pm

Quote

35^th Post

Poobah
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

Joined:	Wed Jan 18th, 2006
Location:	Toler, Kentucky USA
Posts:	1485
Flavorite Brew:	Iced Tea
Status:	Offline

The coils are delicate but are not going to break with alittle movement they will give quite a bit just don't force em

____________________
This is the DAY that the LORD has made, REJOICE and be glad in it.....

Quote

Posted: Tue May 8th, 2007 07:05 pm

Quote

36^th Post

whynotmi
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist

Joined:	Tue Dec 5th, 2006
Location:	Ypsilanti, Michigan USA
Posts:	29
Flavorite Brew:	newcastle
Status:	Offline

Ok. I've just spent 20 minutes trying to ease the first one out and no luck. My phone camera doesn't have the image quality needed to clearly show you what I'm working with but I'll post it anyway.I totally undestand how the element can be removed once the 2 clips are gone but for the life of me I can't figure out how to get the blinkin clips outta there.

I had hoped maybe the clip would bend enough to slip under the coils but no luck. These suckers are mighty strong considering they only hold up a little element. As I increased my "pull" on the clip the entire coil popped off of a different clip that holds it on to the back of the fridge wall. Fortunately I was pulling so carefully that the unit didn't move very much.

I realize there MUST be a way to get them out but I'm not finding it. I'm not about to yank away at them and damage the coil so anyone have any ideas? I thought of clipping the stupid things but there's really not a lot of room to get snips in. and even then I'd have no way of reattaching the element after replacing it.

I am sending a curse of fleas in the general direction of the clod who designed this system. :poison:

I can only imagine those of you who face this kind of design foolishness daily must shake your fists at the engineers who think not about the future accessiblity of the design.

Oh great gurus of appliances any more suggestions at this point? I'm sadly in need of a cool refreshing beverage and there's no way I'm gonna get one until this sucker is fixed.

Attachment: fridgepic.jpg (Downloaded 24 times)

Quote

Posted: Tue May 8th, 2007 08:15 pm

Quote

37^th Post

whynotmi
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist

Joined:	Tue Dec 5th, 2006
Location:	Ypsilanti, Michigan USA
Posts:	29
Flavorite Brew:	newcastle
Status:	Offline

Last post for today. Given that I couldn't get the heating element clips off and not even being sure I needed to replace the element I decided to change the tstat and turn the box on to see what happened. Well, imagine my surprise when the tstat connectors didn't match the connectors on my original! :shock:

Sooo, I checked it out and apparently maytag/amana/whoeverelsetheyown has this one replacement tstat for many models and you have to splice the connectors from the original tstat to the new tstat. Well, this is what I was told by the folks who sold me the part. OK. Not totally out of the question. So, I've spliced the old connectors to the new tstat and have put it in place. I'm going to go out and have a bit of dinner now since I'm hungry and ticked off and that's not a good combo for trying to fix something.

I'll let you know tomorrow how things look.

Cheers,

Newcastle Brian

Quote

Posted: Tue May 8th, 2007 09:08 pm

Quote

38^th Post

Poobah
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

Joined:	Wed Jan 18th, 2006
Location:	Toler, Kentucky USA
Posts:	1485
Flavorite Brew:	Iced Tea
Status:	Offline

Hopefully the stat was all that was wrong and after it cools down the heater will come on for you, and you won't have to change the element. That clip you said that came loose and let the coils come loose from the back is one of the clips I was talking about on the post about part 901 (4 of them) after a good coat of frost covers the coils turn the timer and watch for the heater to come on.....if so great.....if not it's heater time......good luck

____________________
This is the DAY that the LORD has made, REJOICE and be glad in it.....

Quote

Posted: Tue May 8th, 2007 09:08 pm

Quote

39^th Post

Poobah
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

Joined:	Wed Jan 18th, 2006
Location:	Toler, Kentucky USA
Posts:	1485
Flavorite Brew:	Iced Tea
Status:	Offline

Had to make a post just to get off 666 :poison:

.......

____________________
This is the DAY that the LORD has made, REJOICE and be glad in it.....

Quote

Posted: Tue May 8th, 2007 09:24 pm

Quote

40^th Post

Pegi
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

Joined:	Tue May 3rd, 2005
Location:	Wichita Falls, Texas USA
Posts:	13120
Flavorite Brew:	Sweet Iced Tea
Status:	Offline

LOL, good plan my friend, do not blame you there!!! :runover:

____________________
To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org

365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!

Quote

Current time is 09:52 am	Page: 1 2 3
ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Amana Bottom Freezer/Fridge Mod# BX21VW MFG NO P1326002WW	Top

Find Appliance Parts & Diagrams Here

Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.

365-day return policy on all parts ordered through this site!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:

"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly, spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."